Getting the Pattern design on project to paint?

[coldwood]

When I cut out my pattern . I prime the wood and set the pattern on the wood with carbon paper underneath and trace that out .

So I can paint the colors on where they are suppose to go.  I don't have the talent to do free hand..

Is there a better way to do this than carbon paper.?

[BadBob]

I don't understand what you are doing?

 

[rjweb]

Please explain, thx RJ

[Scrappile]

Are you referring to painting a backer board so different colors show in different cut-out areas?

[Wichman]

This is probably referring to the Blue jay pattern he has been working on. He doesn't want to cut all the parts out and glue them back together, but he can't freehand paint the details. 

So, how can he transfer the pattern easily?

There are some youtube videos, and you need a laser printer, not an inkjet.

 

[coldwood]

15 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Are you referring to painting a backer board so different colors show in different cut-out areas?

Yes I want to paint the colors where they go. I could paste the pattern onto 1/8" wood and cut each color out and trace that onto my finish wood (  backer board) than Paint

 

2025Stevegood Bluejay good.pdf

[Dan]

That pattern is a painted segmentation. Cut all the pieces, paint the front and back of each piece,then glue them pack together. 

[coldwood]

I have a piece of pine 3/4' that is ready for painting .I have primed it and put on the base coat ( blue ) paint.

It is to go outside as a whirligig

[coldwood]

21 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Are you referring to painting a backer board so different colors show in different cut-out areas?

yes 

I have a piece of pine 3/4' that is ready for painting .I have primed it and put on the base coat ( blue ) paint.

It is to go outside as a whirligig

[Roberta Moreton]

When I trace a pattern I like to use graphite paper instead of carbon paper. 
graphite is erasable (pencils have graphite in them). Carbon paper is ink, not erasable. That way you can lighten or erase the lines. 

Edited November 8, 2025 by Roberta Moreton

[coldwood]

Good to know, I will have to check that out. Thanks

[Roberta Moreton]

Painting the wood after it’s cut is the common way of doing this. If you want to trace the lines on before painting or cutting, I would use graphite paper. 

[rash_powder]

If you have or know someone with a laser, have them lightly burn the pattern on the material.  It will look as though it was drawn on.  

[Archer]

Tracing paper works for me. A cheaper alterative is rolls of baking paper. Its exactly the same product.

Lay the baking paper over your design and trace it with a soft pencil.

Turn the baking paper upside down and rub the flat of the pencil heavily over the design. 

Turn the baking paper right side up on your primed wood and trace the design with a stylus or hard pencil.

This works on un-primed light coloured wood as well but it doesn't work well on darker woods.

Taping the baking paper down anytime you are tracing improves accuracy. 

Hope this helps.

[CharleyL]

I usually just glue the pattern onto my wood pieces using one of the low tack adhesives or Stationery Store rubber cement, when doing 3D work, since the cut up pattern falls off with the scrap. For very complex work and for power carving I use Applique film. It is clear, but with a backing that gets peeled off leaving a sticky surface to apply it to the work. It is also a low tack adhesive, so can be peeled off after the cutting. This applique film can receive your pattern when run through a laser printer or Xerox type photo copier. It is available through most Stationery Stores, but you may need to order it through them. It would be good if you could buy just a few sheets at a time, but I bought a whole box.  Amazon has other similar films for less money, but I have never tried any of them.

 

i just found it on Amazon, but at a considerably higher price than I paid (but that was about 15 or more years ago), and you will need to buy a whole box of 100 this way. Look at other choices that are listed when you serch with this link. Maybe one of the others will do what you want at less cost. 

https://www.amazon.com/Chartpak-CHADAF8-Applique-Drafting-Clear/dp/B000DZ9WE2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2E08S2IX51XI5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Tut9TcRVPicyE4YrQGwQ8cqwl1WFlp5gnKLQQJudLezsSI4YmZCLzKP3KpD9uVBsS6obEZsTtLJFg7V1X8f2FgU1Fs-Az3eAjLfA-1AeQxjH-JfZpsuE9he60rN4Wt2UEmjb3W4sYBczK8SBv27PmdArrZQzBH5oLy6NAIC16VA4zhfvJ11NJWtVdpeZODeYAFfdpAmXAmuKnLo7cn_D7euvA3zXMkhkHDoLmuzmQSmiExKyUJsBVJJQY3-a5D-JHXtdv4TaPuQIMCuxZ1kjqOby9jJGseER0GH8QL3Y_6I.qf_6boTWrT6HtknTYs1mUcogpfcOO4mwMTYU8sxtOcg&dib_tag=se&keywords=clear+applique+film&qid=1763486697&sprefix=clear+applique+film%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-2 

I like these sheets because I can remove and re-apply them several times before the sticky backing fails too much for them to stay in place. I also place many smaller patterns on each sheet to get maximum use of the sheet. I then cut them apart and place them on my workpiece, sometimes removing and reapplying them several times to get the positioning perfect. I keep a file of the unused patterns on the sheet, so I can go back to the file for more without the need to print another sheet of them. I keep a file for each pattern, with the sheet that I made the applique from, so I can go back and make an additional overlay sheet if I discover that I need more copies of the small patterns.

I usually do this applique thing when power carving, but sometimes I have cut the piece out and then power carved the facing surface. The same pattern then gets left on and used for the carving. Attached is a photo of a scroll sawn project where I cut it out on my scroll saw, and then power carved the surface of the vines and leaves, giving it some 3D shape, that adds dimension to it with the carver. The carver that I use runs by low pressure air, turns at 400,000 rpm. and it's actually a straight version of a Dentist Drill. I get many of my 1/8" shank bits from my dentist, as they use a new bit for each patient visit, and they are far from dull when I get them. He sterilizes them and then just puts them in a small plastic bag to save them for me. I then get to sort them for my use.

I would list the source of the carver, but they are no longer in business. There are others available, but I have no experience with them.

Charley