To Varnish or Not

[Insane Dust Maker]

This is something that has always bothered me, I soak my cuttings in a photographic development tray for about 5-6 minutes agitating continuously to ensure proper coverage and penetration, I then gently blow out the excess oil back into the tray for reuse. They then get hung up to dry for about 48 hours. Looking at the dried cutting I ask myself is applying varnish necessary as the get framed and sealed to ensure they are dust proof. Just a added note here I seal as per a framing company would seal for gallery display.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I say you need to show photos of what you are talking about to help us understand what you are asking. My guess is you make scrolled cuttings that are pictures and you frame them. Now do you cover with glass or are they open framed.? What are wanting to achieve? keeping dust off which will never happen unless you encapsulate them. or looking for a sheen? Have to ask if you have behind glass why would you want a sheen? Too much glare will distort. What are you dipping in?   Need more info.

[Wichman]

7 hours ago, Insane Dust Maker said:

This is something that has always bothered me, I soak my cuttings in a photographic development tray for about 5-6 minutes agitating continuously to ensure proper coverage and penetration, I then gently blow out the excess oil back into the tray for reuse. They then get hung up to dry for about 48 hours. Looking at the dried cutting I ask myself is applying varnish necessary as the get framed and sealed to ensure they are dust proof. Just a added note here I seal as per a framing company would seal for gallery display.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

IMHO 48 hrs is not long enoungh for the BLO/MS mixture to Cure, long enough to dry yes, but it takes longer for the BLO to finish Curing. Once the BLO has cured, if the piece is under glass, then a varnish is not necessary.

Just for curiosities sake, how are you sealing the back of the frame? Tape or paper back or ??? 

[Insane Dust Maker]

Thanks for the replies, but first let me answer so question. Yes these are Scroll Saw patterns cut on Baltic Birch Ply. Yes it’s soaked in BLO and mineral Spirit mixture, when I say it’s drunk after 48/72 hours which means that I can now touch them safely. I let the lay for about two weeks to cure.

I use 1 mm Plexiglass non reflective material for the front of the frame. The back is sealed with brown paper tape as per the framers use.

I don’t think I need to varnish them, as I do a pretty good job of the frames (self made) and the back is very sealed well.

 

[Bill WIlson]

On 8/10/2025 at 5:23 AM, Insane Dust Maker said:

This is something that has always bothered me, I soak my cuttings in a photographic development tray for about 5-6 minutes agitating continuously to ensure proper coverage and penetration, I then gently blow out the excess oil back into the tray for reuse. They then get hung up to dry for about 48 hours. Looking at the dried cutting I ask myself is applying varnish necessary as the get framed and sealed to ensure they are dust proof. Just a added note here I seal as per a framing company would seal for gallery display.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Re the bolded sentence above, "necessary" to accomplish what?  If it is to keep dust off, then I would guess that your framing technique should be adequate.  I don't think coating with varnish will add anything.  If it's for appearance, then "necessary" is totally subjective.

[Roberta Moreton]

I dip mine in danish oil and let dry for a couple of days. I frame mine behind glass. I do not add a top coat. Where do you find this non reflective plexiglass? I have  never heard of it!

[Sycamore67]

I use shellac instead of Danish oil type finishes.  It dries very quickly and looks good.  A spray shellac or lacquer is easy and quick.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Roberta it’s a product available here in South Africa, it comes in various thicknesses, their Plexiglass non reflective XT is Gallery Grade and is used extensively in the building industry, Framers and Advertising Industry.

3mm Non reflective glass is very expensive here, it was recommended that I use 1mm thick Plexiglass XT, A2 costs about $ 3.5 US, I can get to cuttings done out of this size.

 

[Denny Knappen]

3 hours ago, Insane Dust Maker said:

Roberta it’s a product available here in South Africa, it comes in various thicknesses, their Plexiglass non reflective XT is Gallery Grade and is used extensively in the building industry, Framers and Advertising Industry.

3mm Non reflective glass is very expensive here, it was recommended that I use 1mm thick Plexiglass XT, A2 costs about $ 3.5 US, I can get to cuttings done out of this size.

 

As a framer, I don't recommend Plexiglass.  We use Acrylite designed specifically for framing projects.

[Wichman]

1 hour ago, Denny Knappen said:

As a framer, I don't recommend Plexiglass.  We use Acrylite designed specifically for framing projects.

I found this on the Acrylite web site:

Semi-finished polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) products from POLYVANTIS are sold on the European, Asian, African and Australian continents under the registered trademark PLEXIGLAS®, in the Americas under the registered trademark ACRYLITE®, both owned by Röhm GmbH, Darmstadt, or its affiliates.

[Insane Dust Maker]

We’ve had no trouble using Plexiglass, been using for a good few years now. The one use is the XT grade/suitable for gallery purpose.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Shellac is not stocked by everyone and is difficult to get hold of. Danish Oil is way to expensive for me.

[Roberta Moreton]

I buy my frames from Hobby Lobby or Michael’s, which ever one has the discount at the time. They come with glass. 

[FrankEV]

I'm jumping into this discussion very late, but I do not know why anyone would mount their Scroll Saw wood art under glass/plexiglass.  Like original oil or acrylic paintings on canvas are not framed under glass, it has been my understanding, since I started this hobby, properly protected wood does not need to be protected in a sealed under glass dust proof frame.  Not withstanding, dust proof framing is also a rather expensive process.

On the contrary, wood art, like quality furniture, is a medium that is both visual and somewhat tactile.  And, like quailty furniture, requires a durable protective finish like varnish, lacquer, urethane, polycrylic, etc. to resist fading, discoloring, warping, cracking, etc.   Yes, exposed wood art will collect dust, but also like furniture, is easily dusted.   The frame and glass used to protect wood art will collect dust and will also need to be dusted regularly.  And yes, if left in an unprotected state, an oil finish will collect dust that is not easily removed, so it can be argued, the need for a sealed frame for an oil only finish.  But why?, when hard durable protective finshes are available.

Although there are many who will disagree, IMHO any kind of oil finish alone is not appropriate for wood art of any kind.  All oil finishes require a degree of maintenance as the oil will eventually dry to a point where it is no longer protecting the wood.  

Admittedly I have not been in this hobby as long as others, but I have many pieces, that I have made, hung or displayed in my home, some since 2018, when I first started scrolling.  None are under sealed glass. None have dicolored, faded, warped, cracked, or in any other way become damaged because they were not sealed underglass.  All have been protected by multiple coats of either lacquer or polycrylic.  And, they do not colect dust any more than other art and furnishing in my home.  I will say that I do not allow any of my wood art or wood furniture to be exposed to direct sunlight as, no matter what finish is used, the UV from direct sunlight will have a damaging affect on any wood.  

This is just my opinion and my two-cents worth on the subject.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[BadBob]

@FrankEVLacquer vs. polycrylic: which do you prefer? 

[FrankEV]

3 hours ago, BadBob said:

@FrankEVLacquer vs. polycrylic: which do you prefer? 

I actually like them both equally.  However, I  have switched to the polycrylic almost exclusively because it is very compatible with Acylic paints I often use.  Also, I  can obtain clear acrylic spray from Hobby Lobby much less costly than lacquer. Also, no significant vapor odor from acrylics.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Thank you French for your comments on using Plexiglass, Varnishing etc. your comments are very,I don’t think there’s a right or wrong answer it comes down to personal taste. I have a few of my earlier cuttings that are framed but with no glass in front and the dust in the cuts are difficult to clean, at this stage of my life I can’t afford the time to sit with a small brush cleaning the cuts, hence I have opted for the Non Reflective Plexiglass to just keep them clean, it all come down to personal choice.

[Insane Dust Maker]

Thank you for your feedback.

[Roberta Moreton]

On 8/10/2025 at 5:23 AM, Insane Dust Maker said:

Edited September 7, 2025 by Roberta Moreton
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