BadBob

Hot glue leaves a small gap between the layers. Unless hot glue is very thin, it flexes. It's hot, which means I can't use it while grandkids are in the shop. Hot glue is messy. I have had several glue guns over the years, cheap ones, and relatively expensive ones. All hot glue guns drip. Then there is the cool down time. I have to wait for it to cool down before I can put it away. Carpet tape works excellent it's fast, easy, and cheap, but it still leaves a gap. Using wood glue leaves no gap between the layers. I clamp in the center first, make sure everything is aligned, and then clamp the corners. Wood glue might not work for every case. If that happens, then I will fall back to carpet tape.

I have a pin nailer and I have used it for stack cutting. What I don't like is that it takes to much time to set up. I have to get it out turn on the air compressor and wait for it to come up, nail the layers together, shut every thing down and put it away. Then there is the issue of protruding nails to deal with. In this case the pieces were slightly cupped/bowed and I wanted to get rid of the gap. Gluing and clamping does that perfectly.

If your like me there is always something else to do around the shop while you wait.

Has anyone ever use wood glue to hold the pieces together. I tried it yesterday—just a tiny drop in each corner and clamp for five minutes. It worked like a charm. For me, the significant advantages are: No tape used to snag or cause the pies not to sit flat on the table. There is no gap between the layers because I squeeze any bow or cupping out with clamps, and there is nothing in between the layers.

I did some searching with google and found a lot of them but mostly they were Corel Draw files. Then I tried adding the file extension I preferred to my search (svg) and that worked well. I snagged a 3d Puzzle for an F-18 I want to try.

I have one of these. It took me a long time to find one that had enough adjustment range. I like it a lot. I have it adjusted so all I need to do to start my saw is relax my foot.

A Badger 155 Anthem Air Brush with Single needle/nozzle sprays pencil lines to 3" spray pattern. I would think three inches is plenty big enough to spray any thing your going to cut on a scroll saw. I used to work with someone who restored cars, entered them in car shows, and had a wall full of trophies. He painted his cars with an airbrush and lacquer. One panel at time. They make airbrushes that spray larger patterns.

I use airbrushes and spray acrylic paints and shellac. Acrylics are no big deal for clean up I use generic window cleaner to clean my equipment. It cost about $1 for half a gallon the last time I bought some. Shellac is more expensive to use, but the cleanup is simple, and if you don't get it all out, a bit of denatured alcohol will loosen it up. I rarely use a rattle can for painting.

I made some Silly Spooks. My grandson named them "The Boo Crew." He likes anything Halloween.

When I am running power tools and my family needed my attention I have them blink the overhead lights. I have lights on my tools so it doesn't take anything away from what I am doing.

This toy might be the prettiest car I have made and one of the most challenging. I'm not sure what kind of wood it is. I thought it was spruce. For some reason, polyurethane would not cure on this wood without heating it in the oven. So I started using shellac. It works great.

I have many of these cars from a variety of materials. I made this one from two layers of 3/4-inch MDF glued together and then cut on my scroll saw. I sanded and sealed the body and applied multiple coats of acrylic paint with a clear glossy topcoat.

Sanding blocks are easy to make from MDF or plywood. I have a plywood block that I have been using for years. You can still get the rubber blocks.

These are not as bright as the harmiey Sewing Machine Light (40LED) 8W.

I use the cleaning sticks, and they work well on fixed disk sanders. I have 12 and 8-inch disk sanders. They also work on belt sanders, but my belts rarely need cleaning. They don't work well for cleaning any handheld sanders I have tried. The cleaning sticks I have were cheap, and they have lasted for a very long time. I figured that if I save one 12 inch sanding disk or 36x6 sanding belt, I got my money back.

If I throw it away I will need it about the time the trash truck gets out of site.

The hook and loop wears out before the grit does. Currently I only have one sander so I have to swap the sanding disks to change grits. I have sanders on order so I can have one sander per grit.

I have cut strips off a sanding belt and used them in the saw, but what worked better was to glue two strips of sanding belt back to back on a scroll saw blade. I use the large blades made for cutting thick stock. I don't use them much. They don't sand the edges straight and square, but if you don't mind the curve they work great.

The latest of many of these little pickup trucks I have made. These are good for using up all those bits and pieces I seem to always have laying around.

I bought a large package of blue towels from Costco a week ago. Good thing I did because they will be gone as soon as this gets around.

Give these a try. I have these LEDs everywhere a standard bulb will fit. They are not cheap, but they are worth every penny. Because of their small size, they will fit in places where florescent curly bulbs will not go. You probably could break one, but you would need to try real hard. GE Lighting 63869 LED Brightstik 15-watt (100-watt Replacement), 1600-Lumen Light Bulb with Medium Base, Daylight, 2-Pack

Used books on eBay are cheap. Some so cheap I don't know how they make any money on them. Amazon used books are some times cheap too. If you have scanned the book, why keep a paper copy?

I scan mine, clean them up with GIMP, and copy them to Inkscape and convert them to SVG files. From that point, it is easy to make them any size I want. I haven't had one, yet that was too big for my printer, but should that happen, I would send the print job to a nearby office supply store for printing. Books are a pain to scan, but compared to what I used to have to do scanning and converting is brain dead simple. Have you ever tried creating a pattern on a 1-inch grid from a poorly printed 3-inch pattern in a book? I was looking at a new book I purchased reticently, and that is almost all patterns and thinking that I should cut the spine off this one and scan it. Add all the pages to a PDF file just to keep them together is a viewable format. Import this into Calibre. Then back everything up and toss the book into the recycle bin. At this point, I have no use for the paper copy. All it will do is sit on the shelf, collecting dust, and take up shelf space I could use for something more useful. It took me a long time to get over, wanting to keep books but after years of watching them fall apart sitting on a shelf or in boxes. I got over it, and I gave away hundreds of them. The bed of my Ford Ranger was near full. I'm still getting rid of books.

I cut a puzzle yesterday and after it was finished I found a crack in one of the pieces. If I had seen this while I was cutting the puzzle it would have gone into the kindling bucket and I would have started over. However, this one did not show up until the puzzle was completely finished. the crack does not go all the way through and the puzzle has been coated with an oil and wax finish. Does anyone know a way to repair a crack like this? I was thinking about trying some thin CA glue.

Just replace it with a new genuine Loc-Line. That is what I did more than a year ago. It was worth every penny. Loc-Line Coolant Hose Assembly Kit Loc-Line Coolant Hose Assembly Pliers Loc-Line Coolant Hose Component