Hi LauraBeth and welcome to the Village from East Tennessee. I happened to be browsing for some other things today in some old magazines and ran across an article regarding working with Acrylic. The article was by Faye Benezue and is ironically enough entitled "Working with Acrylic". Unfortunately, the magazine it was in was "Creative Wodworks and Crafts" which is no longer in publication AND thus it is hard to track down back copies. I have a few a fellow scroller passed on. This particular article is in the June 2010 edition, no. 148, for anyone looking.
I will give you a quick summary of information from the article. First, she notes that while the "big box" stores sell some acrylic, that in her opinion, the quality was not as good as some. Note, this was 10 years ago SO that could have changed. She preferred to get her acrylic from a glass store. She also noted that she had tried with acrylic pen blanks used by pen turners but had not been successful as it would become so hot it would melt back together. This sounds like what you experienced. She doesn't say so, but I suspect it would happen because it was thicker. She also noted that while you can get it in various thicknesses, that she preferred to work with 1/8" thickness for the best results when scrolling. She says she was able to cut any design that se could in wood and that small, intricate designs worked really well for her. She clearly said that cutting acrylic did not work well with stack cutting because the layers tendered to melt together and even if you could later pull them apart. You would need to do a lot of sanding. She also noted that if you did want to try to stack cut, she recommended that you put something between the layers like wax paper, thin paper, or thin scrap of wood. but that even if you did that, you would probably have some places where the acrylic melted it together. She preferred to adhere one sheet of acrylic to a piece of scrap wood to cut in order to have a firmer foundation and give it more thickness to cut beyond the 1/8" acrylic. She used double sided tape to secure the wood and acrylic together. She indicated she preferred to use Oh Line Premium blades - No. 5 for regular cuts and No. 2 for more detailed cuts but notes that these are what she likes, others may have others they prefer. She left the paper on both sides of the acrylic while cutting.
She did say that "the most important thing to remember when cutting acrylic is to GO SLOWLY". She indicated that in her experience, it was best to slow the RPMs down and to keep the blade speed at about 2 or 3. "Take your time, letting the blade tell you when to advance. Don't hurry the blade, otherwise the blade will get too hot. If it gets hot, the acrylic will melt and fuse together behind the blade." She further noted that going to get can also leave a residue, similar to "fuzzies" like cutting wood. She said if you "smell" the acrylic getting hot, your are too too fast or the RPMs were too high. To add color, she would cut two of the same piece, then add a piece of thin colored paper (she liked to use origami paper) between the two and glue it all together.
Hope that gives you some information to try again. I have not yet tried to cut anything in acrylic yet, but it's on the "to do someday" list. I will try to remember this information myself when I give it a try.