Sycamore67

I use a Festool vac on mine and is quiet and only runs when the saw is on.

Several people have posted their home made systems on the forum that work really well. One advantage that the home made systems have is they have larger tubes with greater airflow. I have included a picture of mine. However, this is a good solution if you do not have time to build your own. I think it is a better solution than using a fan to blow the dust away.

Could you describe the flutter a bit more. Is it side to side, front to back? Did you check for squareness at both extremes of arm travel....ie up and down. Another thing might be to check the blade where it come through the table. Check position side to side and front to back with the arm all the way up, down and in between. Does it stay the same or move around. Given that you find no play in the arm or motor, maybe something is bent or out of alignment. Lastly, is the flutter caused by vibration and not due to some kind of alignment issue. Good Luck

The Sawstop issue is completely different than the original topic. Bottom line is that the Sawstop is a well made solid saw with a safety feature. If you want one buy it and if you hate it, buy something different. I could care less. I do care when people on a forum start talking about guards and riving knives and make comments about it maybe safer to not use them and how you can be safe without them. I brought this up because I want people to hear the other side. It is your fingers and hands and how you protect them is up to you. But, just hope that you are not one of the about 38,000 people a year that visit the emergency room. I asked my hand surgeon if he had experienced table saw injuries. His response was that he had seen too many.

"I won't get into the patent thing but will say this, something else went down with Bosch that is not public." JTTHECLOCKMAN I am very interested and perhaps you can tell us what happened that was not public since you seem to know. I thought that the records were public but it sounds like I am wrong.

The statistics were for the CPSC (Consumer Products Safety Commission) and had nothing to do with Sawstop. The number of accidents is alarming. Yes, the lawsuit was about money. Someone spent a lot of time and money to develop the technology and had a patent. I believe that we should protect intellectual property. I have been involved and have my name on a number of patents. My company routinely used other companies who infringed on them. Is it wrong to protect a patent? When I dreamed up something and got a patent, you bet I wanted it protected.

I just want to add my voice to this. I have been using a table saw for 40+ years. I am too experienced and too safety aware to use either a guard or a riving knife. I can pay attention 100% to everything and will not get hurt because I am just too good. NOT…..Foolish thoughts on my part. I almost always have the riving knife in my saw and only remove it for cutting dados. I use the guard when I am ripping. These things only make sense. I have been using a table saw a long time and probably use it every day in my shop. I study was done a few years ago by the CPSC and found the following – 1. There are about 38,000 emergency room visits for table saw accidents each year. 2. The majority of these happen while ripping a piece of wood. 3. 65% of these accidents happened with no riving knife 4. 66% happen with no blade guard. 5. 40% of these happen with a kick back. I worked in a very dangerous environment of a steelmaking shop where we melted scrap to make steel and the steel got up to over 3000 F. Safety was a primary concern but we had some many people who did not think they needed to wear all of their protective equipment or follow the rules because they had been there so long. In this environment, there was no choice but to follow the rules as there were consequences if you did not. In your own shop, you can do as you please. However, suggesting to people that it is OK to not use a riving knife or a guard because one has a lot of experience or can pay strict attention is foolhardy. But, I wish you guys good luck. I think it is really a bad idea to tell people that you can be safer by not using your riving knife or guards. Why would one say it is more dangerous to use a guard????? I probably will take a lot of heat for the above but that is OK. I am getting to be an old codger and my mind and reflexes are not what they used to be. I do not want to be one of the statistics at the emergency room. If you want to increase your risks, please keep doing what you are doing. By the way, a few years ago I bought a SawStop PCS cabinet saw because of the safety features. It is a great saw with the fit and finish and the accuracy. There are many who say that using such a saw will cause one to be less safe as you do not worry about getting injured. That is just not true….I bought it because getting older, I wanted another level of safety. I have no idea why anyone would not use their riving knife. Mine is not in the way and does not cause any issue except when cutting a groove or dado. To each their own and as I said Good Luck

Interesting but price is too high.

The majority of my blades are Freud. I have several including a glue line rip, fine cross cut and a Premier Fusion. I use the rip blade the most. Just for info, I am using these on a cabinet saw. It is a bit different using them on a portable saw and you would want the thin kerf variety.

I made a clamp for compound cutting and posted it sometime ago. It was spring loaded and add sand paper on the inside. The springs make certain to keep things held properly even after making a cut. I added a couple of knobs to hold it better. I made a couple of different sizes

I use my Dremel with a flex shaft and that fits my hand.

The phone is a great tool. But like all tools can be used poorly. It is not the phone that is the problem but the person using it.

Toys and puzzles are great things and compound cutting. If you are new to the saw start with something easier. The puzzles by Judy Peterson are great and kids love them. Intarsia can be difficult and you need good cutting skills. You will also make scrap like the rest of us when things do not work out.

Sorry about the water and hope you do not have much damage. Hope your tools and valuables were put up high.

Scrollerpete...how thick was the wood you were cutting. It is difficult to understand how a FD UR will do better in thick wood than the Polar. Please notice how short the teeth are on a UR blade.

What were you cutting that the FD UR blades were better?

Awhile ago, I did my own test comparing the FD Polar, Pegas MG and the PS Super Sharps. The PS Super Sharps cut much faster and easier than the other two although more expensive. The Pegas Modified Geometry did well and was better than the FD Polar. The test was done was done with thick oak and was just a straight cut. I have attached a picture which shows the teeth on several different blades. It is interesting to me that the FD Polar and Super Sharp look so similar but cut very differently. Of course, your results will vary.

I do not think that a ultra reverse is right for this as you are not interested in chip out on the bottom. A better choice is a skip tooth blade like the FD Polar. The short teeth on the UR do not do a good job of clearing the sawdust like the skip tooth blade. When doing thick wood you need to go slow and let the blade cut without forcing it. Also, keep a sharp blade in your saw. Lastly, with thick cuts the grain lines can push your blade one way or the other. I believe the absolutely best blade is the PS Woods Super Sharps. But they are much more expensive. Be certain to check that your blade is perpendicular to the table. Good Luck

Yes , I have it on my Hegner and it works fine for me. Reaching back there does not bother me but I do not do fret work.

This is something you have to try out and see what works best. Try scrolling while sitting at different heights. Try tipping the saw different amounts. It depends so much on the saw, the chair and the person that there is no way to know without trying it.

I am not familiar with the saw. But if you posted a picture of the saw and broken part someone may be able to help.

I have a Festool vac hooked to my Hegner and have posted it here. Yes, it is pricey but low noise and it is a HEPA rated vac and not just a HEPA filter. For my hearing and lungs it is worth it. Besides the vac you have to collect the dust close to the blade.

I use a circular magnifying light. I do not attach it to the saw as there small vibrations that make using the magnifier difficult.

I use a cheap remote control from Menards and have one that was less than $20 for my Ridgid vac.

I have an 18" Hegner on their stand. I have the back leg raised about an inch. I scroll sitting with an adjustable height chair with a back rest. I also have a foot stool. I have back pain (spinal fusion) but find this arrangement works for me.