jerrye

Find a local distributor for Coroplast. Construct your boxes from this, and the only thing you'll likely ever have to do is retape the seams. If it were me, I'd make these boxes with tray lids instead of flaps. https://www.coroplast.com/

Do you have a small L-sealer and tunnel (or a seal & shrink machine), or do you seal and shrink all of these with a bar sealer and heat gun?

Most of what Kevin says is great advice. However, as a former professional packaging supply & equipment salesman, I need to offer a correction and a suggestion. Large bubble, 1/2", is not designed for protection, but is designed to be used as void fill. Small bubble, 3/16", is what you want to use to wrap items for protection, as that is what it was designed to do. Always wrap items with the bubble out, as bubble can have an abrasive effect on finished items. Thicker foam, 1/8"-1/4" is a good alternative for bubble, but more expensive. Bubble and foam are both sold at Home Depot for a reasonable price in lesser quantities. For larger void fill requirements, I have found empty.5 liter, or 16.9oz water bottles with the cap firmly tightened, a great option. They are strong, lightweight, and large enough to fill bigger spaces, and if you loosen the cap, you can slightly crush them to fit odd shapes, tightening the cap again after forming them. I shipped a laptop to a former employer using water bottles, and they performed well.

It removes toolless adjustment (unless you permanently adhere a wrench to it), but the first thought I had was replace the knob with a nylon locknut. Scott's rubber band is the simplest fix, which is normally the most elegant.

This is something that I don't remember being said in the other thread, but is important to remember. EDIT: This is doubly important when the length of the flutes is significantly less than the thickness of material being drilled.

I went in a different direction with a recent project. I used craft store acrylic paint mixed 1:1 with water and wiped it on. The pic shows the result, which I and the recipient were happy with.

Looks about identical to my Wen, save for the color difference, and the light and PTO for the flex shaft. The Wen sells on Amazon for around $90, so this price seems quite steep to me.

I have this saw. As Scott said above, the Jet has this shortcoming inherent in its design. No adjustment or special setup will change this. AFAIK, no other saw has this issue. I've not yet tried FD Ultra reverse (Steve Good's suggestion in his review of the Jet), but I plan to. This isn't a significant issue for me yet. I am using Pegas MG blades, and although the reversed teeth never come in contact with the wood, I get little to no tearout. I too will be getting the Pegas clamp set, both upper and lower. If they can be installed in such a way as to engage the bottom teeth, I'll report it here.

That Facebook page has a PDF showing how to make a replacement belt, with part numbers and quantities of belting to order.

Welcome to the village! I'm the newest idiot, and have been accepted with open arms, proving these are good folk. Jump on in! As a newbie myself, I find that for more intricate patterns Baltic Birch ply works well. The finer sections are far less likely to fracture using BB. You can normally find thinner and smaller pieces of BB at Joann and Michael's, places I frequent often as my wife is crafty... A primer on BB, very informative and helpful.

Totally agree on the worth of this chuck for the Dremel! I have the Dremel and the Wen 2305. Unfortunately, this chuck does not fit the Wen, so I have my Dremel in my plunge router base. The flex shaft for my Wen has a lot of runout, so I can't use it for drilling pilot holes.

Here it is. Craftsmart Espresso acrylic paint, mixed 1:1 with water, wiped on with a rag, then wiped off excess with a rag. I'm diggin' it! Now all that's left is clearcoat everything, mount the fretwork to the backer, and affix the sawtooth hanger.

I'm getting these with my next Prime order and giving them a go. They appear to be what the doc ordered. With my Jet saw, the bottom teeth of MG blades don't make it into the wood, so...

Yes, this really is just the second patterned cutting I've done on a scroll saw. I did play around a bit before, but nothing significant. Likely reasons for this is that I'm not afraid of getting my fingers near the blade combined with how I always have tested highly in manual dexterity. Also, a Jet saw using Pegas MG blades helps A LOT. Unlikely reason is that I'm actually that good... I do appreciate y'alls encouragement! Coming soon will be my first attempt at making a pattern from a pic and cutting a portrait for another friend.

Dick, I myself am trying...

Methinks it looks good as is. As for knowing where the flaws are, and trying to deal with them, I have only the following to say: The crafter/creator knows where all of the flaws are. The recipient, unless they are mighty picky and anal, only sees the thought, love, and care for them that goes into a custom made item. Let go of the annoyance of errors, because there ain't no such thing as perfect, and the joy of the one you made it for is greater than any shortcomings in the work.

Yeah, we Floridians LOOOVE our linemen! If you need further help in figuring out any of it, just hit me up & I'll get back with ya.

Sam has about a half dozen lineman patterns. Check them all out & let your BF choose his fav! If you get overwhelmed with requests, I'd be happy to help you cut some.

Details about the framing: the poles are 5/8" dowels, crossbars are 1/4" BB ply, wires are picture hanging wire. Medallion and sawtooth hanger adhered to backer with E6000, poles and crossbars with a pin nailer. Can't see it in this pic, but I added crampon divots to the poles with a fine toothed pull saw by striking the dowels angled down. I heard from the friend that her husband "LOVED IT" so I'm good with it.

I have a sheet of this, and in fact tried scrolling it. The finish is flat white and should do well for enlarging your table.

Second real scroll saw project, unfinished as yet. Cut as a gift for in-laws, they love hummingbirds. Steve Good pattern, 1/4" BB, MG #1 blade. Thinking about a brown acrylic paint thinned to a wash consistency for the fretwork, with the backer clear coated. Any other suggestions on finish?

First scroll work, done for a friend's husband who is a lineman. Pattern by Sam Custodio, Pegas MG #1 blade, Jet saw, 1/4" BB. Finish color by customer request, framing design my own. In framing, I wanted to highlight the lineman aspect of the work, plus, I'm not a normal kinda guy anyway, so...

jerrye here, AKA Jerry. New to the world of scrolling, looking forward to contributing wherever and however I can. Have lived in Clearwater FL since fall 2010; before that, in the Triangle area of NC, where my wife and I originated. Married since September 1981. More than 25 years sales experience, which made up the bulk of my work life. Have 30 years under my belt of church leadership, serving on the lay side of things until about ten years ago. Now pastoring a small church in the area, finding all that sales experience quite handy! Oh, and I do some writing on the side... My interest in scrolling came from a friend from NC Woodworker, a similar site to this one, who does portraiture quite well. He did a few projects for me, making an impression along the way. I have always desired to work with wood, but haven't yet found my niche. I'm hoping to find it in scrolling. Other interests include golf, fishing, alcohol ink on tile and other substrates, and enjoying the sunsets over the Gulf. Thanks for allowing me to hang out here. Anticipating learning a lot, hoping to get it slower than a fire hose!