BadBob

I let them ship it back at their expense, but that has only happened to me one time. It's in my shop policies. Much like kmmcrafts, I always try to post a photo with some way the customer can see the size.

I use these for tight spaces. Needle File Set, 10 Pc One way to make sanders for a scroll saw.

Yes, I use tape as well when I'm cutting something that burns easily. Right now, I'm cutting almost 100% poplar, and it does not bur unless I use the blade too long. In one of his books, Patrick Speilman says that the lubrication comes from silicon that they put on top of the tape to prevent the tape from sticking to itself in the roll.

I bought all the patterns last year. I'm working on my first 100. It was a little bit of a challenge to figure it all out, but I think I got it. Only one of this batch was a do over. Something slipped and the roof came out all wonky.

Why would the coarser skip tooth blade cut slower and dull faster? I get the whole idea of selecting the blade that works for you.

It is a Diana Thompson pattern.

I have cut some very nice fretwork pieces from oak. You need to be careful and understand it might break if your blade catches. I have had breaks that I glued back together and kept ongoing.

I read in a post somewhere (here, I think) where they recommended using a #7 or even a #9 skip tooth blade for cutting birdhouse ornaments so the sawdust would clear better. I am in the process of making a large batch of birdhouse ornaments, so I decided to give it a try. I had some #7 Flying Dutchman blades, so I tried these first. No joy. It cut much slower, a tiny bit rougher, and the blades did not last long. I could cut one or two birdhouses depending on the size before needing a new blade. I didn't have any #9 blades and ordered some Pegas skip tooth blades from Denny. Same result. They cut slower, a bit rougher, and the blades would only cut one or two birdhouses before I needed to change the blade. Last night I finished the birdhouses cutting them with #3 Pegas modified geometry blades that I was using before. The difference was dramatic. They cut at least five times faster than the skip tooth blades and lasted far longer. I cut ten ornaments with three blades, and this probably would have been two, but I had a catch that shortened the life of one blade. The wood I'm cutting is all poplar S4S square stock I bought at Lowes except one that I cut from pine to see if the wood made a difference. Am I missing or misunderstanding something? Why would the coarser skip tooth blade cut slower and dull faster?

How would you go about putting a hanger on these? The other birdhouse ornament is easy, but these have a deep recess in the top center where I would typically put a small screw eye.

Try this link: https://www.google.com/search?q=pyrography

Oak looks nice but breaks easily. Your choice of wood depends on what you are going to make.

I had the same issue with some brand-name not so cheap shelf liner. So why not adhere the pattern directly to the wood if you have to clean it up anyway?

Calipers are one of the most useful tools in my shop. I have several different sizes and types. They are one of those tools that you don't realize how useful they are until you own one.

Fuzzies are normal. You can reduce them a lot by your blade choice and some techniques. You can't eliminate them 100% of the time.

I've been considering these. I have some small ones that are for rotary tools. They work OK, but I haven't used them enough to recommend them.

I'd love to have a Sand Flee and a drum sander too.

I have several belt sanders in assorted sizes disk sanders - rarely used drum sanders spindle sanders sanding mops rotary tools with a large assortment of attachments With all of this, I still need to do some hand sanding.

Not necessasarily.Not necessarily. When making small items, it is easier and faster to sand after the piece is cut. Less area to sand, and I have to sand the fuzzies off anyway.

Currently, there are none to be had anywhere. They are probably sitting on a container ship somewhere.

Yep, the blade has to be dead on square to the table to cut puzzles. I keep a small square on my saw to check it. Backlighting when checking for square helps. I once cut a puzzle from 1.5-inch thick southern yellow pine to see if I could do it. The thicker the wood, the more critical it is to be square.

I have tried everything but labels to attached patterns. If I want to avoid damaging the wood when removing the patterns, I use spray adhesive (3M77 preferred) to attach the patterns directly and use mineral spirits to remove them. It works like a charm. The only downside is having to deal with the solvent.

I just purchased a can of Zinsser SealCoat. I had to order it from Ace Hardware. I could not find any within 100 miles of my home. It cost $26 delivered for a quart. Gallons were available, but I used minimal amounts of making toys. Shellac-based products have a shelf life. You can buy flakes and mix shellac yourself. Just be sure to get dewaxed. SealCoat is clear dewaxed shellac.

I think you are missing some parts. There should be a tension control knob on the back of the saw. I used a similar saw for many years. It had a knob on the rear bottom that you had to loosen to change the blades.

Marcus Clemons

Looks like MDF core to me. I would use it.