Quick Drying Glue... Super Glue?

[kmmcrafts]

I've been working on some lanterns for Halloween and the design has I guess you'd call finger joints.. some designs the joints are tight enough they are "friction fit" and no need for glue while others need glue to hold them together. Once I get better with the laser software I'll learn how to change those finger joint sizes to make them friction fit.. It really boils down to the exact thickness of the wood you're using and not all the same thickness from one sheet of ply to the next due to moisture content etc.. I always glue the friction fit ones anyway but they at least fit together and stay unlike some that you need 5 hands and 20 fingers to hold everything... this brings me to the quick drying glue question.. I've heard / seen the term CA Glue..I know nothing about most any glues other than the Titebond 3 and translucent ones I've been using for years.  I've been using cheap dollar store super glue but each project takes close to a whole tube and would like to find a bigger better source for a quick drying glue.. Super glue seems to be holding to the wood decent enough but not sure how it will be longer term.. This is why I make this topic... what would be a good quick drying glue that isn't going to break the bank.. I did a little research last night and it looks like some CA glues require a activator? Maybe I just want to use a larger bottle of super glue.. just thought I'd ask some of the more experienced what might be my best options. 

Also helpful to come with a smaller tipped to get the glue into tight spots.. the little screw on tips on the super glue I've been using work pretty well, could be a tad longer but doable the way they are but that is also something I'm looking at for whatever glue I end up using. 

I'll load a photo of the lantern I just made shortly as it's on my phone and not on my computer that I'm currently using. LOL

Edited July 26, 2025 by kmmcrafts

[Matt B]

I have been using Starbond CA glue for years.  It is a good quality. Good website with lots of information   Starbond.com

[Scrappile]

CA glue works.  Yes, you do need an acitvator.  I have read of some that use a mist of water as an activator.  I have never tried that.  You have to be a little careful with it.  It can do damage if it "goes off" on your skin.  

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

CA will break the bank no matter what glue you buy. Not cheap. In the pen turning world CA glue is a good glue for a finish on pens. Not all Ca glue is flexible so that probably not a problem but can be because wood moves. I always have used Satelite City CA. (Hot Stuff)  The big glue on the market is GluBoost They have many varieties depending on open times needed. Thin Ca which you buy in those squeeze tubes is just that type and is water thin. The mid range glue gives more open time and is thicker and is called gap filling CA. This can be hit with accelerator. Thin does not need it. It soaks into wood too quickly. Then there is another thicker level but to me too much for what you want to do. If I were you what I would do is use wood glue on all the fingers except the top and bottom one and use a med CA on those. Now you have time to put together and line up and when set just hit those 2 spots with accelerator and it will be fixed and the wood glue can do its thing designed for what its purpose. They do this alot in woodworking when making many items. They sell flexible thin needle stems to replace the caps for tight areas. here is my links. This is what I use. You can get all this on Amazon and many different varieties. People like to use Gorilla CA glue for wood projects. 

Just a safety note or two. CA fumes are flammable. They are strong odor. They do make odorless CA but again step up in price. They sell different size bottles for a reason. CA does not store well after opened on a shelf. If unused can be stored in Freezer and needs to be taken out well ahead of time of use to room temps before using. Do not apply heat. CA glue can be removed with acetone only. people use nail polish remover because that has acetone in it too. Do not splash on eyes, hands or any skin parts. Use accelerator sparingly. It hardens in a hurry and can smoke some so beware. DO NOT apply to cloth and leave it. It can start a fire. This is any brand. CA is a product that gets hot when curing.  The link I gave for Satellite Glue has alot of info as far as do's and don'ts. This can apply to just about all CA glues. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376130378359?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&loc_physical_ms=96777&customid=8e94463bb07a1aa73a302ebe33d02499&gclid=8e94463bb07a1aa73a302ebe33d02499

 

https://www.caglue.com/ 

Edited July 27, 2025 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[BadBob]

How fast is quick? 

You may want to consider Titebond Speed Set or Titebond Quick & Thick. They both have short working times. For the projects I make, these are too fast. 

I only use CA glue for specific purposes due to its expense, short shelf life, and safety issues. After throwing out several bottles of CA glue, I now only use the small tubes sold at Harbor Freight. I open the tube, use it, and throw the remainder away.

[barb.j.enders]

I have been using Titebond Quick & Thick for the Intarsia pieces.  I tend to use a flat toothpick to spread it out on small pieces.  

[Scrappile]

After reading @Matt B's post, which he was writing, what I was doing my response,  You may not need an activator all the time.  I went to the site he listed and did some reading.  

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Just a thought and observation over the years when seeing these type projects, you can make the exact same project without the tabs and just glue end grain to flat grain. If you are worried about strength you can do alot less tabs. It is basic box making when you break it down.

[Dan]

I agree with John, could make without those joints. I believe those are box joints. I have seen where people use both wood glue and super glue. The super glue will hold the joints together long enough for the wood glue to set up. Put a few drops of super glue on a piece and the wood glue between those. I haven't tried it but I can see it working.

[kmmcrafts]

Okay after reviewing the comments and after making a couple more of these I have figured out a method that works well to assemble it using the TiteBond glue that I've always used. I do wish it set up quicker so I think I might try the Quick and Thick glue mentioned above..

IF I were scroll sawing these it'd be easy to make without having the joints but until I get better with the software to redesign this for the laser I'll be making it as is.. this isn't like changing up plans on the fly with a scroll saw.. laser is going to do what the design is on the computer. I have figured out how to adjust the joints on some of these projects to make them a tighter/ looser fit but this particular design I can't seem to figure that out with this one. LOL.. some of the designs the designer made it for the type / size plywood they have / use.. and some of it is oddball sizes from other parts of the world so learning to adjust this stuff as I go.. or at least trying too.. LOL

[Bill WIlson]

For something in-between Titebond and CA glue for quick hold, I like to use Aleene's Tacky Glue.  It isn't an instant hold.  It gives you time to adjust the joint but tacks up far quicker than Titebond.

[kmmcrafts]

40 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

For something in-between Titebond and CA glue for quick hold, I like to use Aleene's Tacky Glue.  It isn't an instant hold.  It gives you time to adjust the joint but tacks up far quicker than Titebond.

 

Thanks Bill, My wife uses this all the time.. She is always steeling my packing tape and my side cutters so now her tacky glue is going to end up out in the shop.. Lets see how she handles the disappearing glue.. Karma about to go down,   

[BadBob]

Titebond makes 30 different glues. 

[kmmcrafts]

4 hours ago, BadBob said:

Titebond makes 30 different glues. 

I didn't know they made that many different ones. 

I've always liked the titebond glues and was really happy to find the translucent one which is my most used one for gluing clocks to the bases and backers on ornaments etc.. as it dries clear. I use the titebond 3 for cutting boards or other glueups etc..

 

Now that I'm using a laser the folks on the laser groups say to use a double sided tape.. I forgot the 3M number but it's basically a very wide double sided tape and then they laser cut the face side of the ornaments.. peel and stick it to the backer part of the ornament.. no messy glue or worries of squeeze out etc.. I might look into that.. might could work for scrolling so I'll make a different topic about this with the number of the tape they use. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I didn't know they made that many different ones. 

I've always liked the titebond glues and was really happy to find the translucent one which is my most used one for gluing clocks to the bases and backers on ornaments etc.. as it dries clear. I use the titebond 3 for cutting boards or other glueups etc..

 

Now that I'm using a laser the folks on the laser groups say to use a double sided tape.. I forgot the 3M number but it's basically a very wide double sided tape and then they laser cut the face side of the ornaments.. peel and stick it to the backer part of the ornament.. no messy glue or worries of squeeze out etc.. I might look into that.. might could work for scrolling so I'll make a different topic about this with the number of the tape they use. 

If you are looking for great doublesided tape that is clear then look at the line called FastCap. Best stuff around. Not cheap but you get what you pay for. You can get in many different sizes. It is very thin and clear. I use it alot in the pen turning world.

 

https://www.fastcap.com/product/speedtape

 

https://titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af

Edited July 30, 2025 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[BadBob]

Speed tape looks like some handy stuff to have around the shop.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

49 minutes ago, BadBob said:

Speed tape looks like some handy stuff to have around the shop.

Believe me it is. It is for special projects but man it works well. I use woodworkers double sided tape for many things like jigs for cutting things on tablesaw and also for turning projects on the lathe. But that stuff is thicker and is easier to peel off. The speed tape is not tape you want to come off. 

 

I should also mention, the other day I just bought their zero clearance tape. I needed for my miter saw to make up for the years of cutting into the throat plate. I needed more accurate cuts so instead of buy a new plate or even making one, I heard about their tape and looks like the problem solver for me. It is very thin but the top is a slick plastic. It would be good for doing cuts on a scrollsaw that you need a zero clearance too. many people use various methods such as playing cards and tapes over the slots and things like that but this tape would do great on that too. Just a side note. 

https://www.fastcap.com/product/zero-clearance-tape

Edited July 30, 2025 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[BadBob]

17 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I should also mention, the other day I just bought their zero clearance tape

I've considered getting some FastCap zero clearance tape, but I am concerned it might make my cuts slightly out of square. 

[KellisRJ]

@kmmcrafts I suspect you already know what I'm mentioning, but it may help others who are considering laser work. 

Have you tried Laserburn? I doubt there is a quick solution for changing slots width, hole width & height, etc. But there's a pretty good user community. Someone may know some tricks or Inkscape options.  For those who don't know, most programs draw with dots of color. But lasers need to follow a line. Inkscape is a popular free, and can have a steep learning curve, program that draws with lines a laser can follow. 

If the outer dimensions are staying the same I often center a square the size I need and just start moving or adding lines, or extend it as a rectangle, cut out the bottom, then extend the pattern line to the new slot centered where the old one was. Can be slow . . . 

Honestly hope you are way past this point. 2D & lines I can deal with. CAD has literally driven me close to tears. 

Ron

[KellisRJ]

On 7/26/2025 at 6:42 PM, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

CA will break the bank no matter what glue you buy. Not cheap. In the pen turning world CA glue is a good glue for a finish on pens. Not all Ca glue is flexible so that probably not a problem but can be because wood moves. I always have used Satelite City CA. (Hot Stuff)  The big glue on the market is GluBoost They have many varieties depending on open times needed. Thin Ca which you buy in those squeeze tubes is just that type and is water thin. The mid range glue gives more open time and is thicker and is called gap filling CA. This can be hit with accelerator. Thin does not need it. It soaks into wood too quickly. 

.  . . 

A quick note. I used some thinset on Baltic ply last week and of course had an "oppise." A spot almost 1-1/2" across. I tried acetone and CA remover. Arggg. Of course the Danish Oil didn't penetrate.  Just glad it was on the bottom and my partner didn't care. My luck, I never get anything close to the advertised set times.  This provides ample opportunity to either get stuck to something or trying to prevent it waiting out the set. An acquaintance uses it as a sealant on wood carvings. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

1 hour ago, KellisRJ said:

A quick note. I used some thinset on Baltic ply last week and of course had an "oppise." A spot almost 1-1/2" across. I tried acetone and CA remover. Arggg. Of course the Danish Oil didn't penetrate.  Just glad it was on the bottom and my partner didn't care. My luck, I never get anything close to the advertised set times.  This provides ample opportunity to either get stuck to something or trying to prevent it waiting out the set. An acquaintance uses it as a sealant on wood carvings. 

The thin CA will soak into wood quickly like a sponge. It will adhere to the wood fibers and when they are covered nothing will penetrate it. Thus Danish oil will not. You can paint over it after some sanding. If you want to have some open time, I suggest Med CA. Then you can give a quick shot of accelerator to start the drying process faster. In the pen turning world we use CA all the time as a finish top coat. A few coats of thin to seal the wood and then a few coats of Med and then we sand and MicroMesh till we get a beautiful glos finish. Many will add a coat of auto wax and bring out the shine even more. It is a very tough finish and stands up to the oils in the hands and thus the reason we use a a finish. 

This pen I did is a segmented pen with Gabon Ebony and Holly. It is a rollerball pen. Basically a desk pen because of the size. 

 

 

 

[kmmcrafts]

8 hours ago, KellisRJ said:

@kmmcrafts I suspect you already know what I'm mentioning, but it may help others who are considering laser work. 

Have you tried Laserburn? I doubt there is a quick solution for changing slots width, hole width & height, etc. But there's a pretty good user community. Someone may know some tricks or Inkscape options.  For those who don't know, most programs draw with dots of color. But lasers need to follow a line. Inkscape is a popular free, and can have a steep learning curve, program that draws with lines a laser can follow. 

If the outer dimensions are staying the same I often center a square the size I need and just start moving or adding lines, or extend it as a rectangle, cut out the bottom, then extend the pattern line to the new slot centered where the old one was. Can be slow . . . 

Honestly hope you are way past this point. 2D & lines I can deal with. CAD has literally driven me close to tears. 

Ron

I hadn't thought about making a box the size I need the tabs to be and then cutting and erase the old.. It would be a slow way of doing it but it could work. The lightburn program is what I run my lasers with which is also a drawing software. Love it and it's much easier to work with than inkscape.. Same goes for my Vcarve program for the CNC router.. It's just trying to learn 2-3 different programs all at or near the same time.. and figuring out what dose what. LOL

For your info or anyone else following this... there is a free website program to create boxes with or without tabs etc.. you put in the sizes and material size etc.. then it'll create a box for you to download. Check out the link below..

 

https://www.makercase.com/

 

[KellisRJ]

Thanks, beautiful pen! I've been alternating, but am taking this lesson to heart. Didn't help I didn't pay close enough attention to the bottle I grabbed. Nozzle hole is much too big but Star doesn't sell replacements. 

[KellisRJ]

24 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

https://www.makercase.com/

 

Inkscape is powerful, but I can't use it without constantly querying help.

I've been using Https:\\boxes.hackerspace-bamberg.de/?language=en

I don't often change the tab settings, but the program supports doing it when needed. 

[JJB]

Hide glue is a good choice.