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new2woodwrk

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Everything posted by new2woodwrk

  1. new2woodwrk
    I have a Neje - it works very well and is very easy to use Tips: 1. Mount your Neje to a board 2. Get yourself a grid mat and mount it below the neje - much easier to align engravings that way 3. Use painters tape to hold the item when lasering so it doesn't move. Also good if you have to double laser an item
  2. new2woodwrk
    I have 2 of these and one of mine had the same problem With the insistence of a few here, I took it apart and the repair was extremely easy Just and FYI if you change your mind about fixing it yourself
  3. new2woodwrk
    I bought a Cobalt 10" compound and put a diablo blade on it - I am very pleased with it and since I don't use it nearly as much as when I first bought it, it is still a good deal for me. And it very inexpensive and accurate to boot
  4. new2woodwrk
    The smallest I've seen including Timberwolf is 1/8 which I have 2 and that is very small!
  5. new2woodwrk
    I start my xmas building now - we get a lot of requests at this time for xmas shopping items Btw, I love that pattern!
  6. new2woodwrk
    Have you tried Timber wolf blades? I use them now thanks to a recommendation I got here. They make them to your specs and reasonably priced
  7. new2woodwrk
    Here's the thing for me... First I agree with the "not a fan of the sticker" but I think for a different reason Reputation is everything IMO, and you do some incredible work. Putting a sticker on it, "cheapens" it in my eyes and is beneath the quality and reputation you have built. Hope that didn't offend
  8. new2woodwrk
    What size sheet? My old supplier no longer carries it and the new ebay suppliers are up to like almost $3 a 12x12 sheet!
  9. new2woodwrk
    My supplier just got a shipment of China Birch @ $30 per 4'x8'x1/4" sheet. I am thinking of getting a sheet to use for a new line products since 12"x12"x1/4" Baltic Birch is now way of out price point for me Has anyone used this product recently? I know in the past (5-10 years) there were consistency and layer issues with using it, but I've been told with recent improvements it has gotten much better. Thoughts welcome! Thanks as always in advance
  10. new2woodwrk
    My first thoughts are do not sand it but use it as a background Place pieces on in to make a scene Here is an example of one of our first creation using pallet wood:
  11. new2woodwrk
    I know most of you already do something similar or know this, but for those that don't, just thought I'd mention it. I always sand both sides of my wood pieces - puzzles, hangers, portraits etc. When I cut out some puzzles however, the pieces can be quite delicate, small and easily broken if I'm not careful (see a few of my past posts LOL). What I do to avoid that now is, I cut out the profile of the puzzle and retain the outer cut. I try to keep it as a single piece, but if not I will glue it back together - I call this profiling. Once I have all the puzzle pieces cut out, I place them back into the outer cut (the profile) and sand the whole thing as if it were a single slab just as it was before I cut it out. The pieces stay together very nicely, there is very little if any breakage ever and I can get the fuzzies out of the back very easily. Just thought I'd share that
  12. new2woodwrk
    Nope, I appreciate all the input - very helpful!
  13. new2woodwrk
    I've done a few 3d cuts, nothing worth posting yet, but I do have a question In all the reading I've done in regards to blanks - the articles all talk about making the blank square or at least the size of the pattern My question though is: Is this really necessary since you are cutting out the stock anyway. What I mean is: Say you have a 1" x 6" pattern with a fold but your blank is 1 1/2" x 8" does that extra 1/2" really matter when you're cutting it? Seems to me, it would not matter Thoughts?
  14. new2woodwrk
    Nicely done! It does get easier once you've done one. I can feel for you for sure... We've done up to 12 on a single base for commissioned piece - we created it as a Patio door topper! Each Pelican has a name: From grand parents to grand children!
  15. new2woodwrk
    I forgot to mention also that one reason and perhaps the most important is using the food grade Mineral Oil and shellac, makes the puzzles as non-toxic as possible!
  16. new2woodwrk
    I doubt I have the time to let them cure completely before cutting. We create on a 1 week turn around for stock inventory items and customized on a 1-3 week turn around
  17. new2woodwrk
    Lots of great suggestions and greatly appreciate everyone's input I have some canned spray lacquer I may give that a try this week on some test subjects I have too many customs this week to knock out, so it may have to wait until next week I'll update once I do a few runs Lacquer here is a bit expensive however.
  18. new2woodwrk
    No, I have not even considered doing it this way. Wouldn't the finish dull/stick to the blade?
  19. new2woodwrk
    Unfortunately a larger blade does not give the detail of the puzzle for which our customers have become familiar. Larger blade would equate to larger gaps between the pieces - not an option for us.
  20. new2woodwrk
    You don't find the Lacquer causes the pieces to stick together? I've used lacquer in the past and the puzzle pieces were too difficult to get apart and put back.
  21. new2woodwrk
    That's what I do now. Looking for a different finish than shellac
  22. new2woodwrk
    I find Spraying Urethane of any sheen impedes the puzzle pieces. Did you not find that as well when you did them?
  23. new2woodwrk
    Thought i posted this the other day. If dupe, please remove... I'm on the hunt for a new finish for the puzzles I make. I currently follow the @Iguanadon school of puzzle making and finishing (Food grade mineral oil + 1 or 2 coats Shellac). I use water colors and food dyes on various puzzles for coloring, but that does not provide for a nice finish and end up spraying them with shellac The finish was fine for the longest time, but I would like to try a different finish. Something more "shiny" that won't impede putting the puzzle together. I've used spray Acrylic, poly urethane (spar as well) on other projects but for puzzles the finish is too thick. Does anyone know of another medium that I can try that would give the wood a nice sheen without interfering with the puzzle pieces? Thanks as always in advance
  24. new2woodwrk
    We do so many custom pet projects these days. I'll just post a few of our latest... And dozens more!
  25. new2woodwrk
    That pattern is not in a magazine, it is a Harvey Byler pattern and can be obtained from either @Iguanadon (Scott's site, woodcraftbyscott.com) or on woodenteddybear,com)
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