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stoney

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Everything posted by stoney

  1. stoney
    I'll just add don't buy any saw that you can't try one out first. This applies to first,and even second or third time buyers. Just because one scroll saw cost more than another doesn't necessarily mean it's the right saw for you. I learned this lesson the hard way.
  2. stoney
    Dave I have used several methods that have already been mentioned. I'll just say I like using painters tape under the pattern if I want to apply a finish as soon as I get finished and also on hardwood cuttings that I apply packing tape over the pattern. If that is not an issue than applying the pattern directly to the wood and using mineral spirits for removal also works fine.
  3. stoney
    Dave, it never ceases to amaze me how dumb some tool manufacturers can be. Some of the small deficiencies in their products could be eliminated by just having the people that use the tool do the testing for them. A flush mount table insert isn't rocket science. Any scroll saw owner operator could determine a issue immediately. As for what scroll saw I would suggest, if possible take some for a test drive. The best question to ask a scroll saw owner is what they don't like about the current saw they own but,I wouldn't put to much stock in what some scroll saw owners say about the saws they own because,I think some tend to defend their saws because it reflects on a decision they made that might not have been the right one. I own a Hegner Multi-Max 22V that I have some issues that could be easily corrected by Hegner, so even high priced saws have some design flaws. You can look at my review (in the scroll saw reviews on this forum) and see what I mean. Good Luck!
  4. stoney
    I have had both types and like what has already been said they both have advantages. Convenience, and infinite speed settings,but more costly to repair with one, and less convenient but simple, reliable less costly to repair speed setting on the other. I used a Delta P20 for many years and didn't find manually changing speeds to be that big a deal.
  5. stoney
    You are very welcome Frank. Yea buy some of the larger size spiral blades and see if they do the job for you. My main scroll saw is a Hegner 22v multi-max and I can't get any amount of fretwork cut with the tiny blades like you have been using without a lot of breakage. I can cut much faster with the larger blades and still maintain the amount of detail required.
  6. stoney
    I bought my first electric saw from Sears in about 1956 when I was 12 years old. I think it cost about $20.00 It didn't really work very well. It just vibrated the pin type blade up and down a little bit. If I remember right they called it a jig saw not a scroll saw. My first project was a corner shelf I made for my mother. I didn't buy my first scroll saw until 1991. So I guess I have been scrolling now for about 24 years and seriously since 2005 when I retired. Edit: I just did a google search and the first saw I mentioned was call a Craftsman Magnetic scroll saw. It used an electromagnet instead a motor.
  7. stoney
    I have done quite a bit of cutting with spirals doing custom portrait work. I can tell you from my experience that larger blades both flat and spirals in larger sizes have lasted much longer without breaking. Looking at the pattern in your experiment the smallest spiral I would have used would have been a #1 Flying Dutchman new spiral. Most of that pattern could be cut with as large as a #5 spiral blade with no loss of detail. What I have found is the larger blades withstand the flexing and twisting longer, and the squeezing in the blade clamps for a longer period of time. To me it stands to reason that with a larger blade there is more material to absorb the fatique created in its use. JMHO
  8. stoney
    I can not even imagine the amount of heat from friction that would be created attempting to cut ceramic tile with a scroll saw. Ceramic tile is generally cut with a wet saw. My scroll saw now cost north of $1500.new I wouldn't use my scroll saw to cut ceramic tile any more than I would try cutting glass with a chain saw. JMHO
  9. stoney
    I just read the post by Edward inquiring about the best printer to buy. BUY? They should give the darn things away! I think the cost of printer ink is criminal. I think manufacturers could give their printers away and still make plenty on what they charge for ink. They must fill the cartridges with a eye dropper. They must only put just a few drops in each cartridges. What a joke! Staples pays $3.00 each for the empty cartridges when you return them. Really!!! The cartridges have to be the most expensive part of the package don't they? Oh, and for buying from second or third party sellers,be careful they often sell ink cartridges that are close or even beyond their expiration date. Yea, it don't take very long for that few drops of ink to evaporate. Boy, that really tired me out! I think I better go take a nap. LOL
  10. stoney
    I had to stand on my feet for a great deal of my working career so I enjoy being able to sit while enjoying this hobby. My table is chest height and tilted forward a few degrees. I usually sit unless I am cutting very large fretwork. I also have a very comfortable adjustable height shop stool with a back rest.
  11. stoney
    I don't believe I would attempt to cut ceramic tile with a scroll saw as they are not designed for that purpose. I think it would be very destructive to the saw even if you could find a blade that would cut. The ceramic dust would be very abrasive and possibly damage the moving parts.
  12. stoney
    Your project turned out great Sparkey! I use spirals with great success when the need arises. Some projects would be impossible to cut using flat blades. One type of project that comes to mind is fretwork of such dimensions that make it impossible to turn. Charles Dearing does some huge fretwork and he uses spirals exclusively on every project he cuts. I will sometimes use spirals and flat blades on the same project. I think the problem some have with spirals is they give up to quickly, as they do take a little practice and patience to get used to.
  13. stoney
    I also use a variety of finishes but one I use quite often is an aerosol clear acrylic finish made by Krylon. I like the satin the best but it is available in gloss as well, The best feature is it dries super fast,10 minutes or less providing the humidity isn't to high. I generally apply several thin coats lightly sanding between coats as necessary. What this all means is you can have a project completely finished in much less time than some of the other available finishes. It works great for me every time I use it.
  14. stoney
    Oh yea. Anyone that has scrolled, especially fretwork for any length of time has had similar things happen. My problem is if I try to salvage the work piece it drives me nuts knowing it had to be repaired and wasn't perfect, but that is just me. Believe me I have made my share of designer firewood but I still love this hobby. Sometimes no matter how careful we try to be sh*# happens.
  15. stoney
    Love the story and you did a great job on the plaque Dick. I like you get very much enjoyment making personal gifts for family, friends, and occasionally for myself.
  16. stoney
    My favorite is number 3 . How true, how true. That is why they call it designer firewood, and I have created my share. LOL
  17. stoney

    Nativity

    stoney replied to ONELUNG's topic in Bragging Rights

    Nice job on your ornaments Jerry! Merry Christmas to you and yours.
  18. stoney
    I have cut quite a few trivets from Corian with great success. I use Flying Dutchman polar blades, primarily #5's I cover the pattern with packing tape and dial down the blade speed. To anyone that would like to try it I would recommend practicing on a scrap area until you have determined the right combination of blade speed and feed rate.
  19. stoney
    I would not recommend using any type of enamel finish on a trivet you actually intend to use. If you want a shiny finish I would suggest using a material such Corian or other brands of counter top material. I think penetrating types of oil finishes work good for trivets but will not result in a glossy finish that you seem to desire.
  20. stoney

    I'm new here

    stoney replied to stoney's topic in Introductions

    Thank you everyone for the warm welcome. I will be spending a little time getting antiquated with this forum and how everything works. My first love is scrolling but I will be busy for a while building some nightstands for my son. I will be back posting as soon as I can.
  21. stoney
    Hello, Just joined the forum. I have been scrolling for somewhere around 14 years. I live in West Michigan. I have been retired for about 10 years now and enjoying it very much.
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