CharleyL

Rick, My wife had a fall last year that resulted in 2 broken vertebrae in the center area of her back and two more breaks in her pelvis. After several X-Rays and even more MRI, she had surgery in mid January of this year. Some of the delay before surgery was to get a special surgeon to do the work. This surgeon is the only one in North Carolina performing this type of surgery. He travels around the State doing this, so we had to wait for him to be here. Through injections, he used a medical version of 5 minute epoxy to glue my wife back together. She is now recovering, is in much less pain, with no surgery knife wounds to heal, and much less pain. Since you are likely already scheduled for your surgery, this may be the wrong time to change directions. If not, you might be able to find out if this type of surgery would help you, and if there is a surgeon who does this somewhere near you. It's only been about 3 weeks since my wife had this done for her and although she spent considerable time in pain before her surgery she is now up and doing things in the kitchen again, but with occasional rests in her recliner between. The best of luck to you in your surgery. I hope it is the solution that you need. Charley

I do all of my planing outside my small shop in the driveway. To be able to wheel the planer outside and back in, and also have a stand that would raise my DeWalt 735 planer up to a comfortable working height I settled on a Delta Miter Saw / Planer stand. DeWalt now makes a better version of this same design . This stand is the DeWalt 726. Since the mounting hole spacing of the planer did not match the rail spacing on the top of the stand I made an adapter plate from a piece of 3/4" cabinet birch plywood, drilling holes in the plywood to match the hole pattern of the planer and also the rails of the stand. I leave my 735 attached to the stand. When it's being stored in my shop, it is folded and standing on it's end in the corner of my shop requiring only a couple of sq ft of floor space. When I need to use it I wheel it out to the driveway like a hand truck, then lay it down on it's handles. Then a lift of the bar behind the handles raises it up to either of two working heights where a latch prevents it from folding. Gas springs in the stand assist in the lifting, removing about 50% of the effort that would be required without them. When I'm finished with the planning, I lift the stand slightly, and release the latch, then lower it back down to the driveway. I can then wheel it back into the shop and stand it up on end using the handles, again leaving it standing on it's end in the shop corner. The DeWalt 735 planer weighs 95 lbs, but it has handles, implying that it's a "portable tool". When I was 40 and younger I might have considered it "portable", but at twice this age and with a heart condition and metal knees now, it would likely end my life to try to lift and carry it now any distance now, yet with this stand I can move and use it without anyone helping me any time that I wish to use it, unless it's raining. Charley

This is what I made for Valentine's Day this year. I know It isn't made of wood, but the table is. I haven't been able to get out and work in my wood shop, but I can get into my photo studio upstairs (my other out-of-control hobby) so I made this photo. You are all free to print this if you wish (no copyrite) . Good Photography is more about controlling the light to get the result that you wish. A box camera or cell phone won't work for this as they are designed to give you the best image possible, which is not what this type of photo is about. The dark mystery part is important to set the mood. Most any camera with manual controls can be used for this. I used my Canon 90D, a 2 year old 34 Megapixel Pro Camera (kind-of way overkill) for this shot, but even film cameras with the needed manual controls could have been used. The light for this was from a standard studio strobe with a 7" diameter reflector. To get the size of the light beam from it down to a small enough diameter to only light the rose bud area, I added a honeycomb filter, in this case a very fine honeycomb rated at 10 degrees, meaning that the light coming through it can only deviate 10 degrees from straight or it hits the sides of the black holes in the honeycomb filter and is blocked. I took two shots of this at 1 F-Stop less of light (adjustable light level for the light is needed) . The other shot shows much less of the light spill on the table and I decided that I wanted the table dark, but easily seen in the photo, so I chose this shot as the keeper. It shows in the other photo, but just barely. I hope to get back in my wood shop again soon. I broke my 19 year tradition of making 3D reindeer for this past Christmas too. Charley

You might want to check this link. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/set-screws/?s=set+screws If that can't be matched, please remove the screw and post a photo of it by itself. If you can identify the thread size that would help too. Charley

Yes, you can remove the broken piece and a hair dryer is a good method to soften the links (if you don't overheat them) for removal and replacement. You can get more links as spares from DeWalt or parts distributors like www.ereplacementparts.com, or from a local industrial supply like Grainger, McMaster Supply, etc. Even Amazon offers them. Charley

Are you all aware that Home Depot now sells small stills? Maybe you could make your own alcohol for future projects and party enjoyment since the result is Not Denatured. (DIY Ever Clear!!). I guess the alternative is to have a woodworking buddy in Arizona meet you at the State Line for a picnic and exchange. Charley

"Also, pots are rated linear or audio. Generally, audio pots are more precise." Not correct. Audio potentiometers do not have a linear taper. They are labeled "Audio Taper" because their resistance is more expotential, meaning that the resistance from end terminal to the center terminal changes faster as the slider is moved across it. You won't be happy if you use one of these. (Accuracy and quality do not change because they are labeled audio taper). The quality of construction is usually affected by the price. There are other special purpose versions with different tapers out there too. Just be sure you are about to buy one that has a "linear taper" label on it when replacing your speed control potentiometer in your saw. If not a DeWalt 788, then the 10 K resistance may be different in your saw. It and the shaft size will then likely the most important information needed. Charley

You will need to know the old potentiometer resistance stamped on the side of the body of the old one and it will need to be a "linear taper", meaning that the resistance between the center terminal and either end terminal changes at the same rate as the shaft is turned. In a DeWalt 788 the potentiometer is a 10K ohm (meaning 10,000 ohm). The biggest problem in finding a replacement is going to be it's physical size and it's shaft size and configuration. DeWalt wanted to sell the whole circuit board and the potentiometer when I needed one for my club's 788 for something like $58 plus shipping, so at the time Radio Shack was still open and I bought one the right physical and electrical size, but with a 3" long shaft, then cut the shaft to the needed length in my shop. Another source that caters more to the home hobbyist and small business is Jameco Electronics. When Radio Shack closed I was doing business with Jameco by mail order but I haven't needed electronic parts in quite a while now. A Google Search will find their website and contact numbers. Charley

You might want to search for "Banana Hook" or "Banana Holder". If no plans are available, just looking at the photos should allow you to make your own version. They are quite simple in design. Charley

There is a fabric called "Sunbrella" that is used for long lasting boat covers. Many colors are available too. The custom cover that was built locally for my boat lasted 10 years before it needed replacing. We had several violent wind storms, heavy rain, baking bright sun, and at least one 6" snow storm during that time and no problems at all with the boat cover. The boat cover shops aren't usually very busy this time of year, so maybe one of them will be willing to build you what you need. You will likely need to build the frame so it can be assembled and dis-assembled easily, since they wanted me to leave the boat with them as they made the cover. Another alternative, though I have no idea of the strength and durability, is the canvas garage that's available from Harbor Freight. I doubt that you will get more than a few years out of it though. Still, the price is quite reasonable for what it is. When the cover on it goes bad, maybe you could re-cover the frame with something better. Charley

I'm still using an HP LaserJet 4 printer that was given to me almost 20 years ago. They still sell off brand refilled cartridges for it, so why upgrade? It does what I want for scrolling. I have an Epson for office scanning and printing and a Canon IX 6820 for photo work. The Canon can do the 13 X 19 if I ever need, but it's been a couple of years since I scrolled anything that needed a sheet larger than 8 1/2 X 11". Maybe, when I run out of easy-to-get toner cartridges for the Laserjet 4, I'll replace it with something newer, but I just don't see needing a better printer for my scrolling needs right now. Charley

The only repair that I've done on the electronics of a DeWalt 788 scroll saw was to replace the speed control potentiometer of one of the 788 saws that belong to my woodworking club's Outreach Program. The saw on it's stand had not been secured adequately and fell over in the trailer, bending the shaft of the speed control. This was when Radio Shack was still in business, so a trip to the local store found the 10 K ohm potentiometer, but with a 3" long shaft. A few seconds in my workbench vice and a hack saw corrected the length of the shaft and it was an easy installation after that. DeWalt had wanted to sell the complete electronics board together with the speed control potentiometer for something like $70, but I fixed it for about $5. There isn't much to go wrong with the electronics. 1. If you are certain that power is reaching this board (bad fuse or switch maybe) from power plug through power switch and up to the board, and 2. testing the motor leads (without power) using an ohmmeter (to check for good brushes and a few ohms of resistance of the motor windings) shows that the motor should be functional, then the problem has likely to be something wrong with the circuit board. I would make certain that both the power and the motor test good at this point before proceeding with the circuit board repair or replacement. I think the circuit board is the least likely source of your problem. Charley

Barbara, I am a licensed electrician, and see nothing wrong with what you plan to make as long as you keep the lamp wattage low or go with LED light and in either case, leave some clearance and vents around and above the bulb to allow the heat to escape. For an LED or a 4-8 watt bulb you won't need much clearance, as long as air can circulate up through past the light and out through the top (kind-of like a chimney). I can't imagine what design you have planned or what light source you plan on using, but if you keep ventilation in mind when building it, you should have success. Posting a little of the details might help me (and others) better understand if adequate ventilation is an issue or not. I will continue to watch (and comment) on this post as you design and build this. Charley

I don't think he can see emails yet. Facebook seems to be his only contact with the internet world right now. A search for his full name will bring him up. He and I chatted for about an hour yesterday. I had to end it when I did, because I'm taking care of my sick wife and handicapped son. Just too many chores to do right now and very little time to be sociable or for hobbies. Charley

Kevin responded to me on Facebook. He has been suffering from COVID. He had it 3 times. Not doing too well walking now, and in a lot of pain. He had his cell phone go bad and lost passwords and access to many groups as a result of it. Give him a shout on Facebook and I'm sure that he will happily return a message to you. I think he could use the friendship right now. If anyone can help him regain access to www.scrollsawvillage.com I think he would be very thankful. Charley

For your problem, I frequently leave the outside edge square, until the last. but I have also hot glued extension strips to the flat top and/or bottom long enough to support the work on the saw table while I cut near the ends of it. Then I can cut the outside edge or the strips free as the last steps. Charley

I also got a response from him on Facebook, but he didn't say much. Charley

I have been finishing my smaller work, especially jewelry, with clear lacquer spray. Minwax brand is available in the larger wood supply stores here. It leaves a smooth clear finish and dries quickly. The smell from lacquer is gone in just a few days too. All of the other finishes being discussed take considerable time, like months, to be odor free and poses considerable problems when the jewelry is intended as a gift and production is running late. BLO, Tung Oil, Mineral Spirits, Polyethylene, and even Shellac all have long term objectionable odor, though the shellac odor does go away faster than the rest. So I now avoid them in favor of the clear lacquer for jewelry items. Charley

This is what I use. Having one near the miter saw, table saw, scroll saw, etc. and getting comfortable with it will save you from a lot of accidents and near misses. Charley https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-10-Million-Dollar-Stick/dp/B0728GYJ5G/ref=sr_1_1?crid=25MK5SP54JZP1&keywords=10+million+dollar+stick+for+miter+saw&qid=1688086100&sprefix=10+million+dollar+stick%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-1

I use one of these to hold the piece while cutting it on my table saw, band saw, or router table, or even a scroll saw, but I added strips of sticky backed 80 grit sandpaper to the surfaces that grip the part for a better and safer grip. Actually, this isn't exactly the one that I have. Mine is yellow and has an aluminum guard along one side that can be angled to ride against a fence. I can cut very small pieces with this, without putting my fingers in harms way. https://www.amazon.com/Holder-Router-Tables-Safely-Smaller/dp/B06ZYNNFVW/ref=sr_1_42?crid=1KYUUUBKM7X9Q&keywords=small+part+cutting+jig&qid=1687835367&sprefix=small+part+cutting+jig%2Caps%2C110&sr=8-42 Sorry, I can't remember where I bought the yellow one, but if it comes to me I'll update this post. I think the yellow one is the original, but now even Rockler is making one, but of course it's Blue and more expensive. Found It !! - This is the one that I have. https://www.infinitytools.com/router-table-saw-small-workpiece-holder Charley

An easy way to check if the blade is exactly at 90 deg to the table is to take a scrap piece of wood and cut straight into it about 1/16" deep. Then back out of the cut and turn off the saw. Rotate this block of wood around to the back side of the blade and see if the back edge of the blade (not running) will slide easily into the saw kerf. If it does, the blade is 90 degrees to the table. If not, adjust the table or blade angle and repeat the test. Charley

I have a clear plastic block with red filled angle lines that I use most frequently. Sorry, I don't remember where I bought it. I also have a bunch of yellow plastic pieces kind-of U shaped, but with a flat bottom, and each leg of each piece in the set is a different angle in 1 degree increments. Both were bought 20-25 years ago and I haven't seen either for sale in a very long time. The Wixey angle gauge is a good modern way that I use for setting my table saw angle, and this will work fine if adjusting the table angle, if the table is at true 90 degrees to the blade to start with. Otherwise, there is no way to set zero degrees on the Wixey. You can get very close to blade 90 to the table if you take a square block of wood and cut a single width blade slot in one side. Then move this block around to the back side of the blade and see if the blade slides easily into the slot without the saw running. If it does, the table and blade are very close to 90 degrees with each other. You can then use the Wixey, setting it to zero while it's sitting on the table. Then tilt the table to the desired reading on the Wixey. You can get very close to the desired table angle this way, but it will not likely be perfect. The problem is all in how the Wixey zero setting is determined. Charley

I have worked with purpleheart and found that it's color did not remain the same as it aged. It was tough wood to work with as well. If I wanted wood with a reliably purple color, I would go with a wood dye and experiment with the wood used, but would probably go with Birch or Beech and finish cutting each piece before dying. Use the scraps from cutting for experimenting with soak time, etc. Charley

" I have had problems with tear out on top, and fond out I had the blade in upside down. I hope this wasn''t your case' " That will certainly cause problems. The workpiece will be very hard to hold down against the table too. I'm certain that everyone who has been a scroller has done this a time or two (maybe more). Yes, I have done it too. I now rub my finger over the teeth to be sure that I have it right, since I need optics to see the teeth now. Have you ever put the blade in with the teeth on the back side? (I've done this too, but less often). Old age and eyesight causes things like this. It's just something for private laughter inside you when it happens. Fix it and move on, after enjoying this little bit of personal old-age humor. Charley

Between the table and project, most anything with a small hole in it will work, but it needs to be attached to the table so it doesn't move with the project while cutting. Thin and sturdy with a small hole is what you need. My original was very thin plywood large enough to let me attach strips of wood under the edges and against the edges of the saw table to keep it from moving. Now, many pieces of thin plywood later, I don't use scraps of plywood that large and use double sided tape to hold it to the table now. All you need is something to hold the wood fibers up close to the cut so the blade can't deflect them as it's cutting. The down stroke is usually the problem, but if you are having it on the up stroke, something like clear packing tape against the top surface of the wood with the pattern attached to the top of it can work, but nothing will work top or bottom if the plywood isn't made well. Charley