BadBob

It's two "5000K @ 1800 lumens 16-watts plus three overhead lights 5000K 1100 lumens 12-watts. There is no heat issue. They are warm, not hot. I use F18 because it gives me the depth of field I need from any angle. I'm not shooting flat surfaces. I did extensive testing to come up with these numbers. I never need to change the settings. What would I change? A larger tent would be a great help. A boom light would give me more options. Now I shoot on the dining room table using the overhead lighting. If I need to move the lights, I have to slide the ten around.

I think this discussion in political.

5000k @ 1800 lumens I don't have a light meter; I haven't needed one yet. I shoot all my product shots with the camera set to aperture priority, F18, with autofocus and stabilization turned on. I use a 2-second timer instead of a remote. I did a lot of experimenting, and these settings give me the results I want.

I'm using Cree LED Flood lights I got from home depot for about $9 each when I bought them. They are about $12 now.

I did the math for the basswood picked at random. It works out to $3.46 for a board foot. A bargain.

I could never get the wrinkles ot of the back drops. Hanging them up on the wall helps keep from getting new wrinkles.

I have been using a 24x24-inch photo tent for five years. It works for most things make, but it becomes difficult to use as I approach 10 inches wide. If I replace the tent, I will get a larger one. I have a backdrop, but I only get it out when I am shooting more oversized items. The colored backdrops are pretty much useless. They mess up the colors. Having a blue backdrop is like having blue-tinted lights. I don't use the front piece with the hole for the camera. It is almost always in the wrong place, and it is constantly in the way. I need to shoot photos from multiple angles, and I need at least 15 useable photos from each piece. More light is better. I don't use incandescent bulbs and never will. LEDs don't get hot enough to burn or melt anything, and they put out a lot of light. I have LEDs that output 1600 lumens and are only 15 watts.

I was afraid of that after searching the internet didn't turn up anything.

Do you know where can get a pattern for a rooster clock? Preferably a wall clock, but I can adapt it if necessary.

I have both a lightbox and a backdrop. What you need depends on what you are photographing. My lightbox is barely large enough to shoot a 12-inch item, and sometimes 12 inches will not fit so it is really 8-10 inches. Buy the big lightbox. You will not regret it, but if you buy the little one, you will regret it when something will not fit the first time. Neewer 36x36 inch/90x90 cm Photo Studio Shooting Tent will work for small things. You can cobble something together that will work from poster board and boxes, but what will you do with it after you are done shooting. The lightbox will collapse into a small package the is easy to store. Lighting is the name of the game in photography. If you haven't got the lights right, you are not going to get good results. Please don't waste your money on the little tabletop lights they sell on Amazon. I used LED Floodlights in clamp-on lamps for a while. It worked, but they were a pain to set up and adjust. I still use the floodlight bulbs, but now I use light stands and white umbrellas to diffuse the light. They are easy to adjust, and I can use them anywhere. Light stands are cheap. The LED flood light cost more than the stands. More light is better. Natural light can work, but you can't control it. I'm going to ne using this today: Aluminum LightPhotography Tripod Stand with Case - Pack of 2 Emart Light Bulb Stand, E26 / E27 AC Socket Lamp Holder with Umbrella Holder Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting GE Lighting LED Bright Stik Light Bulb, 15-Watt They don't sell the flood lights I have anymore but these will probably work fine and if they don't you can use them in your shop or home. Just make sure you get daylight LEDs 5000K-6500K and as many lumens as you can. If I were to do it today, I would skip the tent and go with a white fabric backdrop, light stands, and white umbrellas. One tough thing for me to learn was that white backgrounds are not white. They are pale gray. Paper is the same, but it gets graded according yo how white the paper is. The whiter the paper the more it costs.

I cut everything from 1/8-inch to 1-1/2-inch. I stack cut only if there is some advantage, but usually I only need one part. Lately I have been cutting thin parts from the thick wood and the resawing to the thickness I need. That's sort of like stack cutting. I find that when I change from one thickness to another there is s short period of adjustment.

+1 for Denny.

I'm not selling whole sale now, but this year so far the largest part of my revenue is from large custom orders. I'm not getting your kind of money, but getting order for $200 is a big deal for. The same customer three times now. You are making me drool over having a laser.

Ideas I got from customers have made me the most money.

$40 is not to much unless you are trying to sell to the flea market crowd. I have toy cars in my shop that sell for $35 they don't sell fast but they do sell. I only sell online and I found that if I make quality items and price them accordingly someone will buy them. At highr prices I sell less, work less, and have higher revenue. I don't have sales or discount anything except for customers that buy a lot. I have one customer that has spent about $600 in my shop this year on custom orders. This customer gets about a 20% discount but I don't tell them.

I would not buy it because there is no MERV rating and no specs at all. I think you would be better off to buy the filter paper in rolls. I've seen it with ratings up tp MERV 16.

I always buy at least this many per size. The first time I ordered from Denny I purchased 144 of seven sizes.

If you are selling online you need a lot more lead time.

A flock of turkeys.

Christmas season starts in July.

Corner chisel.

I used a box fan filter for a long time and got rid of it because I constantly bumped into it and knocked it over. Plus, changing the filters was a pain. I taped mine on so it did not leak. Unless you are doing a controlled scientific test, I do not see how you can determine if the box fan works better. Having used both, I can say for sure that a box fan has a lot lower initial cost, but not that it works any better. I have a WEN 3417 3-Speed Remote-Controlled Industrial-Strength Air Filtration System (556/702/1044 CFM) that I run at low speed most of the time.

How would you know it never had LP gas in it?

I did disaster recovery as a part of my job for 30 years. It was my primary function for much of that time. Hardrives, Thumb drives, CDs, DVDs, and paper all fail. Paper copies burn, rot, fade, and otherwise fall apart. Anything important should be digitized (scanned or photographed with a digital camera) and stored in multiple locations. If there are not multiple copies, it's not backed up. If you don't have copies offsite, it's not backed up. If you haven't tested restoring your data, it is not backed up. Testing by restoring to a different computer is best. External harddrives and cloud storage are the best backups available. I only buy eterprise grade hard drives. I love USB thumb(flash) drives but not for backups. It's to easy to loose them. CDs and DVDs are slow and only hold a small amount of data. Unless you are are buying archival quality blanks (expensive) they die on the shelf. Delamination is a fairly common failure. This is the trimmed down version. I stared writing this reply and went down a rabbit hole and didn't look up until I realized that I had written more than 2000 words and still had lots to say on the subject.

That's what I do.