Ray removing to entire boss Just makes for a cleaner look. I didn't remove mine to top feed just to make it easier to bottom feed especially on larger fretwork
I guess I am doing something wrong as I can't retrieve a thread I posted about changes I made to my Hegner Multi-Max 22v to make it more user friendly. I thought it might serve new Hegner owners that haven't seen it to take a look.
If money and room was no object I would buy a Hawk and a Pegas. I already have a Hegner Multi-Max 22V that has served me well for 12 years but I would like to try the some other saws.
First I want to thank you Travis for all you do for us here on the forum. I for one really appreciate what you do for us. I guess I'm as resistant to change as anyone my age (76) but I also realize it is necessary to keep up so we don't become obsolete. I agree with Rolf the software change at SSWWC a few years ago was a real bummer. Things didn't work well and the software company didn't seem very interested in fixing the issues created. As a result member participation went way down and patients wore thin resulting in some members leaving. I just hope something like that never happens here. As long a my son and grandson are willing to help me with the technology I can't figure out, I'll hang in here.
The issue I have found with Flying Dutchman flat end spirals is the ends are not on the same plane and have to be tweaked. They are not ready to use right out of the packaging.
Make a planer board and adhere coarse sandpaper to the surface with a good spray adhesive. I have planed narrow straight grain wood down to 1/32 thickness for bookmarks with very light passes. As a safety measure never stand directly behind the infeed table and always wear eye protection.
Ray my contractor Delta table saw has a cast iron top and wings and is belt driven. I'm not taking about one of the direct drive folding stand type contractor saws. Mine is a quality made piece of equipment but they still refer to it as a contractor saw. Maybe it's for higher quality contractors. LOL
Ray I don't usually recommend Delta tools because of what they done with their P20 scroll saw but that is a different story. I have a Delta contractor saw that has served me well. When they talk of precision with a table saw, set up properly ( properly being the key word} with good sharp blades a Delta contractor saw will do a respectable job. I have built quite a few pieces of furniture with mine with good results.
It would be hard to find a more generous and giving person than Steve Good. He contributes more to the scroll saw craft than anyone I know. I wish him the best outcome possible from his latest medical diagnosis.
I have made Hundreds of compound Christmas ornaments and use a clamp exclusively. I generally apply pattern and then cover the whole piece with packing tape. I have strips of course sandpaper glued to inside edges of the clamp so I don't have to apply a lot of pressure to prevent slippage. I find this method to be quite efficient. For those that cut patterns that have lines that come right to the edge I would suggest use a little larger piece or leave a gap in the sandpaper.
I use both on some portrait projects mostly spirals but straights on long straight cuts. I also use spirals on other projects for veining. I don't have your issue of control switching from spirals to straights.
That will probably not be the last piece of designer firewood you make if you keep doing this addictive craft. Most everyone makes some sooner or later. I know over the years I have made my share. As you have more hours into this craft you will make less of it. Don't be to hard on yourself believe me this to will pass.
I started releasing blade tension when I had a Delta P20 scroll saw because the parallel arms were made of a composite material. My thinking was if the saw wasn't used for a long time a memory might be developed in the arm material. It has just become a part of shutting my saw down now.
Great pattern you chose Denny. I agree on spiral blades. They are a great blade for fretwork portraits. I encourage anyone who hasn't given them an honest try to give them a little time they might just like them. Lord knows a lot of us have plenty of time on our hands right now.
What I have done on thicker than 1/4 inch fretwork is paint the interior cut edges the same color as the backer, mostly black, before removing the pattern. Any paint that might bleed onto the face I sand off after it is completely dry.
Yes Ray this is what I was trying to explain in the post about buckets collapsing when using dust collecting systems for scroll saws. I have a small Craftsman vacumm that has an adjustable relieve valve built into the hose.
Boy! For that price they should be able to ship one anywhere in the world for free. I was going to check on an electrostatic filter for my furnace but maybe I will change my mind.
Yea Paul I can't see your PVC setup but if you were to install say a 1 1/2" T fitting where you convert from your hose to PVC with a valve you could adjust how much relief you need. To say it another way you can regulate how much suction is required. You would also be relieving how much load you are putting on your vacuum.