V nails can be held with needle nose pliers and driven in with a hammer. Just saying for the occasional frame maker that doesn't want to spend the money for a specific tool.
I don't have any pictures to show you right now Kevin but I have made a lot of red oak frames like the one Tim ( MTCowpoke22) is showing with the cutting of Jesus. I don't know if you have ever heard of V nails but they are a great product for mitered joint frames. I use them along with wood glue to make a fantastic joint.
Well Ray I'm looking on page 20 of the latest Klingspor's catalog No. 172. On the left side of the page they list Sanding Mop Refills in 1"x4" and 2"x6" in 48 packs. On the same page they have the Mandril's listed for each size. It would seem to me they would be listed on their web site also.
I don't particularly like pushing the material to the left or right unless it is a short distance or it is so large I can't turn it, but pushing back or drawing it forward is fine. So what I'm trying to say is I kind of use a spiral like you do Rusty.
Ray you don't have to start out buying the 2x6 inch kit and mandrill. I have two of the the 1x4 inch kits and mandrills and it works for most anything I need a sanding mop for. For the price of the 2x6 inch kit and mandrill you can almost get two 1x4 kits wth different grit sandpaper.
When a 1x4 inch kit gets broken in it spreads out to about 2 to 21/2 inches thick. Works for me.
Cutting any material 1" thick is going to be a challenge for someone relatively new to this craft especially plywood. Until you have racked up many more hours on a scroll saw I would recommend against it. Take the time to learn what are the best blades to use in different situations. I don't want to discourage you from asking questions so slow down and enjoy yourself because if you get in a hurry you will become frustrated and we don't want to see that happen. Good Luck.
Thanks for posting the video Kevin. I have found with a little practice FD new spirals are very useful. I cut a lot of portraits almost exclusively with spiral blades. Anyone that doubts the kind of fine detail that can be cut with precision with spirals only has to go look at some of Charles Dearing's videos on Youtube. I prefer spirals for portraits I cut especially in 1/8 and 1/4 inch Baltic birch plywood, for one thing it saves a heck of a lot of twisting and turning the work piece. LOL
I ordered some flat end FD spiral blades back when Mike Moorloch ( a very good man) was still with us. I thought that they would eliminate having to straighten the ends of the blades. Wrong!! Yes the ends are flat but not parallel so you still have to align the ends.
I use spiral blades pretty much exclusively for portraits and like the FD new spirals the best.
Thanks Jes I believe the item called the Quick Clamp pin 03 is what I'm looking for. I was at their site but missed the listing. They sure have a lot of parts without a picture. I like pictures. LOL
Just wondering if anyone knows where you can buy just the rotating tip set screw used in scroll saw blade clamps? I have a Hegner quick clamp that the tip of the set screw is missing on and would like to just replace the set screw if one is available.
Skip you also might also like the Pegas Modified Geometry blades for thick hardwoods. Quite a few here have tried them and really like them me included.
Yeah Les I remember looking at the picture in one of your posts showing the heater mounted in what appeared quite high on a wall. Like others have said unless the thermostat is located remotely the unit will not operate properly. One other thing is the rising heat needs to be brought down maybe with a paddle fan on a low speed setting.
I have a forced air unit heater specifically designed to be mounted way up next to the ceiling that works well in my shop but it has a remote thermostat. Mine is natural gas but I have to assume an electric element one would be available.
Man- o- man Brad so sorry to read about all your health issues! I sure hope you are on the mend. I hope you just take it real easy and get better real soon. I'll be keeping you and your bride in my thoughts.
Another 2 cents worth. No matter what adhesive you use make sure the pattern is pressed down firmly. I have a rubber roller that I use after applying my pattern to ensure that it is in good firm contact though out.