Stain oil paint

[Tom Gi]

I made this today and am thinking it would look better with a piece of ply on the back

if I use boiled linseed oil on the pattern and paint the backer black would they stick together with wood glue 

or maybe someone could point me in a good direction for doing this

[kmmcrafts]

I'm sure others would have a different method of what they would do than me but, what I would do is add a backer from a different species of wood for contrast.. many of my projects made from oak or maple would have a walnut backer.. I would glue the backer first and then apply your finish.. Linseed oil would make the grain of those two types of wood really pop.. however I prefer Danish oil as it has a small amount of poly in it with added driers to help it dry out quicker. 

The U.S.M.C in the picture is red oak with walnut backer. I do prefer the look of maple or birch with walnut backer better. If you do go the stained wood route I would use E6000 glue instead of wood glue as the wood glue works best on unfinished wood. 

 

 

[Tom Gi]

46 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I'm sure others would have a different method of what they would do than me but, what I would do is add a backer from a different species of wood for contrast.. many of my projects made from oak or maple would have a walnut backer.. I would glue the backer first and then apply your finish.. Linseed oil would make the grain of those two types of wood really pop.. however I prefer Danish oil as it has a small amount of poly in it with added driers to help it dry out quicker. 

The U.S.M.C in the picture is red oak with walnut backer. I do prefer the look of maple or birch with walnut backer better. If you do go the stained wood route I would use E6000 glue instead of wood glue as the wood glue works best on unfinished wood. 

 

 

Thanks I like the ideas you have suggested 

 

[don in brooklin on]

When I put on a backer I finish the top (stain or dip in 50/50 mix or shellac/alcohol). 

The back I typically paint black.  I like the edges to be same a front so don't paint right to the edge. If staining the front I stain the edges on the back.

I then glue front to back,  I use Weldbond with good success. Dries clear and adheres well.

I then spray with Ploy or lacquer 

  

[barb.j.enders]

I will paint/stain the backer but not out to the edge.  Glue the pieces together, usually with Titebond.  After they are glued, i will sand the edges smooth.  Then everything gets the finish.  These were done with Tung Oil.  Only one has a painted backer.  It was done with Unicorn Spit.

[tomsteve]

nice project. standard water based wood glue isn't fond of oily surfaces.

 myself- I use CA glue on backers. run a bead around perimeter then dabs in fragile spots and here and there, slap em together weight em down for a while. then I spray a coat or 3 of poly.

 

im not sure how CA works with BLO, though.

 

[kmmcrafts]

One thing that is hard to do is cut a backer the exact same size unless you stack cut them at the same time so I always took a small washer and lay the project on the backer and put the washer down next to it and you place your pencil / pen in the hole of the washer and trace around the outer edge. This way you get a perfect slightly larger and more rounded edges for the backer and not have to try to cut it exact and glue exactly lined up. 

When I was doing a lot of work that required backers I would use like a wax paper or similar and spread a thin layer of wood glue out on it then I could do a production line of gluing.. dip the project ( back side ) into the glue.. this gets glue on most of the whole backer in one quick and easy step.. then just place it onto the backer and grab the next one to glue. A cheap plastic cutting board works well to spread the glue out onto too and then when you're done you can just wash the glue off.  

[Scrappile]

9 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I'm sure others would have a different method of what they would do than me but, what I would do is add a backer from a different species of wood for contrast.. many of my projects made from oak or maple would have a walnut backer.. I would glue the backer first and then apply your finish.. Linseed oil would make the grain of those two types of wood really pop.. however I prefer Danish oil as it has a small amount of poly in it with added driers to help it dry out quicker. 

The U.S.M.C in the picture is red oak with walnut backer. I do prefer the look of maple or birch with walnut backer better. If you do go the stained wood route I would use E6000 glue instead of wood glue as the wood glue works best on unfinished wood. 

 

 

HEY, the USMC one is the best looking one,,,, no doubt!!  

[Scrappile]

I have had excellent luck with Weldbond glue when gluing painted surfaces together. That does not appear to be a piece that will be carried or moved around frequently.  You could also drill holes throught the backer and partly through the piece, glue in tooth picks to hold it secure.

Edited January 4 by Scrappile

[ChelCass]

There are so many different materials you can use as a backer. A lot can depend on how stable your piece is.  If it doesn't need support, then poster border type paper works really well.  Felt material is something I use a lot on ornaments as it is light weight.  A thin wood of course works well, and you can stain or paint it.  I use E6000 to glue most of my items.  It has a great hold and gives you plenty of time to adjust or align your work. 

[rjweb]

Paul, once a marine, always a marine, RJ

[ChelCass]

Ok, Now I am going to have to go on the hunt for the Marine sign pattern for hubby.  lol

 

[kmmcrafts]

2 hours ago, ChelCass said:

Ok, Now I am going to have to go on the hunt for the Marine sign pattern for hubby.  lol

 

The one in my photo is from Sheila Landry / Keith Fenton .. I bought the set but they sell the individual ones too.  

[ChelCass]

16 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

The one in my photo is from Sheila Landry / Keith Fenton .. I bought the set but they sell the individual ones too.  

Thanks Kevin, That's the first place I looked.  It is not on their website anymore.  

[Denny Knappen]

I use 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood as the backer stained black with Saman Stain.  Water base so pieces stick.  The reason I use 3/8" is that the sawtooth hanger works without interfering with the top piece.

Edited January 5 by Denny Knappen

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, ChelCass said:

Thanks Kevin, That's the first place I looked.  It is not on their website anymore.  

Maybe enough people complained about the whole copyright / trademark of the names so they took it down.. I got in trouble with etsy for these signs and they removed my listings. I guess I can't use the names of the different military branches. I always thought you could use the names but not the logos etc. and also thought I should be safe since the designers were making / selling the patterns but I now know they just design.. and are not perfect at knowing all the rules..

No idea but I'm not making them anymore.

I let Sheila and Keith know what happen and mentioned maybe they should mention possible copywrite / trademark to those selling in the listings but they didn't change anything and listings stayed on for several years after.. I didn't know they was gone from the site.. so maybe they finally got in trouble or too many people complained to them about it. 

I just took a look and they don't have a lot of things they used to and now it's pretty generic in their military section.. Maybe could message them for the pattern.

[BadBob]

Lots of military stuff is copyrighted. I looked into it once and was surprised by how much of it was. 

[rafairchild2]

Note that Government-created works aren't copyrighted, but military symbols (logos, names, seals) function as trademarks to identify the service, so they're protected under trademark law. Using military marks on merchandise (t-shirts, mugs, etc.) requires a license or written permission from the relevant service (Army, Navy, Air Force, etc.).

For personal, non-commercial use (like a hobby project), you might be fine, but if you plan to sell anything with military logos or insignia, or use them in a way that implies endorsement, you must get permission. 

From Google:
How to Get Permission (If Needed)
Identify the Mark: Determine which service's mark you want to use.
Contact the Licensing Office: Each branch has a Trademark Licensing Program (e.g., Army.mil ATLP for Army).
Apply for a License: Follow their process for approval, which involves reviewing your proposed use for quality and appropriateness. 

Edited January 6 by rafairchild2