stoney
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Everything posted by stoney
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The one in your left hand looks like a much better design but I believe the blade slot should have a V shaped bottom it would seem that would work better for all blade sizes. Can you post a link to the the German site? I for one would be interested to see what else their site contains.
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Just wondering if you have had to stand on your head to find the lower blade clamp Les? From what I can see Hegner has not addressed the issue of the possibility that the lower blade clamp can leave the scene upon a blade break. You sure don't get much from Hegner for lower dust collection for $85.00. Check out my remedy for that issue in the picture on My Hegner Modifications post. I just collect the sawdust in the bag and dump in out occasionally. I have a piece of 1/4" hardware cloth positioned just above the bag to prevent the clamp from falling into the bag.
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It's fine Ray I have arthritis in my hands so I use the hold down when cutting thick projects.
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I do Ray otherwise I wouldn't have bothered.
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I don't Know about the 14 inch Hegner but on the 18 and 22 inch machines it's because of the hold down rod. If you look at the pictures of my machine you will notice that I had to raise the arm and lengthen the rod for the hold down in order to accommodate the extra clearance.
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Another twist on Jim Finn's modification to the Hegner blade clamp jig. My thought was the V will accommodate any size blade.
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Hegner should incorporate your design into their blade clamp jig Jim. You and I could set them people straight on a few things if only we could speak German.
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Great tips John! I agree with you on the use of #5 blades. I use a lot of #5 blades. They flex less, break less, and are easier to control than the smaller sizes. I also have found they work well on a lot of scroll saw patterns. I step down to a #3 when necessary or even a #1 occasionally when required. I have yet to cut a pattern that required the use of a 2/0 or 3/0 blade and I have cut a lot of patterns. Once in a while I'll see a picture of someones cutting that they say was cut with a tiny blade like a 2/0 or 3/0 that I have successfully cut the same pattern with a #5 or #3. I wonder why they would use a smaller blade than required? Do they just like the challenge or is it the bragging rights? Oh well, whatever blows their hair back. JMHO
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Looks like a great buy Les. What is the year it was built? I'm Just curious.
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How does your top clamp attach to the saw? Just took another look at your picture Les and the newer improved clamps will work.
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You are welcome and not alone Les, most of us buy on impulse sometimes but like Ray said you got a great deal on the saw. I just thought maybe I could catch you in time and save you a little cash.
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Les you can make a similar to the Hegner upgrade tension release. I made one for an old 16" Craftsman. Just go to ebay and do a search for a cam lever. They are available with different threads to screw onto your rod.
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When you get a good one it pays to hang onto them. It will be 55 for me and the Mrs. next January. Great job on your candles Ray.
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Amazingly beautiful piece of work! Thanks for showing us Ray.
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I'm glad to see you back. Good luck on your knee.
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Thank you Matt and everyone who commented on my post. The keys to using spirals are good patterns, lots of practice, and patience.
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Paul your point is well taken but the point of my post was new members join this forum regularly and my post was really directed at them. Also it didn't sound like Tony had really given spirals an honest try and I wanted to show him what can be created with a little patience and practice.
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Congrats on the new saw. Well I have had the same saw for 11 years and so far all I have had to replace is blades. LOL Knock on wood!
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First I would suggest either buying flat end spirals or use pliers to untwist the ends and then make the flat ends parallel to each other. Yeah the twisted ends do not work well in most blade clamps. Don't sell yourself short just be patient and you can do it.
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I don't quite understand why some members have such a dislike for spiral blades. Some really nice portraits can be created with them. Now granted, they are a different animal and take some getting used to but once that is accomplished they work really well. I'm going to try and download some portraits I have done exclusively with spiral blades both in BB plywood and solid wood. Here goes................................. Sorry about hijacking your thread Tony but I just couldn't help myself !! You really need to give spirals a chance I Know you will like them once you get used to them.
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This subject has come up before. You can achieve a similar result by cutting 3/4" off the bottom of blade and adjust the tension accordingly. However the saw will cut a little more aggressively. You will lose the reverse teeth of course, depending on the blade used either way.
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I have used both types over over the years and much prefer the tempered. It is quite a bit stronger in my opinion. It works really well for templates. I put a 4x8 sheet down in my wife's sewing room on top of the carpet to make it easier to roll her chair from one machine to another, much cheaper then replacing the whole floor. LOL
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I have enough patterns to last me the rest of my life and then some.
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Just my two cents worth. Along with the lubricating qualities of using tape which reduces friction, which in turn reduces heat, which in my opinion lengthens the life of blades, it also allows for immediate finishing of the project. As far as removing little bits of tape a heat gun works wonders. I don't use tape exclusively but it does have its benefits on some projects, especially on very dense hardwoods.
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Ray I still have a half box of roofing nails that were left over for a house I built in 1976. I also have some copper and pvc plumbing fittings left over from that same house. The sad thing is even though I haven't used hardly any of this stuff I have moved it three times. LOL
