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Eplfan2011

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Everything posted by Eplfan2011

  1. Dang simple and effective, thanks Dick I'm going to try this one.
  2. Love it !!
  3. Thanks Dick, I put a lot of my progress down to the advice all of you offer. I don't think that's there is another place on the internet where folks take so much of their time to offer advice and solve problems. I'm a little hard on myself as I come from the " if it's worth doing it's worth doing right " clan. As I said in the op having eventually worked out how to handle and spin the wood it's becoming enjoyable instead of frustrating. Anyway thanks to everyone for the encouragement and advice you should all be proud of yourselves!!!!!
  4. Don't forget I'm only a beginner For the inside ones I've been cutting up to the point backing up and spinning the blade 180 into the waste and going in backwards then cutting out. The outside ones I cut to the point and spin 360 into the waste and then back up the other side. The only drawback is it takes so much time. I was really tempted to just turn them, but I'm not good enough to keep the edges square doing that, I round them off.
  5. Being a fairly new scroller I think it's something we all struggle with when we start. I've had times where it's took me longer to thread the blade than cut the hole
  6. Today's offering is another Steve Good pattern. Cut on 12x12in BB and a #1 FD polar blade. Normally I'll use a spiral on these sort of patterns but I'm trying to practice my control,hand placement and accuracy with a straight blade. Ive been at this scroll sawing about 4 months now if you take out a forced vacation due to a injury, and I've only just realized how important hand position and pivoting is! I've spent all this time trying to feed my wood round corners and recently discovered how much easier it is to use one hand as a pivot and one to drive... Duh At this rate I'm going to have to spend a month finishing a lot of this stuff ive been cutting. Any how fresh off the saw pattern on and off. Thanks for looking! Comments welcome
  7. Same piece ....
  8. I've added the picture sorry
  9. The better half asked me to cut this for her. I'm more comfortable cutting trying to cut something like this on the hawk as it's more forgiving, but I thought I'd give it a go on the more aggressive Delta. Just to make it more difficult I decided to use the more aggressive MGT blades too (normally I use a less aggressive blade on the Delta) Well I must admit I struggled with this Steve Good pattern but I did manage to get it cut even though it took me a while. Fresh off the saw
  10. Kevin, I pretty much agree to most of what you stated above. In my hawk I almost exclusively use pegas mgt blades as the saw is pretty gentle and the aggressive nature of the blades seems to be a perfect match. The Delta on the other hand is so aggressive that the MGT blades tend to run away with me regardless of saw speed, unless I'm sawing thick wood. I understand that this is down to my lack of skills, which I'm working on and on this saw I prefer FDUR blades but lately I'm gravitating towards the Fd polar instead. I've found working on my hand placement and trying to keep the wood moving while cutting has improved my cutting more than anything else, right now I'm working at trying to be consistent.
  11. Thank for your reply Wichman, very enlightening. I like the polar blades too, I find them easy to control for a beginner like myself. They were recommended to me by an experienced scroller.
  12. Thanks Jim, I'm not looking for a answer just your insight, my goto is also a #3 mgt. My blade collection has grown but now I have choices and that's confusing
  13. I know the subjects been beat to death but ..... Not makes or types but size. How do you more experienced guys/gals go about choosing the size of blade to use on a project? Wood thickness How tight of turns on project Largest/smallest possible How familiar you are with one blade I know at least one person who will say I use a #5 for almost everything. I'm curious because most of you could cut most patterns with any blade you own. I'm sure if there was a chainsaw blade you could use that too! So your reasonings please ...
  14. All seems good, took the upper blade holder off pulled out the set screws and cleaned some hard gunk out. I'm going to guess pine sap mixed with sawdust, I never did check when I bought it used.
  15. Needed a quick project to test out the hawk being as it was acting up. Found this Steve Good candle holder so decided to go with it. Going to have to have a weekend sanding and finishing soon as stuff is building up
  16. Totally agree some nice pieces there!
  17. Yep thought of that too Ray or even make me some new blade holders. As I said to Kevin earlier I think all's good now, just cut another quick project and I've had no problems.
  18. If you compare it to the original there's a couple of bits missing, I slipped ....so I cut it off the other side too.
  19. Thanks Kevin. Might have found the problem, a build up of gunk in the top of the bladeholder. It was allowing the blade to slip past the stop, therefore the tension was off every time it slid passed needing more force on the screw to hold the blade, more tension more force on the screw.... It's been ok since, a little bending on #2.0 blade but not bad. My father in law has a small machine shop ( before he retired he was a toolmaker) and I'll get him to turn the ends flat, maybe see if he can replicate the spinning ends.
  20. First off thank you FrankEV, as soon as I saw this pattern I just knew I had to try it. I do apologize for butchering it but I really enjoyed cutting it! Another one for the sand and finish pile. I'm going to see if I can find a piece of live edge or at least a decent piece of solid wood and try it again, because I'd love to hang this somewhere.
  21. Does anyone have a solution to "hockey pucking" on my vs226 ultra upper blade holder, here's what I've tried so far. Adjusted the little set screw that the blade is clamped againt. Roughened the tips of the set screw and clamp screw with 80 grit sand paper. Tryed backing off tightening the clamp screw to a point where the blade slips out. Roughened up blades. Short of making a pegas style screw with a floating end any other ideas? ( Pegas screw is a 1/4 fine thread hawk is a quarter course thread)
  22. I'm in agreement with Kevin, I'd certainly have no problem finding a spot for it !
  23. You're probably right Frank. I've been jumping between spirals and straight blades, but I needed to knuckle down and get some straight blade practice. In fact my first attempt was in 1/8 but my straight blade skills weren't good enough..... TBH I'm a rank amateur trying to cut big boy things, but I learn a lot along the way.
  24. Smart man !
  25. Its just a piece of wood with holes in it, I'm over it, next
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