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BadBob

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Everything posted by BadBob

  1. BadBob
    I'm primarily a toymaker. I made toys for girls, and later, when my grandson was born, I started making toys for him. He loves my toys and would keep every one of them if I let him. I have made many fretwork shelves and enjoy making them and plan to get back to them. I don't like portraits and probably would never cut one. I have no problem using someone else's design or paying for it. However, I make changes to almost everything. I like some silhouettes and have made a few plans to make more in the future. Bowls, baskets, and ornaments especially compound cut ornaments. Bowls and baskets are still on the want to try list. I want to make some chess sets. I started one years ago, and my kids kept taking the pieces plus work got in the way. A couple of weeks ago, my grandson asked me to make a chess set, so a chess set has moved to near the top of my list. I sell online, so the business and my grandson drive what I make.
  2. BadBob
    I make toys, and I have seen this repeatedly. One designer admitted this to me after an extended discussion via email. One toy designer has never admitted not building his designs, but he posts rendered photos. Never a photo of an actual toy that he built. When you go to build the toys, you sometimes discover obvious errors and design flaws or parts that are near impossible to make or so weak they are easily broken. All of which would easily be discovered if he had done a test build as part of the proofing.
  3. BadBob
    After trying many brands, my solution was to buy the Harbor Freight 10 pack. Reasoning that I would open the tube, use the glue, and then toss it. For some reason, I didn't throw it out, and it hasn't dried up on me. It comes in thin and thick versions. Current pricing is $2.99 for ten tubes.
  4. BadBob
    Every one of these I ever used dried up shortly after being opened.
  5. BadBob
    I've seen better looking plywood at Home Depot and Lowes.
  6. BadBob
    I use paint thinner. It isn't milky and it is a lot cheaper although it does smell a bit stronger.
  7. BadBob
    I tried the soap and water. No joy. It did reduce the odor to near zero, but it came back after 24 hours. The odor was not as strong, but it is still there. I don't like applying a top coat over any oil finish. So no more Watco Danish Oil for me. I tried it because many had posted here that they use it, and I wanted to give it a try. I tried boiled linseed oil a few years ago with much the same result. It took weeks for the odor to dissipate.
  8. BadBob
    I found posts that said it would take that long, but I could never find the original source. I should dig out my finishing books and see if it talks about this.
  9. BadBob
    Here is what Rust-Oleum Product Support said: I am going to try this. I post the results.
  10. BadBob
    I have an open support ticket on this subject with Rust-Oleum Product Support. They said "generally goes completely away in a few weeks." I was asked several questions about what I was doing and told me they would look further into the issue. A few weeks is way to long for my purposes.
  11. BadBob
    The can I have has stoddard solvent in it. I used stoddard a lot in the military it is slow to evaporate compared to other solvents. It has been a long time, but I think this is what I am smelling. Stoddard is some nasty stuff. I think this can is going to hazardous waste disposal on my next trip.
  12. BadBob
    I use lots of shellac. Mostly amber and all of it is Zinsser brush in the can from big box stores. The shellac they sell as clear is not clear. It is pale amber. According to the manufacturer, the only shellac they have that is dewaxed is the sanding sealer. The sanding sealer is as clear as it gets, and it isn't clear. There is no such thing as clear shellac, as far as I can see. Yes, I know they label it as clear, but it isn't.
  13. BadBob
    The piece is poplar. I brushed it on and wiped it off almost immediately. No dipping. I have some sanding sealer that is almost completely clear. I think I am going to try coating it with that.
  14. BadBob
    Doesn't the shellac change the color?
  15. BadBob
    I make toys and puzzles mostly. I cut a puzzle that I wanted to have a contrasting color on a couple of the pieces. I used WATCO Danish Oil for one of the colors. It has been two weeks, and it still smells. How long does it take for WATCO Danish Oil to cure completely? Checked their website, but no joy. They say ready to use in 8-10 hours. Ready to use is not cured. If I can smell it is still outgassing.
  16. BadBob
    Would these work? https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-Universal-Fence-Clamp-4-Pack/dp/B09Q4LP3FC/ They are called L-Hooks. You can get the from McMaster-Carr although may be to large. https://www.mcmaster.com/l-hooks/ Google search for "L-Hook" https://www.google.com/search?q=L-hook
  17. BadBob
    I use a dowel is inserted into an existing hole in the body to provide a handle and stand. The dowel must be a tight fit. The dowels work well until the toy is heavy. I sometimes use long nose locking pliers to hold the dowel. For a larger toy, I glue a dowel into a hole in the bottom of the toy at the center of gravity to use as a handle. I cut the dowel with a flush-cut saw when the finish has cured. The advantage of this method is that I can paint batches of toys in a small space.
  18. BadBob
    The right airbrush will work well for ornaments. I use Badger Anthem 155, and Patriot 105 airbrushes to spray everything from shellac to acrylic house paint.
  19. BadBob
    Try Pirate Ship. I don't know if they will work with that large a package but they are a lot cheaper.
  20. BadBob
    I picked up one of these years ago for a couple of dollars on clearence. They are quite handy when building with 2x4s. Google "Universal Square".
  21. BadBob
    A baby dinosaur.
  22. BadBob
    That is an expensive piece of plastic.
  23. BadBob
    I would keep both. I have two and would have three if I had space for the third saw.
  24. BadBob
    I use two pieces of wood and some spring clamps for this. I have tried every method, but I prefer the spring clamps because I never need to readjust them. Other clamps will loosen as you cut. I like the plastic/nylon clamps because they will not damage my blade if I cut into the clamp accidentally.
  25. BadBob
    All of my bits but one are Freud Precision Shear bits. The one is Steelex D1019 2-3/8" I purchased for the clock. I could not find a 2-3/8" Freud bit. I don't think they make one that size. The largest Freud I could find was 2-1/8. The Steelex worked, but I was not happy with the hole it cut. Next time I will buy clock movements to fit the bit I have or can get. I had a set of the cheap Forstner bits for years and barely used them until I started making toys. I soon discovered that they drilled ragged holes. I did a test where I purchased one of each brand I could find and bored holes in the worst piece of softwood I could find a "whitewood" 2x4 from home depot. It was not a contest. None of the tested bits came close to the Freud Precision bits. I did not test Fisch forstner bits because, at the time, I could not buy them in the US. I suspect the Fisch bits would work very well.
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