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stoney

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Everything posted by stoney

  1. stoney
    That is great Bruce. I started my grandson when he was about 9. Starting a youngster on a scroll saw is about as good a way to introduce them to woodworking that there is. It gives them a sense of accomplishment in a relatively safe manner. It is good to start them with simple patterns and easy to cut material with no sharp turns required. I hope they like scrolling and become proficient at it. Enjoy.
  2. stoney
    Happy New Year from West Michigan!
  3. stoney
    Just curious as to where the Seyco saw is built does anyone know at this point?
  4. stoney
    Yeah Bobby and all you forum members I wish you a very Merry Christmas. Be safe if you are traveling for the holidays.
  5. stoney
    Hi Rolf those are some great looking ornaments. What kind of material are they cut from? I'll have to try some 2/0 Olsen blades and see if they will work in my Hegner 22v multi-max. Thanks for your post.
  6. stoney
    Thanks Dan for that information. Yeah by what I see in your pictures I would probably use a #1 or maybe even a #3 FD-UR or FD-SR but like you say that's me. Someone once posted that Hegner scroll saws don't do well with 2/0 blades so I am glad I never felt the need to use them. Thanks again for your response I really appreciate it.
  7. stoney
    You have some beautiful work there Dan. Now I have a question. Did you feel that the fine details required the 2/0 blades or are they what you feel comfortable with?
  8. stoney
    There has been much discussion about 2/0 blades and how some scrollers use them. I have been scrolling for many years and have never owned or used them. I realize there must be a type of project that requires their use. I am curious to see some of the projects that have been cut with them.
  9. stoney
    Yeah Frank the scrap box can fill up in a hurry. My problem is what I don't throw in the scrap box. I make allot of small toys for underprivileged kids so I have a problem tossing anything away I think I might use for a toy. My small piece pile would look to some people like the stuff should be in the scrap box. Used blades are another thing I tend to hang onto. I tend to hang on to blades that are still cutting well but always seem to install a new blade at the beginning of a project. They also tend to add up. LOL
  10. stoney
    If I read your comment correctly are you suggesting that the scroll saws switch interrupts the neutral and also the earth (ground) and if not what is your point? It is pretty common knowledge that the best protection is obtained by a complete physical disconnection from the power source ie. unplugged.
  11. stoney
    I looked up the Proxxon 28700 switch and see it is a 2 pole switch which should work fine for your application. As far as your concern about the saw being turned on if plugged directly into a outlet as long as it is your saw I don't see a problem. I think if it was me if I decided to get rid of the saw I would just reconnect the switch before putting it up for sale and all should be good.
  12. stoney
    I have the Shop Vac air cleaner in my shop. I also have a box fan/filter set up and between the two they work pretty well. I might add I also wear a face mask when creating dust. For those that have the Shop Vac 103000 unit they have a filter kit 80117062 on ebay right now for $19.98 including shipping. That is the best price I have ever seen for that kit and I ordered one.
  13. stoney
    I just finished cutting some 1 1/4" white ash with FD-UR #7 blades. I would also suggest covering at least the top with packing tape. Yeah, I found out cutting thicker hardwoods is a whole new ballgame. Something else that seems to help is stopping the cut momentarily every so often that allows for the sawdust a chance to clear which also seems to help keep the blade cooler. Also like others have said patience is a requirement for cutting thick hardwoods with a scroll saw. Good luck Frank.
  14. stoney
    It is true that there are many different blades to choose from but here is my take on them. Blade retailers usually charge the same unit price no matter which size from the smallest to the largest size of any particular blade type. The smaller the blade the easier they flex, bend, and break so I tend to use the smallest sizes only when the project demands them. I think you will find you can cut, as I did, some quite fine detail without having to resort to the smallest blades. As you try different blades you will probably finally settle into just a few that you will use most of the time. Good Luck
  15. stoney
    I would use no smaller than a FD- UR or SR #3 blade on that pattern. Just wondering if it came out well with a FD#3 SR why do you feel the need to cut with a smaller blade?
  16. stoney
    Well I'll put my two cents worth in. I have been scrolling steady now for about 16 years and I have cut plenty of patterns with fine detail and have never felt the need to use a 2/0 scroll saw blade especially in hardwoods. A # 1 blade is the smallest I use and most of the time it is a #3 or larger. Trying to make very tight turns in 1/2" or thicker hardwood with a 2/0 blade just isn't necessary IMHO.
  17. stoney
    If your inserts already have a hole in them using a forstner bit probably won't work anyway as it will not stay centered. I cut plastic with FD polar blades run at slow speed with packing tape on top to help cool the blade to prevent the plastic from melting. Works for me.
  18. stoney
    Thanks to everyone who has responded. I now have the information I was looking for. I'll have to order some Pegas blades and give them try.
  19. stoney
    Just wondering if Pegas Modified Geometry blades cut thicker hardwoods better than Flying Dutchman ultra reverse blades. I have never used Pegas blades before but I'm always interested in better products. I have been cutting some projects in 1 1/4" white ash. Is there anyone out there that has used both of these blades?
  20. stoney
    Well I might as well add my two cents worth. I think part of the problem some are having is blade size and yes the amount of tension. For stand up puzzles I don't feel the need to use the very small blades as they are very non forgiving. It is much easier to over push or flex a very small blade. On most of the stand up puzzles I cut the pieces tend to push together from shear gravity so the teeny tiny blades are not necessary. Also a larger kerf helps allow for operator error. JMHO
  21. stoney
    Well I was getting low on spiral blades so I ordered some Olsen flat end spirals. I have been using Flying Dutchman new spirals for quite a while but thought I would try some flat ended ones. Much to my surprise when I tried installing one I found that the ends of the blade were not parallel to each other. Yes they do save a little time not having to untwist the ends of the blade but you still have to do an adjustment to align the two ends. I guess I was expecting to just grab a blade and stick it in the blade holders tension it a go to work. I guess I'll just go back to the FD new spirals I like them much better anyhow they cut much smoother and are easier to control.
  22. stoney
    I have always used packaging tape for the lubricating qualities of the glue to cool the blade which tends to make them stay sharper and last longer. Depending on the brand and quality some packaging tape can have to much tackiness to apply directly to the wood and be very difficult to remove. As a result may remove wood fibers. I primarily use packaging tape when cutting hardwoods such as oak, cherry, hard maple etc. When I use packaging tape it is always applied over the pattern.
  23. stoney
    What I have found is all painters tapes are not created equally. I bought a bargain brand once and only once. Since then I have used only good quality brands with good success. The best feature of painters tape for me is off with the tape on with the finish no waiting for the paint thinner or mineral spirits to dry. Another thing I have discovered is a heat gun or hand held hairdryer works great to loosen tape or labels that are hard to remove.
  24. stoney
    I don't know what year Hegner started installing the front tension release but a saw without it would be a pain for fretwork cutting. I don't know if I would buy the new Jet until there are some reviews from owners with many, many hours of use. By the way I would like to see higher end scroll saw manufacturers install hour meters as standard equipment. That would help establish a base for value of a used scroll saw.
  25. stoney
    I quite often use Krylon Clear Acrylic usually in the satin finish.
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