stoney
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Everything posted by stoney
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I think the choking down to 3/4 loc-line is the main issue Paul. I would try putting a tee fitting in the system with a valve in the third orifice so as to see how much relief you need. You can also just glue your two buckets together. Just Kidding
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I guess I don't get what good it would do to put the bucket with the Dust Deputy attached inside the second bucket. Seems to me the inside bucket would still collapse you just wouldn't see it. What am I missing? I got 2 buckets with my Dust Deputy kit but only use one at a time. I thought the second was just for convenience.
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I had one of those in the mid 50's but I remember not being very impressed. I remember making my mother a corner shelf from 1/2" plywood and the pieces took almost forever to cut. The stroke on those units was very very short and I can't imagine cutting material over 1/2" thick. If that type of saw didn't discourage a lot of would be scrollers I would be surprised. I can't remember how much the saw cost me but I think it was around $30.00. I know that was a heck of a lot of money for a 11 or 12 year old in my financial situation. At the time I was working on my dad's sawmill for 25 cents an hour so that scroll saw represented close to a months pay.
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First John I am not recommending anything I am just stating what has worked for me for 20 years with no issues. I will state I am not a production operation. My heater is mounted on a 10 ft. ceiling and has a standing pilot. I use oil based stains and mostly rattle can finishes. Have you ever heard of ventless open flame gas heaters used in garages? They are to be mounted at least 3 ft. from the bottom of the heater above the floor. My point is if they were so dangerous they would not be allowed. This thread started out with concerns about suspended wood dust if I remember right and has since evolved. JMHO
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Yes John I do all my finishing work right in my wood working shop. I use a charcoal filter respirator mask and run my dust collection when doing any finishing work.
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I believe this issue has been discussed before on this forum. I would think you would need a very high concentration of suspended fine dust to create a fire or explosive situation. Granted a vented heater will always be the best method. I have had a 30,000 btu open flame ceiling hung unit in my shop for 20 years with no issues. I will say some form of dust collection should be used for obvious reasons. JMHO
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The one issue I have found with MDF core plywood is when used for fine detail fretwork thin bridges are more fragile and easily broken than Baltic Birch.
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Rather than nibble I find cutting into the corner then backing up a little and turning around in the waste area and backing into the corner is faster. That being said your cross turned out great, thanks for showing us.
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Great pattern and excellent cutting Jim. Congrats on reaching the big 50th. The wife and I celebrated our 55th in January.
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First I would like to say I really like the old style Pegas MG blades. They are now my go to blade. That being said I wonder why Pegas doesn't state they have a new supposedly improved design. I can't really tell from the pictures Grizz displayed the change except for the notch on the top. I wish when a blade design is changed they would somehow indicate such, especially if there is a difference in the way they cut. JMHO
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Two 16.75 oz cans of Super 77 for around $10.00 in my neck of the woods would be a very great deal. I too have tried some of the other brands but keep coming back to 77. I found with some other brands I had issues with pattern lifting especially with very detailed fretwork. I haven't tried 45 so I can't comment on it.
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Hi Denny, I put you in my contacts and will place my next blade order with you. I have been using Pegas blades ever since I heard about them on this forum. Good Luck on your business venture.
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Sorry Kevin I didn't realize it was a typo. I just thought you were talking about another place to see scroll saws for sale. I have had my Hegner Multi Max 22v for 12 years and haven't have any issues (knock on wood). I wouldn't mind even a smaller one, the 14", for back up if the price was right.
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Kevin can you provide a link to Hefner's?
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I never have understood why some scrollers use the very small blades on projects that can be easily accomplished with a larger blade. Is it for bragging rights or what? I can't remember the last time I used a 2/0 or smaller blade. For one thing it's just common sense less metal means less material to dissipate heat which is one big enemy of scroll saw blades. Less metal also means smaller blades are less forgiving for flexing, bending, and tension. Now granted small blades do have their uses but I think they should only be used when the project requires them. JMHO
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Great job to both you Joe for the cutting and Charles for the pattern. It is a really nice piece. Your work reinforces my view that some really beautiful projects can be accomplished with spiral blades.
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Wow! I am bumping this thread back up because it is hard to believe on a forum with over 4000 members that someone doesn't personally own or have used one of the for mentioned pen sanders. I think I already know they probably are not the be all end all and could stand improvement as most tools could but would like some input. The reviews on Amazon are mixed but I would prefer hearing from someone on this forum if possible.
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They don't say in their advertising but no matter which they use, hook and loop or adhesive backed, they are both available in larger sizes that could be cut to size.
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A question regarding "Aggressive" cutting!
stoney replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Aggressive in reference to a scroll saw blade to me means it removes the kerf faster than another brand or type. What causes one brand or type of blade to remove material faster or more efficiently is determined by it's design. As a general rule a blade with fewer teeth and more set is going to cut more aggressively. I really like Pegas MG blades but probably would not have when I first started scrolling. I would not recommend any quite aggressive blade to those just getting started for the obvious reasons. Just like a beginning driver should not be expected to be able to control a powerful race car. -
Just wondering if anybody owns one of the small pen sanders like the Proxxon pen sander or the Microlux from MicroMark. For those that are not familiar they are a micro reciprocating detail sander. I think one would make a great tool for clean up on any small woodworking projects. I make many small toys and I believe one would work well for sanding the tight hard to get at areas. The Proxxon pen sanders speed can be adjusted if connected to the variable output power supply which might make it a better choice. Apparently these are the only two products of this kind readily available as no others come up in a Google search.
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Ray, so sorry to hear of you and your family's tremendous loss. I truly can't imagine the pain you all are going through. I will keep you in my thoughts. You don't have to worry about posting something like this here because I believe we are a caring community.
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My advice is buy the Dremel chuck from a local retailer not Amazon. I had to return 2 of them that were cheap china knockoffs in a non sealed Dremel package. The one I bought at Lowes was made in West Germany and in a sealed package.
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Rolf I had a Delta P20 with the cam style clamps and loved them. Used properly they were very effective, and made clamping blades quick and easy. As has been pointed out before the main issue with them was when they were adjusted improperly the result would be the bending of the lever as to much pressure was required to close the clamp. I wish some company would try to buy the rights from Delta to produce a similar design, promoted properly I think they would sell.
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Les, I can't remember the last time I used a 2/0 blade. I have found mostly the smaller the blade the shorter time it lasts. When you think about it smaller blades have smaller teeth and less material to dissipate any heat created in the cutting process. We all know heat and twisting motion are both enemy's of scroll saw blades. My philosophy is to not use a smaller blade than required to get the job done and it has served me well.
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You say birch plywood. If it is not Baltic birch plywood it might have a cheap core rather than wood plies. A smaller blade may help but my suggestion would be a better grade of material. Baltic birch plywood would be stronger and more forgiving.
