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John B

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Everything posted by John B

  1. Looks good, Can you cut it the other way on the board, that way the whiskers will be long grain and shouldn't break near as easy.
  2. You are not alone in this. Have been there and done that, more then once.
  3. @Scrappile I have a couple of quality 1/4" chucks from an old drill. I have screwed a bolt with the head cut of into the chuck and chuck that in my drill press. I keep the 1mm and another smaller bit chucked in them. Makes it easy. I'm a bit of a hoarder (You never know when it's going to come in handy) so have 1/2 doz chucks or more which I have taken of various drills that have given up the ghost over the years.
  4. It's amazing Marg, I am guilty of forgetting how bloody big our country is and the diversity of areas. The only things we have to be careful of on the roads are Roos, Emus, cattle and sheep. If you go bit North Goannas get large enough to do serious damage to a vehicle.
  5. I have them on my Ex21. I thought the price was a bit steep, but one of the original clamps had stripped so I bit the bullet. Although they work exactly the same way as the originals, they seem more positive. I wouldn't change back.
  6. Paul, no they're not endangered although they are pretty shy. I have never seen one in the wild. When hit by cars (reasonably rare and at night) it is not unusual for the spines to pierce the tyre causing a flat.
  7. Thanks Marg, I have had the same response from The War Office and other's I have shown the echidna to. I rather like him too.
  8. Thanks Charlie. I loved making them for our kids and my Grandson. I think all the nieces and nephews have a few, along with their kids. Now I content myself with seeing the look on the nipper's faces when Mum or Dad buy one for them. The Grandson is 14 , a little old for these, but I take him out bush and let him drive the ute. A fair exchange
  9. @don watson Don, I never worry about the drill bit size. I find that 1/16" (1mm) suffices for 95% of the time. I do have a few sizes of the Micro (Numbered) bits but only need them rarely. The other advantage of using larger bits is I can find the hole to thread the blade through
  10. Les, I use gloss lacquer, two coats, cutting back between with 360g paper.
  11. G'day Miran, I have an Impulse sealer and a roll of shrink plastic. The plastic comes folded in half on the roll, effectively the bottom or one side of the package is preformed. I place the item between the folded plastic, seal the other 3 edges and using a heat gun shrink it tight. You can use bags, but they are quite a bit dearer and they leave a lot of material bulged up around the edges. I like to show my puzzles standing. The rolls of plastic make it possible to wrap larger items.
  12. Jim, The eyes are inset and super glued. Metric Forstner bits make it neat. 15mm for the larger and 6mm for the small ones. They are a tight fit. I put one in the other day and forgot the glue, had to pick it out with an awl and chuck it away as it was pretty screwed up after getting it out of the hole.
  13. Everybody has their own way of doing things, this is mine. I shrink wrap the puzzles with a card with a hint and the number of pieces. If I ramp up, I will include an email address and some other info. I have taken pics of the front and rear of the puzzles.
  14. Finished another batch of standing puzzles. There is a lack of Aussie animal patterns so I made up an Echidna and a Roo. 30mm thick, two coats of lacquer, cut with Olson #7 PG and FDUR #7 A koala is almost ready to be cut. The tray puzzles have pegs for little fingers and cut with a #3 FDUR, will use a #5 next time just to make it a little easier for the billy lids.
  15. Nice work Jim. I love inlay.
  16. Great stuff Kev.
  17. Very Nice. Have my Sister In-law's Xmas pressy sorted now.
  18. Well, I never. Over the past 15 plus years that I have been using a scroll saw, I have always selected my blades on size # +tpi and trial and error to see which ones do a specific job best. Just the other day, I realised that all numbers are not equal. eg a #7 Olson PG is thicker than a #7 FDUR actually a #5 Olson PG is thicker than a #7 FDUR. Never too old to learn new tricks
  19. If somebody gave me one I'd probably find a use for it, but at almost double the price of a 16" drum sander (Which I have) ............................... Nope.
  20. The wolf looks good. What mistakes? = artistic licence
  21. Melanie, the smaller ones would work fine, depending upon the size you wish to seal. I make a lot of children's tray puzzles, typically A4 size so the smallest I could use for this would be the 12" so I just got the larger one, which has come in handy when I have made larger puzzles. I don't use bags, I purchased a roll of the heat seal plastic years ago and have wrapped hundreds of puzzles and it wouldn't be 1/4 gone. The plastic on the roll is folded in half so a 300mm (12") roll would allow you to package something almost 300mm wide by as long as the sealer, you can seal longer by flipping the package over and sealing from the other side eg almost 600mm. You are correct they just seal the plastic and a heat gun shrinks the wrap tightly and with a bit of practice you can get it almost without wrinkles.
  22. I read a review on this some time ago, If I remember correctly the blades will cost you your 1st born a leg and arm at a time, not to mention the special bearings for each size blade. I think I'll just keep on the way I am
  23. Great cutting of nice patterns.
  24. A neat idea and I like the look of the timber you have used.
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