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stoney

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Everything posted by stoney

  1. stoney
    I have used blade clamp screws with and without the rotating end and firmly believe the rotating end is a much better design especially for smaller blades that are more susceptible to distortion from the rotation at the end of the screw. Also I hate to defend Hegner blade clamps (because I consider them antiquated) but you would be very hard pressed to bend one no matter how hard you tightened the screw. In fact you can actually squeeze the end of a small blade to the point of making it more susceptible to breaking right at the clamp. Just wondering why other makes don't use a stronger material for their blade clamps.
  2. stoney
    I don't know Randy but I would suspect Bushton would be forgiven for using a better designed product for their blade clamp screws even if they had to import them. Don't get me wrong I am all for Made in USA products but it isn't feasible in all situations. Very few consumer products have 100% american made content anymore. JMHO
  3. stoney
    If I understand the issue with Hawk blade clamps it appears to best solution would be for Bushton to start using a rotating tip thumb screw in their clamps. JMHO Please correct me if I am wrong.
  4. stoney
    I for one am really enjoying this type of thread for the frank discussion that has resulted. I used to get pretty tired of some of the defending to the max of any scroll saw the was being discussed or reviewed just because that happened to be the brand that was purchased. I have always appreciated an unbiased, honest, evaluation of any product I might be considering. Thanks to all that have contributed to this discussion.
  5. stoney
    I have not heard or read of any explanation presented by General Int. why they stopped marketing the Excalibur. My point is there appears to be very little Company commitment to the products they market or the customers they sell them to. The fact that more and more expensive products and support for them is being diminished by many companies should be a concern for any prospective buyer.
  6. stoney
    With companies running all over the world chasing the cheapest way to make a product I for one am not optimistic that anything you buy will be supported with the trend to maximize profit at all cost and the customer be dammed. It used to be major brands relied on their reputation for future sales growth now very few seem to subscribe to that business model anymore. The name General International should tell you something. It wouldn't surprise me to hear they are moving operations to some other unstable third world country.
  7. stoney
    Interesting I can defiantly see where they would be useful for outside trim applications.
  8. stoney
    The first thing I would do is print the flag on card stock and then I would probably adhere that to 1/8 inch baltic birch with super 77.
  9. stoney
    Turning a aerosol can upside down to clear the nozzle is a waste. The manufacturer is happy with those that use that method as they sell more product. I quit doing that along time ago. Like others have said there is a better way.
  10. stoney
    I have quite a few Delta tools but I would definitely check on replacement parts as Delta has a habit of discontinuing support anytime they feel like it. I had a Delta P20 scroll saw which was a very good saw they just up and decided to quite supporting. I guess they expect you to just junk the tools they don't feel like supporting. Needless to say I won't be buying anymore Delta tools.
  11. stoney
    It sounds like you are having an issue very common to those just getting familiar with using a scroll saw to cut thicker material. As all ready stated in other members advice blade tension, blade type, and feed rate can all contribute to your tapering issue. The type of material can also be a factor. You can usually feed faster with softer materials providing you are using the right type of blade. The issue you are having will take care of itself over time with patience and practice. Hang in there and you will overcome.
  12. stoney
    For anyone interested Amazon has the Dremel 335-01 plunge router attachment for $18.34 with prime.
  13. stoney
    I guess about all I can say is there is a buyer for just about anything.
  14. stoney
    I guess I should further explain what I mean by light sanding. What I am actually doing is knocking off any tiny dust nibs with a piece of brown paper bag which is supposed to be about the same as 800 grit sand paper. This gives the finish a smooth satin appearance. Seems to work well with Krylon acrylic. Works well for me and after waiting the 24 hours for the oil based stain to dry I can complete the finishing in a very short period of time.
  15. stoney
    Looking good Dan. Just like they say "happy wife happy life". Thanks for showing us your latest honey do project.
  16. stoney
    Paul I guess that is one reason I don't use Polyurethane. I don't like waiting that long to finish a project. I usually use oil based stain and follow up with light sanding then Krylon acrylic rattle can with light sanding between 2 coats. The Krylon dries in around 10 minutes each coat unless the humidity is high. I think it provides a nice finish. If you haven't tried Krylon give it a try you might like it.
  17. stoney
    The Hegner Multi-Max 2 is a 14.5 inch single speed saw. It is top feed only and blade tension is in the rear. It would not be a good saw for cutting fretwork. As for the price that is close to 50% of new retail for a 32 year old saw . I personally would not be interested in a saw with such limitations.
  18. stoney
    Iggy I'm sure by now you have checked the scroll saw reviews posted here but if you haven't give them a look. As far as reliability I can attest that Hegner saws have a very good reputation. I have had mine since 2008 with no mechanical issues. For the purpose you seem to be using a scroll saw for I think either Hegner or Hawk would serve you well. I have to admit I do like some of the features of the Hawk over the Hegner and if I were looking for a different saw I would give them a serious look.
  19. stoney
    And I thought I had the only higher end saw with not all that user friendly blade clamp system. What is it with these people? Quality user friendly blade clamps isn't rocket science. Delta used to have the greatest blade clamps I ever used and then they discontinued them. What the hell !!!!!!!!
  20. stoney
    Born and raised on a sawmill I learned early on that if you wanted to drive a nail in white oak you did it before the wood dried or it wasn't happening. White oak is a very strong material because of the hi density but for scroll sawing I prefer red oak for the obvious reasons.
  21. stoney
    Ever notice if a mistake is to be made it is usually at or near the end of the project? They say it's only a mistake if it can't be fixed. Then it is commonly referred to as designer firewood. Been there done that more than a few times.
  22. stoney
    That is very good advice Charley and will help many beginners. I guess it is quite natural to use the arms and shoulders when first using a scroll saw. I remember when I first started my neck and back would tighten up after just a short while. Beginner scrollers have a tendency to over react when going off the pattern lines which also causes fatigue. Thanks again Charley you provided a very worth while service today.
  23. stoney
    If you can afford a 20" or larger saw that's the way I would go. I started out with a 16" Craftsman many years ago and it done the job for then but not for now. Like the old saying goes; you don't know what you need until you need it. If you have been at this a while and like to try different kinds of projects you will eventually use that deeper throat, Even if you don't and decide to sell the saw it will probably have a larger market.
  24. stoney
    I didn't know we were gone. Been very busy last couple days but I'll add my thank you Travis your the bestest.
  25. stoney
    It looks like some tedious cutting. I like the key racks they turned out great. Thanks for showing us.
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