Gluing Layered Projects

[BadBob]

I'm trying to make one of these: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1502011466/

I have it cut and put together, but some layers came apart, primarily because I could not get the Titebond II on fast enough. I initially applied it with a brush. For the top layer, I 3M 77 did not come off, but I had to clean up some overspray that got on the edges. I have made similar smaller pieces that worked fine, but this one is probably 4 to 5 times as large.

What is the technique you use?

 

[ChelCass]

I use E6000.  It is clear and it gives you several minutes to adjust your pieces as needed. It is also very strong and holds really well. I apply glue to each piece as I go along.  Many times I will fit my pieces where I want them, then remove one at a time and apply glue and then set it in place.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I would never use any other glue beside titebond to glue wood to wood. Titebond II has a little more open time than original so that is my go to adhesive. Titebond III is just a little more than II but the glue line can be darker. We are talking about 15 minutes in normal temps. Now if you need even longer time than I would look into Titebond Extend glues. They can be 25 minutes open times. 

Whenever I do overlays of any kind my  method is to use a good quality porous sponge. I cut small squares and use the dabbing method. What this does is limits the amount of glue ooze out because there is pockets of open space that the glue can move to. Plus it leaves a little mound of glue so it does not lay flat and dry quicker.   This method has worked for me for many years and I have glued larger projects than what you are showing. What also is nice is after I get initial layer down if I need to go back because some glue looks like it is setting up I can rehit it with the sponge. The glue squeeze out is minimal and the glue is not seen. Now the original is probably the clearest of them all if that matters to you. Here is an example of overlay pieces that I needed to glue. I actually was gluing onto a painted surface too and Titebond II was glue of my choice.  Try some on a scrap piece and see what I am talking about when using a sponge. Good luck.

One other tip, if I am setting a piece on top and it has to be exact, I do so without glue then I make small witness marks on the side of the piece and the flat piece. This way just match witness marks and not fuss trying to move around and spreading glue under the fret work.

 

 

Edited December 23, 2024 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I see someone suggested using E6000. It may have worked for them but I will share my experience with it. First it is a rubbery adhesive. yes it is a strong glue. But I used it to glue the brass symbols on this cross and about a year later they peeled right off. Now I could not use any clamping pressure so I had to rely on the glue alone. Well I took all the parts off and had a heck of a job cleaning residue off but after I go done I used a strong epoxy adhesive and never had that problem. Maybe E6000 is good for wood to wood but if using other materials gluing to wood I would be careful. 

 

 

Edited December 23, 2024 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[kmmcrafts]

On lager pieces like that I use parchment paper or if I don't have any another thing that works is just a trash bag. Spread glue evenly as you can on the paper with a plastic spreader or I've in a pinch used a business card LOL. Then you just set the back of the project onto the spread out glue.. sometimes you may need to press down on some areas to make sure you got glue on all of it. Lift it up and set it onto the other part you're gluing.. Usually I am doing signs or similar.. You may want to practice this on some scrap to get a feel for how thick to spread the thin layer of glue onto the paper / bag etc. for minimal squeeze out. I also try to have several gue-up projects ready to go because most times I can glue up several on one pile of the spread out glue. 

[BadBob]

I vaguely remember someone using a foam roller.

Would this work?

[BadBob]

2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

On lager pieces like that I use parchment paper or if I don't have any another thing that works is just a trash bag. Spread glue evenly as you can on the paper with a plastic spreader or I've in a pinch used a business card LOL. Then you just set the back of the project onto the spread out glue.. sometimes you may need to press down on some areas to make sure you got glue on all of it. Lift it up and set it onto the other part you're gluing.. Usually I am doing signs or similar.. You may want to practice this on some scrap to get a feel for how thick to spread the thin layer of glue onto the paper / bag etc. for minimal squeeze out. I also try to have several gue-up projects ready to go because most times I can glue up several on one pile of the spread out glue. 

It sounds like I need a flat surface that the glue will not soak into and something to spread it evenly. I was thinking of wax paper. Doesn't the glue soak into the parchment?

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Foam rollers will allow glue to get on the edges of the piece. Wax paper may not allow the glue to spread out. 

[BadBob]

4 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Foam rollers will allow glue to get on the edges of the piece.

I was thinking of using the foam roller to spread the glue on the wax paper.

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, BadBob said:

It sounds like I need a flat surface that the glue will not soak into and something to spread it evenly. I was thinking of wax paper. Doesn't the glue soak into the parchment?

Yes, I have a big chest freezer that I lay out as a flat surface work area.. I honestly haven't done it on anything other than a plastic trash bag, but I read somewhere that someone used parchment paper.. I think wax paper would be good too. I just like the trash bag because I have big bags I use for the shop and the cover the whole top of the chest freezer incase I have a mishap. 

Edit: If you let the glue dry on the bag and then carefully take it outside and shake it.. most the glue comes off and looks like large snake skin, LOL.. then you can still use the bag

 

Edited December 23, 2024 by kmmcrafts

[BadBob]

What about a nonstick cookie sheet? They are cheap.

 

 

[kmmcrafts]

That would probably work, for a while I had a scrap cutoff piece of plexiglass that I used.. once done gluing I could wash the plastic surface with soap and water to remove the glue and use again. Sometimes you can get cutoffs cheap from the hardware too. Cookie sheet might be cheaper though. Maybe one of those plastic / nylon? cutting boards from the dollar store if they have anything large enough.

[BadBob]

1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

Maybe one of those plastic / nylon? cutting boards from the dollar store if they have anything large enough.

I thought about that, but plastics can be a bit strange with glue. I have some that glue or paint will not bond to, and others that, if you get wood glue on them, it's there for keeps. I have a workmate with plastic jaws I got glue on more than 30 years ago, and it is still there.

[jollyred]

You could try one of the silicon baking sheets, nothing is supposed to stick to them.  I use it for this, and they clean up really easily.

Tom

[Wichman]

I use polyurethane glue (gorilla glue) for backers on fretwork pieces, applied with a foam roller. Yes, you must be gentle with the roller or you will get glue over the edge so I would recommend practicing first. I also cut all of the interior first, then glue up and after the glue is cured, cut the outside.

A note with all the glues is they are slippery when first applied, so I press the pieces together first and allow a few minutes for the glue to "tack up" before clamping ( with weight on top ).

A good non stick surface is the backing paper from the clear shelf liner. I just used some to keep a coat of Shellac from sticking to a form while the Shellac dried ( this was the curled Angel for the cup holder, when I dipped the piece in Shellac it relaxed the wood,  I allowed the piece to soak in the Shellac for a few minutes then put a layer of backing again the form (coffee cup), then the angel, a second layer of backing, and then a second cup. When I removed the piece I could hear that it lightly stuck, but everything came apart without any damage.))

 

 

[Millwab]

No first hand experience, but I’ve read that plain old Elmers glue-all (white glue) has a longer open time than yellow glue but bonds the same (wood to wood). It might give you the time you need.

[don in brooklin on]

I use Weldbond glue.  It has a reasonable open time and as the specs say holds anything to anything.  I have not tried anything but wood to wood and fabric to wood and it is great.

I started using this because Carole Rothman recommended it for making bowls.  It dries clear and any squeeze out can be scrapped off in about 20 minutes. It sands up well too.

I have been doing some delicate fretwork and I just dab the glue on with a end of a small dowel and it hold well.

 

 

 

[BadBob]

8 hours ago, Wichman said:

A good non stick surface is the backing paper

Great idea. I had not thought of that.

[kmmcrafts]

Yeah I never thought about the backing of the shelf liner.. though most of the things I gue up using this method are bigger than the 12" wide liner.. maybe I need to start buying the wider one.. don't remember how wide the other one is now.. I had a roll of it at one time.. thinking it's 18" wide.

[Roberta Moreton]

I have used Tightbond, unfinished wood to unfinished wood. E6000, Finished wood to finished wood, finished wood to metal, like sawtooth hangers. Aleene’s craft glue. Finished wood to finished wood. The E6000 and the Aleene’s both dry clear and shiny. I sometimes use a toothpick to apply it so it doesn’t show.

[BadBob]

There are many good suggestions here, and picking one as the best solution wasn't easy. @kmmcrafts did not provide a perfect solution, but he did send me down the path to a solution that I think will work well for me. Not that the others would not have worked. Thanks to all who gave their suggestions.

[TAIrving]

On 12/23/2024 at 2:52 PM, BadBob said:

It sounds like I need a flat surface that the glue will not soak into and something to spread it evenly. I was thinking of wax paper. Doesn't the glue soak into the parchment?

Nothing sticks to parchment paper!  Not glue, not paint, not blue tape.  Nothing! It is like wax paper for bakers.  And when you are done, you throw it away, no clean-up.  

[BadBob]

I'm going to need to try some parchment paper.

[BadBob]

I bought some parchment for Sam's Club and I plan to test it soon.