OzarkSawdust

I thought so too! Lots of people on the sidewalk, and food vendors on the street in front of it. Should be people standing in line that will see it.

We're having our fair this week here in Lamar, so I decided to enter some of my work in the Hobby Show. Lamar is the county seat and we have the old county court house and square in downtown. Instead of being in a building with rows of tables, they have businesses on the square offer their front windows for the show. So I got the use of a window and setup a display. They judged today...and I won first place blue ribbon!! I have to thank all of you folks also for all the tips, tricks, help, and friendship to get better at this insanity we call scroll sawing.

Yea... me too. I often read it and think "do I have the material to do that now? " If not I may get it...or put it in the "to cut later" file, it's a big one LOL. I was just in a hurry when I put it up. I still have a piece I wanted to get in before the judging, but didn't.

Thanks Frank! You might know...one of the few times I don't put any info someone wants it. I just threw it up here this morning while getting the last couple of pieces together for the fair. I've got an entry this year. I cut it from 1/4" Baltic Birch ply. Paint from Walmart...Candy Pink I think was the spray can for the wings, and the ribbon is Apple Barrel brand acrylic in Princess Pink. You'll find that in the crafts. After the fair I'll probably shoot it with a couple coats of gloss or semi-gloss poly. I think it's about 9 x 7 so it could be a wall plaque, or framed, or whatever...I haven't decided yet. I use black table covers on my shows, so it stands out just laying there.

Thanks Dan!

A customer is doing a fundraiser for a lady she works with who has breast cancer. So I thought I would do Sue Mey's pattern for her.

Very nice cut!! I don't think I've seen that pattern, is it one of his new ones? I think it would look super framed.

Yup! When cutting delicate fretwork I don't think I take a breath the last ten minutes of the project! And I talk to it, nice at first..."OK Baby, easy, come on, etc. BUT...If it cracks or breaks...well...I can't put that on this forum LOL I try to "creative engineer" it to work around the break, especially if the broken piece "takes off for the Bahamas...LOL" But, there are those times... like on this pattern there WAS a third tiny little man. He didn't listen to me when I was talking to him and broke twice anyway....SO I WHACKED HIM! The other two look good in the space anyway...and they behaved.

Thank you very much Kevin! The 3/4" corner molding is Pine, I think. The fretwork and backer, that I painted black, are both 1/4" Baltic Birch Ply from Ocooch. I like the quality of the wood I get from them, and I order Tue. morning...it's delivered that Fri. ! I didn't measure the inside of the corner molding, but the fretwork sits in the frame about 1/16 or so...my eyeball isn't calibrated correctly. The local lumber yard has corner molding in 3/4" & 1 1/8", and I think I can get it in Oak also. I got the cheaper Pine to try out my idea. Lowe's and HD are about 45 min. away so I'm kind of screwed for getting decent wood. Some day I'll get a planer then I can use the local stuff. That being said, I cut this, and a lot of my stuff, as a single piece. So I had a tough time with the vibration wanting to break it. I think a lot of folks cut 2 - 3 stack for 1/4" and 2 - 6 stack for 1/8" ! I think I'm going to start doing this as it will stabilize the piece preventing breakage. I tried it when I did "In My Life" the other day. A 4 stack of 1/8" came out good , but I need to practice my pinning technique some. I love your nudes! Tell me, did you use live models during Spring Break..??? So...what did you cut them from? How did you do it? Stack or single? Who's pattern, Charles Dearing or someone else?

Thanks Dan! That sound like a good way to make frames. I think my next major tool purchase may be a planer. Then I can mill wood to what I need, and can use wood from the local lumber yard. Do you cut your blanks to the pattern size...or add 1/4, 1/2, or whatever to the blank size for framing? What size do you cut the rabbit for 1/8" or 1/4" blanks? I haven't done that yet, don't have a dado set and just a cheep Kobalt folding table saw so I'll probably try a router. Thanks for the tips!

Thanks Ron! You've posted some beautiful framed work in the past!!

Thanks Frank! I don’t have a band clamp yet, never needed one, so it was not held tight enough during glue up. Second one will be better.

After we bought and remodeled this house two years ago, I put up a 18 x 30 shop/boat storage building. So I have plenty of room, If I keep the boxes of "stuff" from taking over! About a year ago I happened upon a small insulation company from central KS that was doing a large job in my part of MO. They had a bunch of leftover chemicals and made me a deal I couldn't refuse! They got a little money for chemical they would have to throw out anyway, and I got my shop spray foamed for dirt cheep. The nearest Hobby Lobby is a good 45-60 min. away...one way. The COVID is pretty active in Joplin right now, so I don't go there unless I absolutely have to...and I haven't done so. But they do have a large frame selection! They even have the frames/boxes you would put an autographed football, baseball & bat, jersey, etc. in. I don't mind ordering one online...if I've seen it before and know how it looks in person and the quality, or lack of, but hate to just order blind on that kind of thing.

It's a frame that doesn't have a mat or frame covering the edge of the piece. So it looks like it's "floating" in the frame. By the way...I like your Dead Head ornament!

Good lookin piece Dave! So, when you frame a piece do you cut a rabbit in the frame and inset the piece...or just mount the piece to the back of the frame?

I wanted to do something on the smaller size for my first attempt. So I framed this Keep On Truckin fretwork I did a month or so ago. I used a piece of 3/4" corner molding, cut and glued it. Then took a piece of 1/4" BB ply, cut & fitted it. Then 2 coats of water based Poly, dry over night, brushed some black paint on backer and inside of frame...let dry. Next I glued the backer to the molding frame, put a few drops of glue on the fretwork and carefully set in place. Quickly I used playing cards ( from Tropicana in Vegas ) to even the spacing. Cards are all the same thickness, use same number of cards on opposing sides. When I do something larger, like 8 x 10 I think I'll use a 1/4" spacing...this small one is 1/8". Also the corner molding, 3/4" or 1 1/8", works slick for small items but I'll use Poplar and paint or Oak for larger stuff. Did I do it OK, or did I miss something I should do next time?

Just finished a piece for my son & daughter-in-law's 25th anniversary. I'll send it to them end of the month as I was in the middle of a shutter project for a lady and 3 other projects. It came out nice so I'm going to put it in my display for the fair this week. It's 1/4" Oak veneer, cut with #1 & #3 Pegas blades, with a dip in Watco Natural. I'm going to make a frame, which is something new for me. Probably use a black background of some type, mat or painted. Undecided on a "floating frame" or a frame with no matting or glass, I've noticed a lot of that style lately, just the piece from edge to edge with frame overlapping the piece. Don't know if that style has a name...I've been a "stuff it in a Walmart frame" type of guy till I got my new miter saw (toy) the other day. What would you guys and gals that frame your work suggest? Making frames and picking the right background, other than everything black, is a new part of the hobby I need to learn. I've seen some of your posts with a very nice piece of work...and being framed just really makes it pop! I need to learn that!

I kind of liked the idea of pinning a stack of BB ply to cut. I have a pneumatic nail gun, but it is 16GA and 1" and larger. So I checked my electric staple gun and found that it will shoot 18GA. So I found some 5/8" and stacked 4 1/8" BB ply, slapped a Bobby Riggs pattern, "In My Life" and nailed it! Tried to grind/file the small points, but ended up smacking them with a hammer! They stuck up a little on the top side of the pattern, but worked ok. I kind of liked the way it worked, and with more practice should be my go to method of stacking.

I'm with Les... try to remember to turn it on and off! I've used the timer on my iPhone and just trying to see what time I start and finish. But I get distracted, I like the cut, I don't like the cut, I need a beer, I need to pee, change the music, the shop cat's clawing at my leg wanting fed or attention....etc. You get the idea. I remember to start it...sometimes I remember to stop it...the next day. In my case I'm trying to get an idea of what to price a piece at. How do y'all price stuff?

I looked at the 12", it's a 96T I think. It was my next choice...but it is $120.

I went with the 100T 12" version of the one Karl put up. It should be a fine blade at a good price. If I find, down the road, that I really need a better, higher quality blade...I can always change it. It came in today and I put it on tonight. Sometime tomorrow I'll plug it in and bring life to the saw for the first time! Thanks for the info everyone!!

Great job!! I really like it! Did you just cut the drawing, or make a pattern from one? I want to cut it

WOW! That would drive me nuts...a short trip LOL.

Got a new toy yesterday! A DeWalt DWS779 compound sliding miter saw, and a Delta rolling miter saw stand. I've been wanting one for a while, and trying to talk myself into spending the $599 - 629 for it. I've been looking at the DWS780 that list $629 but can be bought most everywhere for $599. Then I saw an article that compared it to the DWS779, same saw with different light. The 780 has two lights that create a shadow where the blade is, cool, where the 779 has a laser, also cool. The 779 is priced everywhere at $549 and I was thinking of paying the $50 to have the blade shadow...till I saw the 779 at HD for $389...$160 less!! I didn't care for the way the DeWalt rolling stand ($229) folded, HD had a nice Rigid rolling stand ($219) But then I checked Lowe's. They had a Delta rolling, stand just like the Rigid, for $189...$30 less. But the 779 was priced at the normal $549. So I called the manager and talked, shamed, him into matching HD...LOL. So I hit the highway, and about 45min. later I had a new toy, and saved a little over $190 on the setup ( I get a little discount at Lowes for being a veteran). NOW... I need your input. I was so happy with the price that it didn't dawn on me that it's mainly a "construction" saw...and came with a 32T general construction blade. While it's a nice blade that would be great for 2x4, 2x6, and 4x4s it would make a mess of the types of wood we all use...LOL. So I'm just going to order a blade from Amazon and save the drive. I'm thinking Carbide Tip...? Also out of the normal 60T, 80T, 100T, and I think there's even a 120T I'm thinking a 80T would give me a very smooth cut on all the types of wood we use. If I build something else from 2x4s or the like I'll just throw the 32T back on. What blade do you think?

Damn you Rolf! Just when I thought I was getting a nice complete shop...you go and show me something I've "got to have"! Just put it on my "Wish List". That is one cool drill press !!! Congratulations on your new toy! Do you have to take classes to learn to use it? I watched the video, I've never heard of it but it can really do some neat stuff. I think your new toy trumps my new toy, DeWalt 779 compound sliding miter saw.