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stoney

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Everything posted by stoney

  1. stoney
    I guess I don't get the don't use a wood trivet for hot pans. They use cedar planks to grill food. I have some red oak trivets that we use for hot pans and casseroles all the time. They only have a oil based stain on them. Works for me.
  2. stoney
    I use all of the methods except traceing. Which one depends on the project.
  3. stoney
    Yeah me too! Would like the option especially on large fretwork projects but it is what it is.
  4. stoney
    I have used just about every method that has been already mentioned. What I have been using quite a bit lately is small pieces of good quality double faced tape. For an example on a 8"x10" portrait I place a 1/2" x 3/4" piece in all four corners and one in the middle. That is usually sufficient. When done cutting I use a thin putty knife to separate the stack and then remove the tape. I then remove any residue from the tape by sanding or wiping with acetone. Works well for me.
  5. stoney
    Beautiful work Tony. Thanks for showing us.
  6. stoney
    I have cut some fretwork in 1/2 and 3/4 inch solid wood and found I really didn't like the looks of the edges of the inside cuts. I thought looking at the cutting from an angle that the edges were a distraction. My solution was to spray paint the edges black before removing the pattern. Any paint that bled onto the surface was quite easily removed by power sanding once the paint was good and dry. For the projects I did that way I really liked the results. This method wouldn't be a good idea for use on plywood as the sanding might remove some of the outer ply. I see no need for this method with 1/8 or even 1/4 inch plywood anyway as I don't find the edges a distraction.
  7. stoney
    I usually try to stay right on the line except when I don't. Just kidding on some patterns I cut I may leave or take out more of the waste area depending what I find appropriate. On some patterns staying on the line may make an area to fragile for my taste. As far as scrolling right or left I do both again depending on the pattern.
  8. stoney

    Boy Fishing

    stoney replied to Rob's topic in Bragging Rights

    Beautiful!!
  9. stoney
    I was just wondering if there is any clamping pressure adjustment on the top blade clamp? I really like the idea of clamping and tensioning the blade in one operation. That would be a very nice feature for fretwork. Thank you for your review.
  10. stoney
    Danny I have to somewhat agree on the Hegner. They are a very reliable well built scroll saw but have a few short comings. As for Delta that's another story. I had a Delta 40-680 or sometimes referred to as the P20. It was also a very nice saw. You might like to know Delta has failed to support some their products in the past apparently when some bean counter decides to do so. With Delta you may end up with a boat anchor if they decide to withdraw support. I can't speak to other brands of scroll saws except Hegner which have been supporting and providing parts for their saws for a very long time.
  11. stoney
    I generally use I/8" Baltic birch plywood for portraits and here is why. When a portrait is viewed from an angle instead of straight on the edges of the fretwork cuts distract from the content in my opinion. In fact when I cut fretwork in thicker material I like to paint the edges of the cuts with flat black paint, when I use a black backer, before removing the pattern. I think it really enhances the fretwork. For anyone that hasn't done this try it you might like the results.
  12. stoney
    Great tip Don! Also great looking sign! I think I'll try a 32 tooth 12" blade and see how it works. Thanks for your Post.
  13. stoney
    Charley I would like to add my thanks for taking the time to share your tutorial with us. I had a detailed tutorial for Photo Elements but it must had gotten misplaced or thrown away. Thanks again.
  14. stoney
    It looks to me the only thing missing is the front tension lever feature. I think you bought the saw cheap enough to justify the upgrade. It would make the saw much more user friendly. You just bought a very reliable well built saw at a great price. Congratulations!
  15. stoney
    I make some fretwork napkin holders mostly out of 3/4" red oak. I wanted a branding iron that I could use on the bottom edge that would fit in a area of 5/8" X 2 1/2". I had one made that has Made in USA on the first line and by My Name on the second line, it works great. I have used it for other projects and it works well for them also. So yes I sign my work.
  16. stoney
    I have often wondered how many prospective scroll sawers were completely turned off by using a lousy scroll saw. I can't for the life of me understand why some tool company can't come up with an entry level scroll saw that is more user friendly and will hold together at least long enough for a person to find out if they really like the hobby. My suggestion would be is to wait until you can afford a better quality good used scroll saw.
  17. stoney
    I agree with Steve it would look good with a clear finish or maybe a not to dark stain. Either way I'll bet she will love it. Nice job.
  18. stoney
    I make toy cars and such for underprivileged kids and use a sanding mop for the finish sanding 220 grit. Sanding mops are not designed to sand fragile work like fretwork. They would work very well for finish sanding on pieces for a intarsia project. There is a short learning curve that includes holding on to the work piece in a firm grip. The first thing to do with a new sanding mop is to break it in with a fairly large piece of scrap so you can firmly grip it and ease it into to mop. I use mine often and like it very much.
  19. stoney
    Cliff, sorry I'm a little late to respond but I agree with others the piece that broke off is not very noticeable. If it really bothers you making a new cutting is probably your best bet. That's probably what I would do and either glue the broken piece in or smooth the area where it broke off and keep that one for myself.
  20. stoney
    I started scrolling some when I was in my early teens, I'm going on 72. Made a couple of projects for my mom. I then left the hobby for a long time. I got serious about it again about 2001. A few years later I bought Gary Brownings book to learn how to turn a photograph into a fretwork pattern. i evolved from there to try just about anything that can be done with a scroll saw. I have learned from numerous sources including this and other forums, and yes practice,practice,and more practice. Oh, one more thing, asking questions. If you are new to this hobby please don't be afraid to ask questions. Like others have said before me, the only dumb questions are the ones not asked.
  21. stoney
    I have a set of the "Baby Soda Bottles" like DW has. This is really what they are. They are soda bottles that haven't been expanded. They work great for blade storage. They have a lip that lends itself to mounting in a rack nicely. They also have a screw on top that is easily labeled. For those interested just do a google search as they are available online.
  22. stoney
    The way I figure is if I'm just going to throw a dull blade away anyway I don't care how many pieces the blade is in. LOL Just kidding! I hate the surprise when a blade breaks so I probably also change blades more often than I need to. Sometimes It's also a pain threading a new blade into a partially done cut.
  23. stoney
    I have used 3M 77 for quite sometime. Has a very good bond especially for fretwork patterns with lots of fine detail. It is a little pricier than some other adhesives but works really well.
  24. stoney
    Pretty much stopped taking magazine subscriptions. It started to really bug me that not only was half or more of the connected content advertising, but they started adding loose advertising that would fall in your lap or on the floor. Really!! Also I have received magazines and not found anything of value for me. You defiantly pay more at retailers but at least you can peruse the magazine and see if it has enough value for your money.
  25. stoney
    V-nails are a great fastener for securing the miter joints on picture frames. They make a variety of tools for driving them. V-nails can be installed with something as simple as needle nose pliers and a hammer up to an installation tool costing hundreds of dollars.
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