BadBob

Just from looking at the photo, I would not be surprised if EX-21 clamps would fit. Someone here might have an old one from an upgrade that they could send you. I measured mine, and the best I can measure without taking them apart, the mounting holes are 0.64 inches apart.

Buy a bulk pack and cut the ends off.

I have had a good experience with CPO customer service. If I didn't have the money for a better saw, I would try it. However, you should know the return policy in advance because return shipping could be very expensive. I have changed every replaceable part of an EX-21, including the electronics, and they are not hard to work on. A crow's foot is handy to have but other than that there are no special tools required.

I can't smell shellac after about an hour, but it does take longer than that to cure hard. If you thin it with Everclear 90%, you can take a little sip of your solvent. I don't recommend this.

I don't know why but Honda engines are easy to start.

I price the Hawk to sell as I need the space badly. If it didn't sell I was going to see if one of the charities would take it.

Not yet. I need to make space in my shop before buying a Pegas bandsaw. I want one because I think they would be excellent for compound cutting. It would let me cut larger and more detailed cuts. Last year I had someone who wanted a bunch of the reindeer I make with my scrollsaw but much larger than the ones I cut on my scroll saw. I have a bandsaw setup with a Carter Stabilizer and the smallest blade I could get, and I was never able to cut one to my satisfaction successfully. These are not the simple bandsaw reindeer you usually see.

If I had the floor space, I might have kept it. It took about three weeks to sell on the Facebook marketplace, and I let it go for $100.00 with some blades and spare parts. I bought it several years ago, covered with dust and sitting in the back of a barn. I spent well over $100 refurbishing it, and it was my go-to saw for a long time until I purchased a used Excalibur EX-21. It didn't take long before the Hawk was collecting dust. I gave away my old AMT 16-inch saw to a friend, and the Hawk became my backup saw. My EX-21 is my backup, and a Pegas saw is my primary. While I had my AMT, EX-21, and Hawk scroll saws sitting next to each other, I experimented. I cut the pattern using the same wood and blade type on all three saws. There was very little difference in the way they cut. Surprisingly, the AMT saw produced a smoother cut than the other two. For me, blade changes trumped everything, so the EX-21 was the winner. The AMT had to go, and I began a search for another use, EX-21. By this time, they didn't make new EX-21 saws anymore, and no one was selling used ones anywhere within a day's drive. They started making them in China, but these seemed to be junk. After over two years of watching for a used saw, I was about ready to pull the trigger on a new Pegas when I accidentally stumbled across a used Pegas in new condition for sale on the Facebook marketplace. How the ad was worded would never show up in a search for scroll saw. It took me two days to get it, but it was worth the trip. The Pegas had been purchased new and never used. So now I need to clear out enough room for the Pegas bandsaw.

I have a piece finished with boiled linseed oil that still smells after over two months. I have the same issue with Danish oil finishes. I have been experimenting with dipping in thinned shellac. It works well for some things. Puzzles made from poplar work well. Generally speaking, I like shellac; however, I don't know if it would be any cheaper, and it has a shelf life. Even if it is cheaper than Danish oil, it will go bad if you don't use it fast enough. I have experimented with many finishes and don't think a low-cost finish exists anymore. Even mineral oil and wax blends are expensive to make.

Very nice. I love old warbirds. I need to make some more.

Holiday Ornaments for the Scroll Saw Rick Longabaugh & Karen Longabaugh isbn:1565232763

I cut this cross from the same wood as the previous cross. For some reason, it was more difficult than the first one. It took me about three hours to make it. The first one took about two hours. I really should time myself.

Mine too, when I first installed the chuck I drilled a hole in a toothpick as a test.

I have bits so small I can barely see them without some very bright light.

I cut this last night from a piece of 1/8-inch mystery wood. I have a bin full of short, thin pieces of wood that I have collected, and I decided that rather than wait for a project to fit the wood, I would make a pattern that fits the size wood I have. I cut it on my Pegas scrolls saw using a Pegas Modified Geometry 1R blade. I slowed the saw to control it better while cutting the thin wood. Drilling the holes was the hardest part. My bit was almost as large as some of the internal cuts. After removing the pattern with mineral spirits, I sanded it with 240 grit sandpaper on my Shopsmit belt sander and then hit it with the sanding mop to smooth the corners.

I have the Veritas Plunge Base for Rotary Tools. Actually, I have the whole kit for it. It works great for my purposes. I opted for the Veritas over the Stewmac because of its versatility.

You can use the internet to find more paper books. January 1, 1983, is the official birth date of the internet. There were no web browsers. We used things like Gopher, FTP, and Veronica.

About forty years ago, I started with an AMT scroll saw and learned how to use it, cutting small animal cutouts in one of Patric Speilman's books. I cut them from almost anything, but mostly I used pallet wood as I had access to more hardwood pallets than I could use. The ones in the photo were made for my kids, and now my grandkids have them. They are also being passed down from nieces to their children. Does this make them heirlooms? These books are available used cheap ($5) on eBay and Amazon. These are in "Scroll Saw Pattern Book" by Patrick Spielman & Pamela Tubby.

I have a large plastic bottle I put sharp things in. I'm very careful with anything that might get stuck in a tire or foot. Pretty much any sharp thing goes in that bottle. The magnetic tray holds them until I decide that it needs to be emptied.

These are physically on my saws today. Next week there might be something different. You may notice that there are a lot of magnets. I love magnets and have them all over my shop. The blades you see stuck to the magnets are used but not dull. All of my accessory lights are magnetic. Most of my tools are within two or three steps of the saw. I always have the remote control for the vacuum clipped somewhere on me. If I have my shop apron on, I'll have an assortment of pens and pencils, and small tools in the apron pockets. A square for checking my blade. Spring Clamps are used when cutting 3D Pieces that need to be held together. I use a pin vice and drill bit to clean out drilled holes when the blade does not go through. It is also handy for pushing out tiny pieces of wood that sometimes get wedges in the cut. This is a tool I made for loosening blade clamps when they get stuck and/or my fingers get sore. I should add a magnet to this. When I made it two years ago I did not think it would last long. I use a magnetic tray for storing worn and broken blades and other small bits pieces. I don't put sharp pointy things in the trash.

The labels I have, leave a sticky residue that I need to clean off with solvent.

You're doing a fine job.

I have tried spraying mineral spirits, and it always eats up the o-rings in the sprayer. Another method I use to apply mineral sprites to patterns is a wash bottle.

Depends on your situation. How much ventilation do you have, and how big is the shop?

It does not take much mineral spirits. I brush it on with the same brush I use to paint unless it is a large piece. For large pieces, and sometimes if I have a lot of little ones, I will pour mineral spirits on a cookie sheet or other flat bottom container that is the appropriate size and dip them. This method has a downside. I need to let the mineral spirits evaporate before I can do almost anything else to them. The advantages are: The pattern will come off even the most delicate fretwork piece in one piece. I never tried it, but I am sure you could glue it on another piece of wood and cut it again. No more picking bits of pattern and tape off while worrying about breaking it. No more pieces of wood peeled off and parts ruined. 3M77 will stick tight to just about any wood surface. I don't need to do any sort of surface preparation before I cut the pieces. The advantage here is a lot less sanding. It is much easier and faster to sand the pieces after they are cut out. I recently cut some ornaments from a piece of wood with a lot of tear out. After cutting it, a few swipes on the belt sander with a 60-grit sanding belt, and you are done. What I actually use is labeled paint thinner at my local big orange store. I learned while working in a factory that made vinyl carpet backings that this was the same as mineral spirits but somewhat less refined. We bought it in 55-gallon drums. I never touch anything that says it is odorless.