Tearout on top

[JustSomeOldDude]

Im getting a lot of tearout on top when cutting 3/16 plywood.
I expect it on the bottom but,
is there any way to minimize the top laminate from suffering tearout or popping up in detailed areas?

[JimErn]

If you are cutting ply wood from the big box stores, that IMO is most of the problem.  The veneer layer on regular plywood is not as well pressed as it should be.

If you are cutting baltic birch plywood, as most of us do, that is a different story.  Is the wood jumping as you cut. apply a little more downward pressure on the wood if so.  

What machine, what blade?

[JustSomeOldDude]

27 minutes ago, JimErn said:

If you are cutting ply wood from the big box stores, that IMO is most of the problem.  The veneer layer on regular plywood is not as well pressed as it should be.

If you are cutting baltic birch plywood, as most of us do, that is a different story.  Is the wood jumping as you cut. apply a little more downward pressure on the wood if so.  

What machine, what blade?

Yep it was Lowes hardware 3/16 plywood. 

[dgman]

Make sure your blade is mounted correctly. The teeth should be pointing down and facing you. If that is correct, use a smaller blade. Cutting 3/16” plywood, you should use a small blade like a #1 or #2. 

[new2woodwrk]

1 hour ago, JustSomeOldDude said:

Yep it was Lowes hardware 3/16 plywood. 

Yah, this was my biggest mistake when I started.

I figured: It's convenient and cheap so what the heck.

Problem was, like you, as I cut the veneer would break off and I would be left with a crappy looking cut

There are a few threads here as well as the Resources link at the top where you can get decent Baltic Birch plywood at reasonable prices.

Do yourself a favor and go that route. Otherwise, like me you'll be kicking yourself thinking you're no good at this.

It makes a world of difference when you use decent wood.

[fredfret]

If using reverse tooth blades make sure the reverse teeth do not come to the top layer of your plywood. 

[FrankEV]

I second the comments not to use the cheap plywood availble at Lowes or Home Depot. 

I have two additional suggestions:

1. I do use the Baltic Birch Plywood that is available in 1/8 and 1/4 thick x 12" x 24" panels.  However, I actully prefer to use Columbia Forest Products 5/32 or 1/4 in. X 1 ft. x 1 ft. 7 in. PureBond Plywood Project Panel (10-pack) that I get delivered directly to my home from Home Depot  It is  available in Maple, Oak, Cherry, Mahogany and Wallnut.  I use mostly the Maple and Waldnut.  Cost is In the $30 per box range depending on the wood.  At about $3 / panel it is a lot less exspensive than solid wood panels and cuts quite nicely and finishes well.     

2. Use a self stick repositional shelving liner (I get the 12 inch wide clear kind from Walmart for about $6 a roll)  applied to the wood under your pattern.  I sand my panel well with 600 grit paper on my random access palm sander before applying the shelving liner. then apply your pattern to the liner material with spray adhesive.  The use of the liner material helps minimize any tearout.  However, if you don't sand the panel before applying the liner material it can actually pull the surface up during removal after cutting. 

 

   

[amazingkevin]

Frank you really do your home work well, Thank you!!!