munzieb
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Everything posted by munzieb
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Not sure if this will work for you but I have used it in the past. I'll cut 2 small 1/8" tabs a littler larger than the saw tooth hanger. Glue one (CA?) where saw tooth goes and the other at opposite location. You should have 1/4" plus the thickness of top cutout. Mark drill bit with blue tape for proper depth so it won't go thru and pre drill holes. Use wax to lube screw threads. If screws are still too long, I will sand off a few threads on my belt sander to make it fit. The work will stand a little proud of the wall because of the blocks in the back and if the hook extends it more, add material to the bottom spacer. Hope this helps.
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Welcome Steve, Just down the road , east of you, in Boiling Springs. I was actually in Greenville today for errands. Had to make a quick stop at Woodcraft for supplies. Would be interested to see the projects you have been working on.
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That's really nice. The light truly accentuates the cuttings. Great Job!
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Martin, I have used LED lights on 3 lamp projects. Each had special requirements. All of the lamps had enclosed shades or enclosures so no heat generation was very important. They were also candelabra style lamps because of size limitations. Because of the size of the "harps" for the shade, they had to be small. I had tried a round bulb first, but since 1/2 the bulb was encased in plastic, I didn't get the proper lighting effect. Your projects will determine what size and type of bulb you need. There is a large variety of bases, shapes and even warmth of light. Will the light illuminate through your scroll saw work and do you want it to be clear or opaque? You may need a colored or opaque Lexan or plastic to get the effect you're looking for. Lots of choices with LED lights.
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UNCLE!! Scratches are like wrinkles. They are earned and show character. I'll keep scratching, cutting and having fun!
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Not sure about the long scratches, but I did have some long straight cuts. I typically sand off the bottom of my projects on my belt sander after I drill the holes and then tape and punch through with the blade. I'll have to try the wax to see if that helps. Thanks
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Like Rosanna Dana on SNL, "Never Mind" LOL ! Always great feed back!
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I have a question about Excalibur 16/20 cutting deck. I have had this saw since early this summer and am extremely happy with its operation. I did remove the vacuum/dust collection system since it kept trapping small pieces and this seems to be SOP for many EX operators. My one issue is that the cutting deck is starting to have several scratch/swirl marks. I do try to apply packing tape to bottom but problems continue. Before I first bought the EX-16 I did a fair amount of research. The topic of scratched deck came up several times. One suggestion to address this was to have the top powder coated. I could not find this original posting and wondered if other EX operators have experienced this or seen this recommendation. I have a Powder Coat shop around the corner and would get a quote to get it done. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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Thanks Wayne, It looks like the l/h set screw had backed off. Tightening screw was actually pushing blade into set screw hole. Readjusted set screw and mounting blade seems easier and blade twist has stopped. Set screw is a little loose and I may have to use a drop of Loctite to have a more positive friction.
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Thanks Ron, You have pretty much gone through the international forest of exotic woods! I have some nice holly trees in the yard but not ready to cut them down. I have used some holly to do some inlay/stringing on edging and legs of an elliptic table and a couple tumble block turntables using mahogany oak and poplar. Took a few 3/4" diamond shaped blocks to the chest off the table saw. Ouch! that leaves a mark! used an Integra miter and Rockler thin rip table saw jig. Check Munzie's Saw Dust Pile in User Group.
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Dick, Thanks for the welcome. This has been a great site. You mentioned wife's request, mine saw the hummingbird fan and wants me to make one. Does anyone know how to get the pattern. I've searched the web and have seen it but no path to actually get it. Any help appreciated. Happy wife, Happy life!
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thanks, I'll check that.
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I took off the dust collector on my EX-16. It kept getting jammed up with small cut offs. I use a plastic tub under the saw and it catches most of the dust. I just hit it with the shop vac when it gets too full.
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Just checked my EX-16 and it does not have the thumb screw swivel attachment. Since I top feed my blades, now I understand why my lower end of my blades end up with a slight forward bend. It makes it harder to feed through thicker material and reattach the blade and I always have to straighten them out with a flat nose plyer. I just ordered the modified screw and swivel attachment for top and bottom from Seyco. I'll let you know if that fixed the problem. Great forum for scroll saw information!
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Health and it's effects ageing shut me down for a yr.
munzieb replied to Multifasited's topic in Introductions
Welcome back from fighting the good fight. Your Scroll Saw is calling! -
Impressive!!
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That is amazing! Great job.
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I use a HF 9" drill press. It does the job and even handles .002 bits. It's only a problem for larger pieces. I can knock out holes quickly since it stable. Always go for points in an internal cut or Sharpe intersections and angles and back into the cut.
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They look great, especially the finish!
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Welcome Nikki, When I first saw your rose scroll saw cutting I thought it was a school ring until I realized it was a thumb of the real thing. Really nice and impressive cutting. I've been on this site for about a month and there are lots of knowledgeable and talented Scrollers here. I've picked up several tips already. I've been to Sunbury a few times. Nice little town. I used to have some customers at the airport. I'm not a fan of spiral blades either. Happy Scrolling!
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Welcome aboard! looking forward to seeing your projects. Start making saw dust!
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Welcome to the Village. Lots of good folks and good ideas here. I just took a look at Ebay. They had a lot of scroll saw listed, not all top of the line and some used. Some listed free freight and some will ship to Australia. Check their policies and you may find a bargain. Happy hunting and scrolling.
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I used 3m medium grade spray. If I have not properly covered the pattern, I may get some lifting when I am using regular paper. If the pattern is more complex, I will use card stock paper. Even if it lifts, it's easy to tack back down.
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Greeting and welcome onboard! I did some inquiries regarding copyrights. I had bought several patterns from Scrolleronline and built several boxes. My wife wanted to sell them on her Etsy site so we contacted scroller. They referenced their copyright link at the bottom of their site www.scrolleronline.com/copyrights. They are pretty specific as to what you can sell and how your pieces need to be marked but you can sell what you make from their patterns as long as you don't go into mass production and identify the design holder. I have used white rub on lettering on the bottom of projects and clear lacquered over it. Other (for pay) design holders may have other restrictions so check their sites. Happy scrolling!
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Stack cut pieces that have one or more sides beveled
munzieb replied to jerry1939's topic in General Scroll Sawing
That is a beautiful basket and an amazing jig. I have made some similar baskets from Wildwood Designs. I cut all the base cuts on my table saw with long blank pieces. I close cut the sides, marked off angle location and then adjusted my table top sander and crept up on the line with the proper angle setting. Makes a fair amount of dust but came out OK. I may try your jig idea next time I do a basket.
