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stoney

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Everything posted by stoney

  1. stoney
    Next time that happens try using a hand held hair dryer or heat gun. I have used this method with great success it also works great for removing labels.
  2. stoney
    Yeah Ray when those flat belts come off their pulleys they will scare the hell out of ya. My dad's mill used a flat belt about a foot wide with one twist. We kept it coated with belt dressing but it did come off occasionally. Oh by the way, the mill was originally powered with a 1940 Buick straight eight engine until we got 3 phase 480 volt power.
  3. stoney
    Just wondering if you can imagine a scenario like this? Seller: " Yes a heck of a lot of work went into this piece but I broke the dam thing! You don't have to worry though I used some super duper glue and hell it's stronger now than before I broke it." Customer: "You've got to be kidding!!!" Just couldn't help myself. LOL
  4. stoney
    I have never sold anything that I've broken and repaired. I believe that privilege belongs to a customer, but that's just me. I might repair an item and give it away, but more often it just becomes designer firewood.
  5. stoney
    I ran a similar automated sawmill back in the 60's. Sitting in a glass booth pulling handles,turning switches, and pushing buttons sure beats the old manual mill that I grew up on.
  6. stoney
    I have a multi purpose room decorated with Native American portraits, most of which I created. I guess you could that trophy walls.
  7. stoney
    Charlie I hope surgery goes well and recovery time is minimal.
  8. stoney
    I agree Ray I like to refer to members post by addressing them with their first name when possible. My posts are signed with my nickname as well as my first. I will answer to either as long as I get called to dinner.
  9. stoney
    I also started out with a bottom feed only Craftsman. I then went to a Delta P20 which can be either top or bottom fed but continued to bottom feed most of the time. I now own a Hegner and have no choice but would like the option especially on large fretwork projects. I don't think I would buy another scroll saw that didn't have the top or bottom feed option. JMHO
  10. stoney

    Hi Randy,

    Well the Hummingbird came today, what a beautiful piece it is.   My wife loves it.   She normally wears gold jewelery so she has to get a silver chain to wear it.   It will be fun to point out to friends that you cut it with a scroll saw.

    Thanks again, Al 

  11. stoney
    Any good light weight oil should do the job. Light is the key word as you want it to flow in where it belongs. The main thing is to oil the bushings often enough that they don't run dry. I try to remember to oil mine at least every 10 hours. Oil is cheaper then bushings and applying it only takes a few seconds. I have been using a product called Tri-Flow which works well.
  12. stoney
    Amen! I have tried any number of products on wood used outside over the last 55 years and found all of them lacking for the long haul. Any wood left out in the elements with a finish applied is going to require continual maintenance. Take treated wood decks for example. With treated wood decks you have yourself a part time job for as long as you own it. JMHO
  13. stoney
    Sorry to hear about your neck issue Bobby. Hope you are able to get back to your saw real soon.
  14. stoney
    Well Ray here is my take. Both types have there uses. One of the benefits of a ROS is its ability to have dust collection. A palm or finish sander works better for sanding fretwork for example and can deliver a super smooth finish. You can also obtain a good finish with a ROS and as a rule will remove material faster. JMHO
  15. stoney
    Looks like it has worked out well for you. Thanks for sharing.
  16. stoney
    Nice job Les. When done as a hobby time is pretty insignificant at least to me. Thanks for showing us.
  17. stoney
    Very nice Tim. Great patterns, cuttings and finishing. Thanks for showing us.
  18. stoney
    Rob this is a joke right? If it isn't it should be.
  19. stoney
    All good advice given. I have found speed is one of the biggest factors in cutting plastics. With their low melting point the speed or lack there of is a huge factor. Like as it has all ready been said provide some lubrication to the blade and slow the speed down along with feed rate until you find the right balance. When possible practice on scrap or in a waste area.
  20. stoney
    That is a very nice pattern Kevin.
  21. stoney
    To each their own Larry but I don't think it's possible to collect all the fine dust a scroll saw produces. They say it's the microscopic dust (the kind you can't see) that is the most damaging.
  22. stoney
    Safety glasses all the time, dust mask when making dust, hearing protection when making noise, and gloves when I need hand protection.
  23. stoney
    Yep. I do both. Sanding before hand reduces the amount of sanding after which reduces the amount of time sanding sometimes on some quite fragile areas.
  24. stoney
    I don't particularly like the in the ear foam type devices either but I do use them for shooting as they are supposed to be more effective. In my shop I have a pair of the over the ear muffs which are more comfortable. I don't wear them all the time only when using my planer, joiner, table saw etc.
  25. stoney
    Paul I don't have that tool. I watched a guy use nothing more than a pair of needle nose pliers and a hammer so I use the same method and it works fine. Unless you are making lots of frames or just like to buy tools I would save my money. JMHO
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