Sycamore67

The thing that is really great about these type of systems is that they catch dust at the source. In my mind, this is one of the most important principles of dust collection. I have seen pictures of systems peep use and blow the dust away from their saws and the try to use an air filter to get it. The fine dust can spread everywhere and hang in the air for long times. No matter what tool you are using, the best is to catch the dust at the source. This becomes increasingly important with fine dust from sanding or from the scroll saw.

I think getting good dust collection on a scroll saw is always a good thing. The dust is very fine and not good to breath. I think this setup is very good but waiting for the next great idea.

It looks air like the ones several of us have built and posted. I built mine a number of years,ago for my Hegner using a Festool vacuum.

I have at least 20 different blades. I use different blades for different type of projects. I use different blades for Intarsia, compound cuts, puzzles etc. I also have different brands as I like to compare blades. Since I typically cut thicker woods, it is easy to tell when they are needing to be changed.

I use an Ottlite magnifier. It has the circular fluorescent tube and came with two glass lens....3X and 5X. The lens are large with good optics to see your work. I had a smaller, cheaper lens setup that gave me a headache. For me, I do not like attaching a light or magnifier to my saw. When I did that with my Hegner even small vibrations caused the light to move and gave me eye issues. I think each person should try a coupe of setups and see which works best and most comfortable on their eyes. This is probably really important with us older folks whose vision has deteriorated.

For more delicate work, I like the Mac Mop at Klingspor Woodworking. You can turn the speed down with the most delicate.

I have always been into woodworking and have a fully equipped shop and have made cabinets, furniture and lots of other things. I also have had serious back problems (screws, links, wires, computer, etc in my back) and needed something I could do in my shop sitting down. I was given a cheap pin end saw and tried it. I liked it but the saw was terrible. I looked on Craigslist and found a Hegner and have been happy since then. My shop has expanded with other tools to support the scroll saw.

My favorite airplane is the A-10 Warthog. I was amazed when I actually stood next to one and the gun. The gun took up most of the airplane. I made this model mainly out of Red Oak, Ash and turned the engines from Aspen. The model is about 12" long.

I am sorry but piping down a dust collector does not really get you much. At most a dust collector gives you 8" or so of suction. Closing the end down only increases the suction by a very small amount and nothing close to a shop vac. I am trying to explain this so people do not get the wrong idea. I am not trying to be argumentative but trying to get others to understand. A shop vac has almost 10 times the suction of a dust collector. I have a very powerful cyclone dust collector for my shop. It is a 5 hp and will suck 1800 cfm. This is actual measured flow and not some wild manufacturer claim. However, for my scroll saw and some other things in my shop, the vac does a better job. The vac I am using for my scroll saw has a suction of around 90" and flow rate about 125 cfm. Just to be clear about suction, the inches refer to how high a water column can be pulled up. One can measure it with a water u-tube manometer. The photo is an example of one with blue dyed water that I used to measure suction of a dust collector.

I think using a dust collector for this application is not the best. A dust collector only has 6-8" of suction while a vacuum has 70-90"of suction and will work much better for the small pipe size and all the elbows and stuff.

I use Bob Smith epoxy that I buy on Amazon. I use small pill cups to mix the epoxy and have a small scale to get the ratio correct.

As a metalllurgist, I do not think it makes a difference. The temperature of the bandsaw blades do not normally get high enough to make a difference. When tensioning the bandsaw blades you normally stay in the elastic region and if you stretch it , it will come back when you release the tension. Of course, if you really over tension a smaller blade on your bandsaw, you could damage it.

I guess I do not care how people identify themselves. Call me. ANONYMOUS

Many times, I will use clear shellac as a first coat and it works as a sealer and dries fast. I do not care for using some of the words I have seen show up recently and in the second post in this thread. Just not needed IMHO.

The only good plywood that I get from a big box store is Aruaco Ply. I buy mine at Menards. I do not use it for scrolling but it has good faces and solid ply inside.

I have read about this pop up on several forums and it is associated with something you have gotten on your phone, tablet or computer. I have also read discussions about ad blockers and the effect on a site's revenue. Several have stated that because of the ad blockers they are considering if they can keep going because of the loss of revenue. They are also considering limiting people who are guests and not letting them see some content.

I prefer using blue tape on the wood and spraying the pattern piece with 3M77. I find that on some woods, getting spray adhesive on the wood at times will interfere with finishing. I do not use a dead man switch. It is uncomfortable for me to have to keep a foot near the switch. Maybe because I do not do fretwork, I do not need to turn my saw on and off as much. But, if it works for you, that is good. I think it is a good idea to try different blades to see how they do with splintering or fuzzies on the back side. IMHO, different woods react differently and may need different blades. I have tried the reverse tooth blades but prefer the Ultra Reverse style ad use the Flying Dutchman brand. There is so much variation in how people work, their saws and ability. The best advice is to experiment with various techniques, blades and positions.... find what works best for you. My best piece of advice is to find a good chair or stool that makes you comfortable and gives good support.

Another for 3M77. !!!!!!

Ouch ?? I guess after awhile you will recognize different members and how they respond. Each has their own personality and way to respond. Instead of saying ouch, just ignore some responses. In this day, writing a response or comment is done quickly and many times without rereading or considering how a comment will be taken. Yes, sometimes a comment might be worded differently or people read it different than was intended. I think much of this is just the fast nature of the way people respond to things on the internet.

The 3-1 oil should be fine and is what I use on my Hegner. It is just for the bushings and any oil that will get in there will be fine.

If the saw is running well, I would not take it apart. The Hegner saws are well built and run for years. I would put a couple of drops of oil on it and start making sawdust. I have a 1996 Hegner, and just a couple drops of oil once in awhile. It runs perfectly. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Thanks for sharing the pattern.

Lacquer from India comes from a bug based on the following from Wikipedia. Chinese lacquer comes from certain tree saps "The term lacquer originates from the Sanskritword lākshā (लाक्षा) representing the number 100,000, which was used for both the lac insect(because of their enormous number) and the scarlet resinous secretion, rich in shellac, that it produces that was used as wood finish in ancient India and neighbouring areas.[1]"

Very nice box and inlay. I am waiting for them to come back but here it will be May until I see them. I watch the migration maps to see how far north they have come but have not moved much from their winter home. I also watch the Monarch migration maps. They have just left their winter home in Mexico.

I bought an Ottlite with 2 lenses. I looked at others and the optical quality was not as good. The one I have is easy to see thru with a fairly large area which is in focus. More expensive...yes but easier on my eyes. I bought my light at Joann Fabrics and used one of their 40% off coupons. I also found that for me, I did not like the light attached to the saw. The vibrations from the saw in the news cause eye strain. I mount the light on the work bench next to my saw.