Frank b Posted March 2, 2020 Report Posted March 2, 2020 Hi guys, new to scrolling, old at woodworking. Whenjoy cutting out a pattern do you cut to the line or cut widea and sand to the line? OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Roberta Moreton Posted March 3, 2020 Report Posted March 3, 2020 I cut ON the line (mostly). That is the goal in scrollsawing. If you straw from the line Slowly Ease back to the line. No jerky moves back to the line. Hope that helps. amazingkevin, OCtoolguy, scrollingforsanity and 1 other 2 2 Quote
dgman Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 As a scroll saw instructor, I teach my students to try and split the line. Sure, there are exceptions but generally, split the line. If you stray off the line, make a gentle, gradual return to the line. It is less obvious than a sudden return to the line. OCtoolguy, amazingkevin and planeur 1 2 Quote
new2woodwrk Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 My goal is always to tread the line. However, usually I'm the only one who can tell if I missed. So, my suggestion... Do your best with the line and don't sweat the small stuff. In the end, it's all small stuff planeur, OCtoolguy, JimErn and 1 other 2 2 Quote
kmmcrafts Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 Oh boy.. I didn't know I was supposed to try to follow the lines.. When I first started cutting I always cut just inside of the line.. and in some cases on really thin bridges or cutting real close to the next cut.. sometimes I'll cut inside as to make more room for that areas to give a bit stronger ridge.. I do this as a gradual move as the others said.. if you get off the line just gradually move back to it.. Being supper precise "most times" isn't needed.. but in some types of cutting projects you do need to be right on the line.. a wood gear clock would need to be pretty precise I think.. but just cutting pictures and things of that nature.. not so much.. Being a newbie I'm guessing you aren't attempting to do some crazy gear clock or something of that nature anyway. scrollingforsanity, planeur, amazingkevin and 1 other 2 2 Quote
Scrappile Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 Also, remember the scroll saw blade, is about the thickness of a sharpen pencil lead (I know it is not really lead). The point is, not even you will notice is you stray a little after the pattern is removed. Don't over worry it. The only time I intentionally go off the line is for the reasons @kmmcrafts mentions, and if I am cutting slots and tabs that will hold something together. Then I cut inside the line to give me room to sand or file adjustments for a good fit. amazingkevin, scrollingforsanity, planeur and 1 other 2 2 Quote
Bill WIlson Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 Look the pattern over carefully, before starting. If there are places that are very narrow and fragile, you may want to cheat on one side of the line or the other, whichever adds more strength to section that may be prone to breakage. Also, some patterns require assembly. Parts have to mate well in order to fit correctly, such as tabs & slots. Just be sure that whichever side of the line you choose, that it provides the most accurate fit. Then be consistent. I try to avoid sanding to a line. If I need a perfectly straight line to mate up to another piece, I'll always try to make that cut on the table saw or the radial arm saw. That isn't always possible, but if I will do all I can to avoid sanding to get cuts to match a line. For general, internal cuts that aren't critical to assembly, I never sand. Make the cut as smooth as possible and be done. If you've wandered off the line a bit, once the pattern is removed, no one is likely to notice. OCtoolguy, planeur and amazingkevin 1 2 Quote
Sycamore67 Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 Many are answering this from the perspective of fretwork. Each style of scroll sawing is a bit different. With cutting puzzles does not make too much difference and one needs smooth cuts. I do more Intarsia and I try to cut half the line. Always cutting on the line will lead to cumulative gaps with fit problems. planeur, OCtoolguy and amazingkevin 1 2 Quote
amazingkevin Posted March 5, 2020 Report Posted March 5, 2020 These are great questions and answers!!!! OCtoolguy 1 Quote
teachnlearn Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 If the lines are for patterns all the info given is great. If there is joining involved, recognize 'kerf'. Since you have years of wood working your background will guide you how to handle kerf. RJF Quote
planeur Posted March 7, 2020 Report Posted March 7, 2020 Thanks everyone for your opinion , very instructing ! Personnaly , I find that cutting on the line is more diificult because the line and blade are same color, and one at the back of the other. I have a good view and a lamp over my saw! Probably it's because I am not enought pro in cutting..... but it.s coming! planeur Quote
teachnlearn Posted March 7, 2020 Report Posted March 7, 2020 3 hours ago, planeur said: Thanks everyone for your opinion , very instructing ! Personnaly , I find that cutting on the line is more diificult because the line and blade are same color, and one at the back of the other. I have a good view and a lamp over my saw! Probably it's because I am not enought pro in cutting..... but it.s coming! planeur Some folks print the pattern in a different color. Permanent markers can tint the blade. Lighting, brighter, dimmer, table shine reflection and using a magnifier are some things to consider. Almost all of these are past topics or can be answered. RJF planeur 1 Quote
planeur Posted March 7, 2020 Report Posted March 7, 2020 Merci Rick, good suggestions ! Have a good day! planeur Quote
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