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stoney

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Everything posted by stoney

  1. stoney
    Ray after you have been at this addiction for a while you will get the feel for when you need to trash a blade. I have a magnetic strip on the frame of my saw that I will occasionally put a blade that is still cutting well but I changed for another size or type. I do not use any type of timing method most of the time I can tell by how the blade is performing when its time to trash it.
  2. stoney
    Beautiful display of your work. Congratulations.
  3. stoney
    High: Having a customer really happy with a custom project. High: Seeing your work proudly displayed by the recipient. Low: Seeing one of your projects destroyed by someone's careless behavior. High: Setting down to an expensive scroll saw a seeing how well it performs. Low: Having a blade break on the expensive scroll saw and have the bottom blade clamp fall out and disappear. Really!!!?
  4. stoney
    High: Finding the perfect pattern for a project. Low: Turning a project into designer firewood on one of the last cuts.
  5. stoney
    Interesting Ray. Maybe that only applies to Buick springs. Just kidding I couldn't resist.
  6. stoney
    I don't know specifically what Hegner bellows are made of but it appears to be a rubber compound of some sort. I heard years ago that rubber tires need to be rolled periodically to prevent the rubber from cracking like what happens to allot of trailer tires. As the story goes the action of movement brings some of the emollients in the rubber to the surface to help prevent cracking. I wonder if that would apply to a bellows? Randy said his dad's saw sat idle for 20 years. Maybe a combination of time and lack of movement will do in any type of rubber product. Just a thought. Now the plastic connector rod that's another story I don't know if there is anything that can prevent plastic deterioration.
  7. stoney
    I think the Hegner that Roger is talking about is 18 years old. The rollers he replaced are used on every fretwork cut, blade change, etc. My saw is 10 years old and the rollers are still working fine so I guess I may have a ways to go. I don't understand his statement about springs for the upper and lower arms though as my saw only has one.
  8. stoney
    Sounds like Advanced Machinery isn't dealing on used machines like they were when I bought mine. They sold me a 2007 Hegner Multimax 22v in March of 2008 for a grand. The package contained the foot pedal, 3 sets of clamps, the quick clamp, some blades, the stand, and 5 yr. warranty. The only evidence of use was a few shallow circular scratches on the table. Maybe the reason they aren't as anxious to deal now is business has been real good. Just a thought.
  9. stoney
    Thank you Randy for posting the link to my modifications posting on sswc forum. I guess it slipped my mind. Getting old don't cha know? I also posted a brief update to my original Hegner Multimax 22v review. For anyone who has any questions about the modifications I have made they can send me a PM and I would be happy to help if I can.
  10. stoney
    Yeah me too. Every once in a while I forget to tension the blade before I push my foot pedal. Boy! that wakes me right up.
  11. stoney
    Yeah, If the Hegner saws are not used for larger fretwork,(say bigger than 8"x 10") the upper arm stop location works right where it is. What I got tired of was having to get off my stool and turn my head sideways to thread the blade through the bottom of a larger work piece. The reason I decided to change mine was I do cut larger fretwork and I seen no good reason why the stop was located where it was and if it was possible to change it's location with no harm no foul to the integrity of the machine and I achieved my objective.
  12. stoney
    Yeah, I somewhat agree with you Randy about the warranty thing as some manufacturers will use any excuse to void a warranty. I made my modifications after the warranty expired however I didn't understand from day one why the upper arm stop was located where it was. It has been over 2 years now since I removed it from its original location and installed it 1 1/4" lower and it hasn't harmed the integrity of the saw at all. I can tell you the modification is a big improvement and makes cutting large fretwork much more enjoyable.
  13. stoney
    Now were talken! Nothing better than a project that is decorative and well as has a practical useful purpose. Thanks for showing us.
  14. stoney

    Ash

    stoney replied to ekud1946's topic in General Scroll Sawing

    White ash that we have here in Michigan is nice wood to work with for many woodworking projects including scroll saw projects.
  15. stoney
    Yeah Paul I agree with your logic especially when cutting fretwork. Some cuts on fretwork only take a matter of a few seconds and I think that shutting off a vac and turning it back on again it that type of scenario is just not a good idea. I believe your reasoning on undo wear is sound. The scroll saw turning off and on is a situation we can't realistically do anything about why add to the wear factor? JMHO
  16. stoney
    Congrads Dave. I can tell you one thing you will probably not do is wear your new Hegner out. What model did you buy?
  17. stoney
    I didn't find any pricing with a google search Joe. The blade stabilizer is interesting though. I modified the hold down on my Hegner Multimax 22V so it acts as a hold down as well as a blade stabilizer. It works well. I have arthritis in my hands and it works really well especially for thick hardwoods which is all I use it for.
  18. stoney
    Very nice cuttings Runa you are doing very well. Yeah if you can get the pinless blades to work you can do very fine detail fretwork. Thanks for showing us.
  19. stoney
    Excellent job on the lettering Rick that turned out great. Thanks for showing us.
  20. stoney
    Very nice modification. Thanks for showing us.
  21. stoney
    Yeah Kevin I never owned a scroll saw with bearings like you are talking about. I realize sealed bearings are more expensive and that must be why the bean counters don't allow them to be used. Just wondering if sealed bearing are available the right size would the cost be prohibitive to replace the OEM one's?
  22. stoney
    The frame is cast iron and not at all hard to drill and tap. Like I said before all the spring has to be is just strong enough to hold the arm in the raised position. All you have to do is take the original spring to your local hardware store so you can get the same length spring only with lighter tension. It is really a quite simple modification. I have been using my saw modified this way for a long time now and very glad I did it.
  23. stoney
    Your on the right track Paul. Just wondering if you have considered moving the upper arm stop like I did? It sure makes threading the blade on fretwork much easier. Glad to hear you had a great day.
  24. stoney
    This kind of reminds me of the story about a men's store and umbrellas. The store keeper wasn't having any success selling his umbrellas at the regular price he had posted so he made a big sign ON SALE and raised the price and they sold like hotcakes. Edward you don't say what the item is or what kind of a price you have on it. Maybe the best course of action would be to give it to someone as a gift, or not.
  25. stoney
    I tried one they do the job but have to be applied very often. I went back to packing tape.
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