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work shop layout???


dwssr2

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I am looking for suggestions on work shop layout, for  and tools and machines.  I am planning on changing my shop around, mostly because I have to take everything off  the outside walls so I can insulate.  Hopefully  I can have a little heat in cold weather.  My shop is impossible  to heat as is because of 8" block wall conducts cold too good.  The shop is like an ice box, I have been in there a lot in cold weather, since I love being in my shop so much.  Maybe better to be a little cold than too hot.   I have to carry all my projects to the den to glue and finish in cold weather.  My work area is only about 10 feet x 12 feet.  This is where my 2 scroll saws and work bench is.  My first question is about the work bench.  I want to do mostly scroll saw, puzzles and fret work and such.  I also do other projects such as small boxes and such.  I have a planer, band saw, table saw drill press, joiner, sanders,  in the other half of the garage.  

My first question is about the work bench,  is it better to have the bench so I can access all sides and ends or have it along the wall?  I have my bench along the wall probably  because of the small size of the shop.  I can move it to the center if this would be better.  

I will have lots of more questions.  If anyone wants to offer suggestions about this or other things about shop layout that would be great.  Pictures are worth many words.                                                         

Thanks  dan  

Edited by dwssr2
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Put the bench on locking casters. I wouldn't go any lower than 3 inches. I find the common 2 inch caster will tend to bind with weight. Caster are rated by weight and size. Look into putting foam sheets against the wall with plywood outside that to keep it from burning. Infrared heat is nice since it heats you directly. RJF

https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=Infrared+shop+heat+wall+mount&s=review-rank&qid=1564875995&ref=sr_st_review-rank

Caster-Concepts-Catalog-2016.pdf

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Here's a few thousand or million words. Shop layout helps on thinking out your 'Work flow'. For instance people bring wood in and break it down. Then edge it, then plan it, then cut it to finish length. Assemble, Finish. Each step is in one area. The shop can be laid out straight line, in coves that four areas are accessible, like standing in the middle of a square or even triangle, which many kitchen work flows are setup. Look though pictures at the size of the shops, storage, machine usage. Some put the work bench in line with the table saw and use the bench as added length to the table saw. Entire articles and books have been written.RJF

https://www.google.com/search?q=workshop+layout+pictures&tbm=isch&source=univ&client=firefox-b-1-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi-sYK-hejjAhWLbc0KHeQrDKYQsAR6BAgIEAE

Edited by teachnlearn
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all my machines and benches are on casters,  I thought I was the first to think of this idea and now I see a lot of people use them.   My first work bench was made out an old streacher brought home form work at the hospital, it works fine, and my second work bench is made using 2 bed side stands and a discarded heavy door, from the hospital of course.  

I did want to install a vented gas heater, but that might be too much work, hole in wall and permeant.  

I wonder how much it cost to run an electric heater?  What size breaker and wire would be required for a heater?  

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10 hours ago, dwssr2 said:

all my machines and benches are on casters,  I thought I was the first to think of this idea and now I see a lot of people use them.   My first work bench was made out an old streacher brought home form work at the hospital, it works fine, and my second work bench is made using 2 bed side stands and a discarded heavy door, from the hospital of course.  

I did want to install a vented gas heater, but that might be too much work, hole in wall and permeant.  

I wonder how much it cost to run an electric heater?  What size breaker and wire would be required for a heater?  

Check your room size. If you want electric, look at your electric bill and check how much per kilowatt, or call the company. A kilowatt is 1000 watts per hour. Find the electric heater and download the manual from the buy site or the mgr support. Look for watts. If it shows amps, multiply that times 120 and you have watts. Divide by 1000 and multiply by the cost, usually something like 6 cents .06. That will give you the cost per hour. Average portable heater is 1500 watts / 1000 is 1.5. Multiply times the cost, for this 6 cents. 1.5 x .06 equals .09 or 9 cents an hour. RJF

BTU, ROOM SIZE

https://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html

Edited by teachnlearn
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I've recently moved and configured my shop to a more confined space - it is now a 1 1/2 bay garage that is shared with a  treadmill, exercise bike, lawn tractor w/snowblower and a myriad of garden tools, ladders and other "stuff" - the things that I think became important in the layout (and worked out to be good) were:

1) put my main workbench on the floor away from the walls  (tends to keep it clean - it was previously on the wall meaning that it became a "storage" location for other "stuff"),

2) I worked hard at placing equipment so that it would not need to be moved for longer pieces - those pieces that needed to be chopped, planed or resawn - in the end I was really pleased with how this effort turned out - my long pieces were able to be accommodated by: 

a) locating my chop saw along the wall and keeping the rest of the wall clear to allow for longer pieces.

b) locating my band saw so that long pieces can be accommodated by opening the outside door

c) raising my planer so that long pieces were able to float over my bench.

d) locating my jointer so that long pieces can be accommodated by opening the outside door

e) locating my table saw so that long pieces can be accommodated by opening the overhead garage door.

 These placements were a pretty big deal - in my old shop - (although I loved it) - dealing with long pieces was a nightmare - always meant moving multiple pieces of heavy equipment - then moving it all back - basically a pain in the ***.

Finally - if you're dealing with cold weather don't just think of heating - think also of insulation - it is not a big deal to glue styrofoam sheet insulation to the inside of the blocks - even 1" of foam will make a huge improvement in your comfort.  Also think of putting your main workstation away from the wall so cold spilling down the wall does not end up on your feet - and finally - at this same workstation - place a small stool to keep your feet off of the concrete floor.

Good luck - show us pictures of what you do.

 

Jay

Edited by RangerJay
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I don't have many suggestions, except to say that you might want to divide your space between dust creating machines and a dustless area for final work and finishing. My basement shop is divided this way and it allows me to work on other projects in one space while others are drying in the "clean space". Aside from that, virtually everything is on wheels except my mini lathe, chop saw, Scroll saw, and work bench.

Hope this helps!

Edited by Scruffydog
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Okay, I am going to show this picture, I want no nasty comments about my mess...  it is what it is, I am what I am......

I have two workbenches in my my little shop.  I made the one against the wall because I had the cabinet for it and seemed like a good idea.  The roll around cart was in my garage sitting with little use.  I hated working at the stationary or stationery (?) one, seemed like the wall was alway in the way and I was in a restricted area.  I worked mostly on my table saw... So I brought the cart in and loved it enough to put a new top one it.  Adjusted it so it is the right height that I can use it as an extended outfeed table for my table saw if needed, coarse that means I have to clean it off.  But I love the mobility of it and I love being able to work on it from any side.  I still have the stationary or stationery (?) one, because I need the drawers and cupboard space.  The real solution would been to make the mobil one into a roll around cabinet one and eliminate the stationary or stationery (?) (okay that is "stationary" I finally looked it up).  That way when not in use I could roll the mobile workbench into the area the stationary one was... that would really open up my shop... One of those projects I am going to do "some day".

The purpose of this whole dissertation is to say, in a small shop where space is at a premium, I would vote for a mobile workbench.   

"And that's the truth"

IMG_3876.thumb.JPG.664a51eb4e5e854f872ad216a8915fb8.JPG

Edited by Scrappile
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8 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Okay, I am going to show this picture, I want no nasty comments about my mess...  it is what it is, I am what I am......

I have two workbenches in my my little shop.  I made the one against the wall because I had the cabinet for it and seemed like a good idea.  The roll around cart was in my garage sitting with little use.  I hated working at the stationary or stationery (?) one, seemed like the wall was alway in the way and I was in a restricted area.  I worked mostly on my table saw... So I brought the cart in and loved it enough to put a new top one it.  Adjusted it so it is the right height that I can use it as an extended outfeed table for my table saw if needed, coarse that means I have to clean it off.  But I love the mobility of it and I love being able to work on it from any side.  I still have the stationary or stationery (?) one, because I need the drawers and cupboard space.  The real solution would been to make the mobil one into a roll around cabinet one and eliminate the stationary or stationery (?) (okay that is "stationary" I finally looked it up).  That way when not in use I could roll the mobile workbench into the area the stationary one was... that would really open up my shop... One of those projects I am going to do "some day".

The purpose of this whole dissertation is to say, in a small shop where space is at a premium, I would vote for a mobile workbench.   

"And that's the truth"

IMG_3876.thumb.JPG.664a51eb4e5e854f872ad216a8915fb8.JPG

Ok Paul, now show us the rest of your shop. I know there is more. I've seen it. You have got have at least twice what I have. I've got 9 x 13 and it is jammed. 

 

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I just receive this link in a Wood Magazine  e-Newsletter.  Maybe it will be of some planning help;

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/shop-organization/shop-layout-grid-and-tool-templates

By the way, my shop is the size of a one car garage, around 20' x 15.5', heated and cooled,  attached toilet, refrig and computer nearby, and I am very happy with it.  Nice if it was bigger so I didn't have to move tool around to do what I want to do, but I'll take it,,, well I have for 38 years.  I have built a 17' kayak and a 12' sailboat hull in it.  May have had to open the bathroom door at one end  and the back exterior door at the other end, to plane and rip the stringers and gunwales.

Edited by Scrappile
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On 8/4/2019 at 3:29 AM, dwssr2 said:

all my machines and benches are on casters,  I thought I was the first to think of this idea and now I see a lot of people use them.   My first work bench was made out an old streacher brought home form work at the hospital, it works fine, and my second work bench is made using 2 bed side stands and a discarded heavy door, from the hospital of course.  

I did want to install a vented gas heater, but that might be too much work, hole in wall and permeant.  

I wonder how much it cost to run an electric heater?  What size breaker and wire would be required for a heater?  

By the way, 'MOST' home wire is 12 gauge. 'MOST' homes have 15 or 20 amp breakers. that breaker will normally be used for a group of wall outlets, not expecting all to be pulling 15 amps. If something is pulling more than a separate breaker is put in, and the right wire gauge run for that item. IE dryer, furnace, AC. Be careful  running your own line. Its worth having a lic electrician to do it. If its too much, you may be able to help pull wire, drill holes and drop the cost as a helper. When a house sells and its found a line wasn't run right, wrong gauge, no permit, its going to cost again to pull it and have a electrician run it.

For extensions, there are charts on the amount of amps and the length. The extension cord itself acts as resistance and starts heating up. To much pull and its a melted extension or fire. Especially electric heaters which are pulling 15 amps already.

Any work I do I use a 10 gauge extension cord. Its normally 12 gauge in the wall, so a 10 gauge is one size larger. Since my past profession was electrical engineer, I would be very embarrassed starting a fire with an extension cord, not knowing my wire gauges. RJF

Edited by teachnlearn
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Layout a work shop?  That would imply it was empty to start with, in my case when I move if there is a work shop, that is where everything goes that does not have a specific place.  Then it gets weeded out, and what is left, piled here and there, is placed in the nearest empty spot.

My shop shares woodworking with harley parts and tools, and .....

Layout a shop - what an interesting idea

ROFL

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If my memory is correct there is a thread devoted to pictures of workshops. I can't seem to find it but I'll bet Admin can. You may want to just look through them, I remember lots of posts there. It's a great way to pic up ideas and you can always PM someone if you have a question about their space, layout or equipment.

I've had a shop since 1979. I find that they are similar to 'living organisms'. They keep evolving with new equipment, new types of woodworking projects and changes in you skills and abilities. 

Edited by oldhudson
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On 8/7/2019 at 11:12 PM, Woodmaster1 said:

I have a area that is 15'x30' with an added area 5'x12' for a total of 510 sqft. It's not enough because I can't buy anymore tools there is no place to put them. My wife refuses to give up her half of the garage.

14 years ago, we built a new house because I refused to give up my half of the garage. 😉☺️ Now, I have invaded his “shop” and it’s not big enough. (It’s one full garage bay plus some. 😉🥴)

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