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jollyred

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Everything posted by jollyred

  1. jollyred
    I see some serious shop time ahead of you. Congratulations on a great haul.
  2. jollyred
    Make some shelves that "snap" into the bars, which would hold them at an angle, and provide weight to help keep them from falling over backwards. Make them about 8" deep and 12" long, then alternate them as they go up the supports. They could be spaced to allow room to hang items from the grid.
  3. jollyred
    I saw Steve's post on this, and made one for myself. I agree it works well. I made mine smaller, though. Makes it easier to store when not being used. I also used a 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum bar for the cutter. Hopefully it will last longer than the wood bar.
  4. jollyred
    I have to sit due to back problems. I use a drafting stool, which is height adjustable and has wheels for rolling it from the scroll saw to the lathe to the workbench to the ..... I try to get the working height of all my tools the same to reduce the times I have to adjust the height of the stool. I also like to sit fairly high to make getting on and off of the stool easier.
  5. jollyred
    I have a bin I built to store larger pieces, up to 4 feet long, down to 1 foot. Smaller pieces get put in a convenient pile where ever there is room for it. Most of my unused stock is kept in a shed. I also have a lathe, so have a bucket to keep the really small pieces, especially exotics, for that. I will often use 3/4" square by 1 inch long pieces to make refrigerator magnets and other small projects on the lathe.
  6. jollyred
    Got mine at Staples. I would imagine most office supply stores would have them or could order one.
  7. jollyred
    I am a lot like the others here with back problems, can't stand for very long. One of the best things I have gotten for my shop is a drafter's chair, basically an office chair that can be raised to the height of a bar stool. It has a back on it for support, and arm rests if you want them (I don't use them, they just get in the way). It is on wheels so it is easy to move from one work station to another. Most of my working career was as a drafter, so this was a no-brainer for me.
  8. jollyred
    I had cataract surgery last year and went from near sighted to far sighted. Now I carry "cheaters" around with me all the time. I just use a stronger lense when needing to see closer. At $1.00 a pair, I have them scattered all over the house and shop.
  9. jollyred
    I have the 4" mop, and use it on a used washing machine motor with a drill chuck mounted on it. It is attached to a board and clamped to the worktable for use. I also use a dust collector about 6" from the mop to collect the sanding dust, and a respirator.
  10. jollyred
    Could try inlaying a piece of the same plywood in the area of the patch. Should look like the rest of the backer when you are done.
  11. jollyred
    Try eparts, they have parts for almost everything. Prices seem to be reasonable. They also show the blown apart machine, which is a great help in finding the part.
  12. jollyred
    Really cool.
  13. jollyred
    Nice patterns. My wife would love the third one.
  14. jollyred
    That looks great. I am planning on making a few of those for Christmas presents this year. Mine are also going to be in cedar, but I am putting a monogram on them for the recipients. I guess great minds think alike.
  15. jollyred
    Steve Good had a video on cutting copper sheets he made from flattened copper pipe. This was a few weeks ago, and can be found on his web site. Might get some ideas from it. Good luck.
  16. jollyred
    If you could tel us what went wrong, we might be able to help with a solution. I would guess you had problems with the thin wood breaking while carving. The answer to that is to use thicker wood, or very shallow carving. Using razor sharp tools is a given. Scroll saw projects tend to have a lot of short grain sections, and care needs to be taken to not break these off.
  17. jollyred
    I have seen where some people use talcum powder as a lubricant. I don't think it would be abrasive enough to harm bearings, but I was wrong once before.
  18. jollyred
    Looks like more than a ton of work went into that one! Stunning job.
  19. jollyred
    They all look good, but the Bee is the best.
  20. jollyred
    When I got my DeWalt scroll saw, I followed the manual's directions on installing the blades. They called for putting the blade in the bottom clamp first, then into the top clamp. I had a lot of trouble with getting the blade into the bottom clamp, since I can't see what I am doing. Also, I have hand tremors, which make it difficult to do anything which requires a steady hand, so I often ended up with the blade in backwards. Lately I have been putting the blade into the top clamp first, then into the bottom clamp. Doing this lets me see what I am doing, and holds the blade in the proper orientation for going into the bottom clamp. By lining up the top of the blade with the top of the blade clamp, it fits very well. Top feeders are probably doing this already, but not telling anyone how easy it is. If anyone is having trouble with getting the blades into the clamps, they might try this method.
  21. jollyred
    Love it.
  22. jollyred
    I am working on a Roaring Lion segmentation from SSWW&C, which will be a Christmas present for my oldest Grandson.
  23. jollyred
    Where did you buy your solo cups and what size are they? Good eye, they are the 18 oz. size. Just a generic from Wally World.
  24. jollyred
    A while back I saw a cup holder, and really liked the idea. I can't find the original post, so I can't credit the original poster. Anyway, I made my own design, and cut it out of 1/2" maple. The bottom is solid, with a recess drilled in with a forstner bit, so it acts as a trivet. Finished with spray on lacquer.
  25. jollyred
    Glad to see someone else who starts on Christmas presents as early as I do.
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