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Sycamore67

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Everything posted by Sycamore67

  1. Sycamore67
    One comment.... when you buy a pattern it is many times for private use only. You can not give out copies to others or sell a product made from the pattern. Just because you bought the pattern their maybe restrictions on the use.
  2. Sycamore67
    I think that if it is copyrighted then the answer is no. If it is someone's pattern, I think the right thing is to ask first. If you are making one for personal use, I would still ask. If you are making it to sell, then absolutely need to ask. Of course, one could just put a copyright symbol on everything you post.
  3. Sycamore67
    I will not use MDF on my scroll saw due to the dust issues. It gets into everything and on everything including your clothes. Even with a dust mask you still have on your clothes and unless you take them off you spread it everywhere. If you want to use it, good for you. But not me.....
  4. Sycamore67
    I do not typically do fret work but do cut 1/8" BB for some projects and use a FD UR #3. For Intarsia I use a FD Polar. Recently, I tried PS Super Sharps for compound cuts and liked them but expensive. I have tried just reverse type blades but find no advantage over the ultra reverse. I also think that why you are cutting may make a difference in terms of how fast you want to cut and the costs. For instance, you need to cut 100 puzzles. Neither of these impact my blade choice.
  5. Sycamore67
    It is very difficult to discuss favorite blades without saying what you are cutting. If you are doing fret work you will need a different blade than for Intarsia.
  6. Sycamore67
    Too much adhesive gumming things up. You have adhesive on the shelf paper and spraying adhesive. With small teeth you are clearing the teeth on each stroke.
  7. Sycamore67
    I love my Hegner and it is 22 years old and still runs great. There are some who like them and others than do not like them and those who think it needs changes. It is a proven design, very tough machine that runs forever and parts available.
  8. Sycamore67
    I think the Mac Mops are the best. Mine has a 1/4" arbor. You can adjust how aggressive by changing speeds.
  9. Sycamore67
    I am uncertain about what you are asking. Are you talking about the sanding mops or Mac mops or something else. Also, exactly what will be the main use.
  10. Sycamore67
    IMHO the Festool Sanders are the best out there for low vibration and dust collection. The ergonomics and vibration are very important to me as I have had both wrists rebuilt and need to protect them. Are they expensive.. Yes. But for me well worth it. The price range for Sanders varies from the HF to the Festool at over $200. The other important thing is what you are going to use it on.
  11. Sycamore67
    Use shellac as a sealer/primer and the paint. The shellac will dry quickly.
  12. Sycamore67
    One reason for having the two legs in front versus one is for tipping. The saw is more stable with two legs in front. If you had one in front, there would be more chance for it to tip as you pushed on the work piece or the saw. I looked at my saw and stand and found that I would have to sit very close to it for my legs to hit on the stand. I have a 3/4" shim under the back single leg to tip the saw slightly forward. I have read many comments about others doing a similar thing. With it tipped forward, there is even less chance that someone's legs would hit the stand. While this may be an interesting discussion, the three legged Hegner stand has worked well for many people for more than 20 years. Of course, anyone with a Hegner is free to mount their saw backwards if it makes it better for them.
  13. Sycamore67
    Not certain I quite understand the comment as the Hegner stand has three legs.
  14. Sycamore67
    Since you do not own a Hegner, I am surprised at your conjectures about it. I own a Hegner with a stand and have absolutely no problems with the stand. I have the stand slightly elevated on the back leg so it tips forward a bit. I also have a foot rest to put my feet on.
  15. Sycamore67
    I prefer the FD UR blades...ultra reverse as they are not as grabby.
  16. Sycamore67
    I guess I am a bit different. I looked at the HF magnifier light and my eyes did not like it. I ended up with an Ottlite brand and much more comfortable for my eyes especially when using it for longer periods of time.
  17. Sycamore67
    To me, this is not a hobby but more a business. We constantly hear about how many you have to make and how you have to keep up with things. You make it sound like a mad dash to get them cut and ready to go. I enjoy this as a hobby and really have no interest in trying to sell things. I enjoy making new things and trying new things. Making the same thing or type of things over and over would be redundant and boring at least for me. I also would have a difficult time dealing with some of the people that you describe selling to. When I want to make a little cash, I just go out and do some engineering consulting and can make a very nice income in just a couple of days. But, to each their own.
  18. Sycamore67
    I buy my poplar and oak from a sawmill in lower Michigan. The poplar is $2.50 bdf and redoak is $3.25 bdf. I cannot stand to pay the prices at Lowe's or HomeDepot. I also can buy quarter sawn red oak at good price.
  19. Sycamore67
    The one being discussed here is the sanding mop. Tgiro has a great example of how to make them. I made them in a very similar manner and wore out multiple blades cutting them. Can you save some money....yes. But, I just buy the refills. The second picture that octoolguy posted is a Mac Mop. I use it for more delicate work while a sanding mop for heavier work. You can also vary how they work by changing speeds. My drill press has infinitely variable speed by turning a knob so easy to find best setup for each sanding operation.
  20. Sycamore67
    Doing something is better than nothing. But..... Ha Ha Ha
  21. Sycamore67
    I think they are pretty reasonably priced given the price of the Klingspor Gold and difficulty making them. Things like drilling the hole in 48 strips of cloth backed abrasive and cutting the 1/4" wide strips on both ends of 48 pieces is also not fun. After you have made a couple and compare them to the pre made ones, I would like to hear your review.
  22. Sycamore67
    I have done both. I have made several from the Klingspor gold which is what they make them out of. It takes a lot of time and effort to make them especially cutting the thin strips on the ends. You need to use really good cloth backed sand paper to make them. Now, I just buy them.....too much of a hassle.
  23. Sycamore67
    I use Danish oil on puzzles. I put the pieces in a zip loc bag with the Danish Oil and shake them up. I take them out, dry with paper towel and put on wire rack to dry. Some sanding may be needed if your finish raises the grain. The one below was done with two different colors of Danish Oil.
  24. Sycamore67
    I agree with using a #3 or #5 blade. I use FD Polar blades. I really think that you need to try some different blades and find out how they work. There is nothing better than getting personal experience and see what happens with various blades.
  25. Sycamore67
    My dad was an aircraft mechanic at the start of WW2 and taught me to use the ball peen hammer method. As a kid I really did not understand what it meant to be an aircraft mechanic but quickly learned that everything is done exactly right or it is redone until perfect.
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