stevan

I didn't think you could buy one of these. I thought they were all home made. Good deal!

I guess two saws are twice as good as one saw. Enjoy.

Incredible!

I only have a lower barrel clamp. The upper is an older style with a thumb screw (that is new) and there is no way to adjust my Hawk either. Given the information my friends have provided, I have concluded that this movement is just inherent to this style of Hawk saw. The only place it is a bit of an annoyance is when I want to spin the work by placing the work against the rear of the blade and spinning it. It just moves that 1/32" and bugs the crap out of me. Maybe as my skill improves..... Thanks Mates!

Everything is in good shape. While the saw is old, it was hardly used when I got it and I have not scrolled enough to wear anything out. I simply put a block of wood against the rear the blade and then hand turn it through one revolution. The block moves about 1/32" (or just a fuzz more).

There is back and forth motion due to the arms going up and down. I think it's common on most any saw. I'm just trying to find out if my is excessive. Yes, I have the lower barrel type blade holders.

I seem to be more aware of the back and forth blade movement on my 20 year old Hawk and I'm wondering if it is excessive or not. I don't really have any other reference than you other Hawk owners. It looks like I am getting at least 1/32" back and forth blade movement. It may be more than 1/32" but it's not 1/16". Is this excessive or about normal? As always thanks for any comments.

I spray adhesive on two sides of a sheet of paper and then sandwich the paper between two boards (or as many as necessary). I then blue tape the top piece and carry the tape over the edges of the stack. I have no idea where my hot glue gun is.

Well, welcome about 2 years later. Impressive work, too!

Very, very nice!

My wife is always warning advising me with "Happy Wife, Happy Life".

I hear Carrie Underwood in the background... Before He Cheats

I started with a $98 Delta from Lowes and for the first 5 - 7 years all I did was cut some hardwood floors for the kitchen (angles and corners and such). Then I discovered that scrolling was sort of an art unto itself and I attempted to use it to do real scroll saw type work but changing blades was a real pain (had to use a tool). I was able to sell it with a lite/magnifier and foot switch for $60 and then I went to Craigslist intending to find a Dewalt 788. There was a nice one about 100 miles away at $300 AND there was a barely used 20 year old Hawk for $450 about 15 miles away. I lowballed an offer of $350 for the Hawk and came away with it. I had to buy a few pieces to get it functional but it's up and running well now. Now I don't have a lot of saw experience to compare with since I've only had the Delta and the Hawk but I'm happy with the Hawk.

Ditto.

Glad to hear things are working so much better and I was just thinking of starting a thread along the lines of "I'm really liking these Pegas #3 MG blades".

My Hawk is about the same age as yours and I cannot get a coin to stand up when it's running at full speed. And there are some "harmonic" vibrations about mid way up the speed dial where I don't think anything could stand on it.

That's quite impressive. I really like the way you did the bottom collection.

I'll shoot some more this weekend.

I "scored" some drawers from the local HFH Restore store this weekend and got a few good looking pieces. I figured for $4 they were a pretty good deal. However, I was thinking I was getting stained oak but when I demolished the boards, I find this (not the ply with two holes in it) and I don't know what it is. I'm hoping someone knows and can lend a clue. The 4 drawers did yield one very nice piece of oak about 20" x 4" x 1/2", 3 pieces of some sort of plywood with thick ply's, several pieces of the above mentioned unknown wood and the drawer bottoms ended up being something similar to luon with a very, very thin veneer on top and bottom of what appears to be an 1/8" thick material that looks like MDF. Thanks for reading.

So I tried this on my 25 (+/-) year old Hawk and almost passed the test. With the saw at full speed the nickel would stand upright for about 2 seconds and then fall over. At the "harmonic" speeds, there was no way the nickel could stand up though. Oh and I had the rear tension lever turned toward the front.

Scroll Saw Village is probably the premier scroll saw site on the internet. Steve Good's is "good" too but he does not get the same member interaction as we do here. It would seem to me that a bad review on the internet's premier scroll saw site could seriously impact a small company like Bushton. It is my hope that Bushton comes through on their promises to Iggy. This could be serious for them.

Wow. Not just a lot of "cuttin" also a lot of "drillin".

Turner, what kind of saw do you have?

Wonderful news and please, please, please post up a review of your new Hawk. I got my "gently" used and I am interested in how they compare (new vs. old)

I run a set up similar to Sycamore67's too. Here is the link to my story: Dust Control on my Hawk however I am now using a repurposed Dyson DC25 upright instead of a shop vac. The Dyson is quieter than a shop vac but I still wear ear plugs or ear buds and listen to music. I now do not need full blown 30 db rated headphones. If I didn't use the dust collection system, I would be using a respirator or dust mask to protect my lungs instead of the ear plugs/buds to protect my ears. I figure it's a trade off, mouth/nose or ears, one has just about got to be covered. I elected to go with ears. Your question was originally about how to keep dust down inside the house and my recommendation is something devoted directly to sucking up the dust at the source via a shop vac (or other dust collecting machine) and a saw specific collection system and since you are in the house, you will still probably have to have some additional sort of fine dust collector in the vicinity. I think being in the house increases your problems by an order of magnitude.