Sycamore67

I gave up using glue and saw dust due to finishing issues. I use Timbermate to fill wood areas and it takes stain and finished well.

I do Intarsia and you must follow lines to get a good fit. In fact, a lot of times I try to stay just one side of the line.

I would check the watts of the various guns. They seem to range from 10 watts to 100 watts. I would not want the lower end. It really depends on how you use it. If it is just small dabs then one of the lower power ones is fine. I use it at times to build various jigs and need a higher power one.

There is one difference in finishing philosophy that is not mentioned. I am not making things for sale and in no rush. This lets me do things not in a rush and not many pieces to finish. If you are making things to sell, you have constraints on such things as time and cost.

I have used lacquer over Danish Oil for many years with no problems. You need to let the Danish oil dry before putting another coat on top. I Getting a good finish requires some patience and time.

I use Watco Danish Finish and dip in that. After it is completely dry, I will too coat with shellac or lacquer. I would not use mineral oil on anything but a child's puzzle or toy. I also do not use BLO as I do not like the hazards with rags or paper towels. But everyone has their own favorite finishing style.

That could be useful. I bookmarked it for future reference.

I have been to her demos and seminars and I really like her. I have all of her books and like the way they are written. I have also met Judy Roberts and attended seminars and have one of her books. There is no doubt that both are extremely talented but prefer Kathy Wise.

I have one of the foam sanders and not anywhere as good as a pneumatic. You can buy a similar diameter pneumatic drum sander for about $30 on ebay.

Red

I have made the reindeer from 3/4" to 6" . The larger reindeer on my smaller bandsaw which is 10" and has the Carter Stabilizer and 1/4" blade.

Some drill presses are built much tougher than others. Occasionally using one for sanding should not be an issue. I run my sanding mops, Mac mops, sanding drums a lot slower than 1700 rpm. Typically. I run 500-800 rpm. My drill press reads out the rpm. I also use an old Shopsmith Mark V and control the speed.

Welcome to the Village!

What blade are you using? I slow the saw way down when cutting 1/8" wood.

My Ottlite came with a 3x and 5x lens. I use the 3x most of the time as the 5x is too much. However, I have used it for some special things especially non scrolling. Initially, I bought a HF but my eyes were not comfortable with it and got tired after a few minutes. I do not have that issue with the Ottlite. But everyone's eyes are different.

I have an Ottlite that I got at Joann fabrics. They often have large per cent off coupons. The glass lens are very good quality with little distortion. They are a bit more expensive but worth it for me. Mine came with two lens.

It would be helpful to know what kind of puzzle and the kind of wood. I have used Transtint type dyes that are dissolved in alcohol on Poplar.

Where to start... The pattern is beautiful!! Can you tell us about the materials you used. Is it like a contact paper or vinyl? I found some on Amazon and may have to try it. I watched the video and your cutting skills are amazing. The corners are cut out so cleanly and with sharp details. Could you tell us what blade you used?

I have built something very similar to Rolf for My pneumatic drum sanders. It works well but I have a strong dust collector and am pulling around 650-700 cfm thru it. For somethings like sanding on the lathe or drill press, I have tried using a bell mouth hood on the end of the dust collection hose. It seems to work much more effectively than just the end of a hose. I read about it on the Australian forum woodworkforums.com

Dang Iggy....now I want that one. I have a real cheapy but your is nice. It is a nice toy/tool that you will learn to incorporate. I have wanted to make wooden business cards with one.

The Dustopper is an interesting development. the guy, Tom Huntley, that invented it and brought it to market did a great job. I have read a number of reviews and watched comparison videos. They all say similar things that The Dust Deputy does a slightly better job with fines but quite a bit more expensive. There is a thread on Sawmillcreek where the author answers some questions.

I seriously doubt that the corrosion of steels made now versus 50 or 100 years ago is any different. In fact, the capability of making steel today is significantly better. There have been so many advances in technology and quality control that it is amazing.

JTTHECLOCKMAN ...I understand you do not use a box fan and do not care. But why such a response. Nobody has a shop that is a clean room so we are all exposed to dust and other contaminants. The question is the amount and time of exposure there are OSHA standards for PEL (permissible exposure limits.). Having some understanding of the dust levels provides an idea of how bad the air is and what kind of prevention plan is needed. There are quite a few on this site who do use box fans and it might be helpful to them. Personally, I use a 5 hp cyclone system ducted throughout my shop, a Festool HEPA extractor on my smaller tools and scroll saw and a Jet air filter. I try to collect dust at the point of origin. If the air in your shop stays clean enough, there is no need for a mask.

I would be interested if anyone actually reads the links I have provided. Please let me know what you think of the information.

There have been several recent threads about dust collection/air filters with widely different viewpoints. I posted a couple of links that had actual data Box Fan Air Filter DIY Box Fan Filter Both of these show actual data on how these box fan filters work. One thing that I noted is that it takes quite a while for them to filter the air. During that time, you will be breathing the dust. I really wanted to try to answer some questions for myself about how well collecting dust at the source works to improve air quality. That is, collecting it above and below the table on the scroll saw. I looked for some meters to measure the dust levels. The best one out there is a Dylos meter but these start at around $200. There is some very good information about shop dust collection and measurement on the Australian Woodworking Forum. They also mention in some of the posts a cheaper alternative. While not as accurate, it will work to show relative differences in PM1.0, PM2.5 and PM10. I ordered the following one on ebay and when it comes will try doing some tests. They run about $40.