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Wanted to do something to remember the beautiful Pheasants, which used to be plentiful in our area. Now it is very exciting to see one. Been hearing on but have not spotted him yet. This is a Mike Williams pattern, 1/4" BB. Both straight and spiral blades were used. Got to take a day and make frames, I have 4 pictures waiting for frames.

Dog Portrait - Abby pattern by Gayle at the Scroll Saw Cafe. I enlarged the pattern to fit the wood. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 12" square and backed with black mat board. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. I kept the large pieces in place for sanding the fuzzies off the back side. After sanding, a light coat of spray Shellac, another light sanding with a Mac Mop, and a final coat of spray Lacquer Clear Gloss. Comments welcome.

I have seen several of Steve's patterns uploaded here, whole and in part, in the past. This is just a reminder that he doesn't want the patterns uploaded to other sites. See today's blog post.

Thanks for the reminder. This is also a reminder that only patterns you have designed yourself can be uploaded to SSV. Please don't post other people's patterns, even if they are free. These talented artists are gracious enough to share their work, but they want to be able to control how their patterns are distributed. Reposting just strips that away from them. So, if someone is interested in a pattern you found somewhere else, point them in the right direction and provide a link to where they can download it for themselves. With that said, if anybody sees that one of Steve's patterns has been uploaded here on SSV, please flag it for me to review so I can remove it. Thanks all!

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This all sounds like the old Ford/Chevy argument to me. The saw that works best for you and you get the most enjoyment out of is the right one for you.

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Ray: The simplest way to do it is behind the scenes Ask if anyone is available to help with your request then the 2 of you can P.M. or email each other. Fab4

Well I had plans of going with a medium blue and that didn’t work out. I had to go with plan B.

Oh, friend. We just don't agree on anything!

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I was going to suggest the same.

I have both an EX-21 and a Pegas saw. I don't care if I have to rebuild them once a year. The speed and simplicity of the blade changes and tensoning (set once and forget it) wins for me. It is why I purchased the EX-21.

Use what works for you and brings you joy. As long as the saws are working as they should its all the same. Hegners don’t have arm bearings. They have bushings that get lubricated thats part of why they run so smooth and are so reliable and that design can handle thrust loading from the side well. Also a reason they are less maintenance and lower operating cost. What I like about the EX series though is that the motor is adjustable so you can get that blade perfectly vertical! Excellent for those blades. But again you have a Hegner so you have that blade stroke already and a removable plastic insert that you can chew up instead of your nice table!

More like a testimonial to what works best in the long run. A saw thats reliable backed by a reliable vendor of parts. And quality consistent parts at that. I love all the saws. The Hawk hum is soothing. Used to be my absolute favorite until it went down the drain. The adjustment of the double parralel system with its easy blade chuck system awesome stuff. If RBI was still RBI then yes hawks are great. But with the current manufacturer nope. Ive seen the hawk change from belt drive to ultras with ac motors then dc motors then G4s and now the BM. I have even seen four different shades of red. The best saw is the one thats reliable and has quality support. On hawks you should only have to change the rear pivot wedge and thats after hours of lubricated use tensioning properly and the front cam and the arm bearings. Simple always wins. I have a lot of Hawks even one that was mine originally. It still looks and runs new. But again maintenance and proper use. Enjoy those RBI’s! Have fun.

I asked chatgpt to give me a list of categories of this village. then I wanted it to add tip and tricks into each section. I had to tell it a few it missed. pasted below.... **Categorized Tips & Advice for Scroll Saw Art Forms** --- ### 1. Intarsia - Use woods with natural contrasting colors (e.g., walnut, maple, cherry). - Shape pieces using a drum sander or Dremel for depth. - Dry-fit often—subtle changes can throw off alignment. - Use reference photos to inform contours and shadows. - Avoid plywood—solid wood gives better shaping results. --- ### 2. Functional Projects - Reinforce weak joints with dowels or glue blocks. - Choose durable woods like oak or maple for longevity. - Use templates for repetitive shapes (e.g., handles, brackets). - Ensure all moving parts (e.g., lids, drawers) are sanded smooth. --- ### 3. Portrait - Start with high-contrast photos and simplify in photo editing software. - Use #2 or #3 blades for fine facial detail. - Use a lightbox or tape over a window to align multi-page patterns. - Back portraits with black felt, matte board, or velvet for depth. --- ### 4. Fretwork - Drill small, precise pilot holes to reduce tear-out. - Use fresh blades and slow speed for intricate cuts. - Tape top and bottom of the stack to reduce splinters. - Clean up fine cuts with needle files or micro-sanding tools. --- ### 5. Trivets - Use hardwood for strength (e.g., maple, beech). - Avoid excessive inside cuts to maintain stability. - Round over edges for a finished look and safer handling. - Apply heat-resistant finishes or leave unfinished for safer use. --- ### 6. Puzzles - Use softer woods like poplar or Baltic birch for smoother cutting. - Number or mark pieces on the back before cutting. - For name puzzles, slightly round edges for easier handling. - Add pegs or knobs for younger children’s puzzles. --- ### 7. Ornaments & Seasonal Decor - Lightweight woods like basswood or thin plywood are ideal. - Include a small hanging hole or loop in the design. - Seal with clear coat to protect delicate areas. - Consider stack cutting for efficiency. --- ### 8. Layered Art / Segmentation - Paint before assembly for cleaner results. - Use a numbering or labeling system to track layers. - Slightly round exposed edges for depth. - Use flat spray adhesive to tack layers without glue seepage. --- ### 9. Inlay & Marquetry Cut both the inlay and background at the same time for tight fits. Use veneers or thin woods for better layering. Apply thin CA glue or wood glue with a toothpick. Clamp flat during drying to avoid warping. Use an angle calculator or bevel gauge to precisely match angled cuts when inserting thicker wood into a base—this ensures flush, clean seams with minimal gaps. --- ### 10. Lettering & Signage Use bold, clean fonts for better readability. Sand and seal inside edges to prevent fraying. Layered backings can improve visibility on light-colored walls. Use double-sided tape or mounting tape for easy hanging. --- ### 11. Finishing (Including Dye) Sand progressively up to 320+ grit before applying finishes. Use wood dyes for vibrant color that maintains grain visibility. Test dyes on scrap wood to preview results. Apply clear coats like shellac or polyurethane to protect and enhance. Use steel wool between coats for silky-smooth finishes. Avoid oil finishes under water-based topcoats—they may not bond well. Use painter’s tape to mask off joints or areas not to be dyed. --- ### 12. Compound Cutting Use stacked patterns—glue side and top views on adjoining faces of a square blank. Drill entry holes before interior hollowing. Use aggressive skip-tooth or reverse blades (#5 or #7) for thick cuts. Cut one side, tape the offcut back in place, rotate, then cut the second side. Wrap the blank in packing tape to reduce friction and heat. Sand inner curves with files or rotary tools. Practice on pine/poplar before moving to hardwoods. Use CA glue and blue tape to temporarily rejoin pieces between cuts.

I have been around scrolling since birth. I restore a lot of saws and I recalibrate them and resell them to someone for less cost than a new one. Every saw has its own modification it seems. Not always but typically what I see are a couple things. On hawks people replace the tension knob in the back with something else and this leads to other problems. Every saw has flywheels or counter balance weights according to the weight of factory components. Changing this changes other things leading to motor and bearing issues bent arms etc. on Hegners I run into a different issue. People cut the stop off the back because they think they “are making it better”. The workpiece seems hard to bottom feed. On a hegner there are two ways to feed the blade. 1. Leave it in the bottom holder and rock the clamp forward to meet the wood upon entry. That is what the slit in the table is for. 2. Remove the holder, flip the wood over and thread it in and flip the wood right side up and using the slot in the table place the holder in the bottom holder and then retension. Heres what happens when you cut the stop off the back to “make it better” on your $1500+ dollar machine. You 1. Bend the rear tension assembly $70. Then the force moves through the arm and 2. Bends the arm in a twisting motion. About $200+ for an arm. Lets not forget you destroyed a c frame $190. Now your saw doesn’t track correctly and your motor is taking a beating at the bearings and you start hearing a squeal or squeak and your pitman arm or connector for Hegner terminology starts taking a beating and develops a crack at the end of it. To replace that its about $70 and now your control board doesn’t know what to do with the load constantly changing from vibration and your controller keeps trying to compensate and blades start breaking and your controller goes out. Those are about $400 and a motor is about $700. Cutting this off you destroyed your investment and ruined an heirloom tool. No point in handing it down now. Another thing I see is bellows. Stop trying to glue these on. Bite the bullet and get a new bellows. The noise stops, the air blows again and your in business. Hot dry climates expect a 5 year life span. $10 a year. Gluing them on you also ruin the bellows base which is another $7. Lets not forget about shipping if its one part at a time while you troubleshoot…. I have rebuilt them all and only two saws reign supreme for reliability and durability. the others have issues of thier own and are a mess whether its customer service and parts or speed controllers, arms and bearings. 1. The Hegner its built better and cost of maintenance is lower, even though parts are higher its lower cost of operation and a better investment overall. With daily and proper use you should only be buying bellows and the nylon pieces for your forward tension clamp. 2. The scrollmate or PS wood machine. Even with bent or twisted components its a champ and runs. Ive only had to replace a couple bearings after 4000+ hours of heavy abuse. An old man in my life bought a new Hegner in 1998. Never modified nothing and in 2019 he replaced his rear tension assembly. Everyday since he bought that hegner he sat behind it almost all day. Hes replaced a bellows once and the nylon tension assy a couple times. Today he is still alive and scrolling strong on that Hegner he bought all those years ago. His cost of operation is minimal because he left alone amd learned proper operation and tensioning. So before you buy or modify keep in mind the cost your choices will make you in the future. To avoid headache. Avoid the double parallel mechanisms and the Hawk saws. The engineering just isn’t there. Realignment is a pain and time consuming. Moving the stop down also causes the same problem. Save yourself a headache and leave well alone on your saws.

Been a woodworker for 50 years but new to scrolling this year. These are my first two Sheila Landry designs I did in 1/2 inch cherry

Sparkey, that is a beautiful piece, Paul that's funny I was thinking of joining a carvers group, because there is no scroll saw club here, RJ

Spring sell some very good prices. https://ocoochhardwoods.com/sale/

True confessions - I am a wood hoarder (I prefer to use the term "collector"). I really don't have room for any more wood, it must be time to get back to making sawdust.

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Guess not. Grew up with GM in the blood. Wrenched on many GM vehicles over the years. Did work in a Ford plant many years ago.

Yeap!!! Chevy fan here.

Very beautiful piece. I think these "Basket weave" turnings are my favorites. I can see where that could make you cross-eyed! Check this one out. This was done by my Turner friend, and I find it pretty amazing. Segmented with a twist. I have been thinking of joining the Turner club. It is very active, and I like to being around woodworkers, no matter their discipline. Been to a couple of their meetings, and it was fun.

that's fantastic, beautiful bird

Paul, wow that is beautiful, you have done an excellent job of cutting, RJ

Well done.

Never used the highly rated Hawk G4 but they're built similar to the newest BM series saw which I have one of.. I personally say the old Ultras are the better saws that I have used.. G4 with the cast iron uprights I think were built better / more solid than the new BM series saw.. but again, I've never used or even seen in person a G4.. Again, hard to beat those older RBI Ultra saws.. even the old round barrel clamp style saw I had I feel was a great and well built saw.. Nothing against the new BM series I have but they did cheapen up those saws with some very thin aluminum rocker? whatever it's called.. the part that connects the motor to the lower arm with a bearing in each end of it is much smaller and chintzy compared to the older saws but it's held up to my 500 hours of use so I guess there is that. There are some parts that they made from plastic that used to be machined aluminum, such as the angle bracket mechanism is all plastic on the BM series.. I don't mess with the angle really so it also has held up, but possible wear and tare if someone was moving the angle all the time.. Like my Hegner too other than the small wimpy little table that could hardly hold a small pancake, LOL.. IF they could give a larger table option like the Hawk had I'd bet most people would upgrade their table on a Hegner.. Not really any complaints on them from me other than the table. In fact.. be a really tough call for me between the Hawk and Hegner if Hegner did have a large table option... I'd probably go with Hegner then.. for sure would if the new BM series is all that was out there.. but between the Ultra and Hegner with the newer up front tension system and the quick clamp that Hegner has with the large table.. that'd be a tough call for me. Oh almost forgot the other thing on the Hegner is why in the world would they put the dust blower in the upper arm so it blows the dust directly at the operator is way beyond my comprehension.. that is about the poorest engineering design I've ever seen..I like that it's in the arm and out of the users way but gotta be a way to blow it to one side or the other rather than in my lap. LOL

Beautiful job, Paul. Pheasants are beautiful birds. Enjoyed seeing this piece. Dick

I hope you feel better soon. I have no excuse, I am just not fond of making frames.

Well I do not know about any of the newer RBI saws because mine have lasted so long and will continue to. But I have sort of put scrolling on the side an do alot more lathe work. The only things IO ad to change on the RIB was the plastic bottom blade holder and made them from some spring steel so that solved that. Never touched those wedges after I zeroed in the saw first try. Just never saw a need and they are as sharp edged as first bought. The other thing I replaced on both saws was the front blade tension lever which does wear out but easy fix. Also had some bad blade holding blocks because the pin bent and threw off the blade travel. Took some research to find that one. But again simple fixes. I enjoyed the use of those saws and they made me alot of money over the years. Have fun with your Hegner. I did not like them but had one before I bought the Rbi saws. Do not like their blade system. Very reliable saw though. We all fall in love with the saw we grow into and nothing wrong with that. This happens with all tools. I can go into wood lathe likes and dislikes too now that I have used them for quite a few years now.

Beautiful piece, Paul. I also have a few projects needing frames. I've started them but the cath lab got in the way. I'm hoping I'll feel up to finishing a couple this weekend.

A question does come to mind that might need some clarification. In the past I have tried working with patterns, that I scanned from books that I have purchased, trying to alter them in Inkscape. I uploaded my scanned patterns to get some of the Inkscape gurus to help me with what I was trying to do. How would I work around that situation? Let me be clear that none of these patterns were bought individually. They were either from Steve Good or from Fox Chapel books. This seems to be an area that needs to be cleared up. Thanks Travis for your patience.

Wow! Very nice piece. How big is it? As for pheasants, We are very fortunate. Our land abuts a wildlife management area. It seems to be teeming with pheasants. I attribute that to two winters in a row that weren’t too terribly bad.

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I see this is basically a testimonial for the Hegner saw which is fine. I had one and yes they are built to last. They are a saw with the scroller in mind. never heard of people doing the modifications you mention but I assume it is possible. You read many times here how many people take saws apart to fix, and how many times questions come up about how to fix. I agree with you if something breaks repair with OEM parts. They were designed for the saw. I do disagree with you as far as stay away from RBI saws. These saws fall in same catagory as the Hegner. They were built for the scroller. yes they probably went through more changes over the years but I have 2 early 1990's saws and they work as well today as they did when bought. I have a ton of hours on them. and did no heavy maintenance on them because they did not need any. I did replace a few parts that wear out but no big deal. The parallel arm saws are all so much alike and probably many are built in the same plants. I agree they have a greater tendency to break down more and quicker. But these are mid range saws and are still a step up from many cheap lower end saws. They fit the needs of those who are not in the scrolling business but still enjoy the hobby. They are affordable and maybe do not bring high resale value they serve their purpose. Take care of any tool will allow it to last longer for sure. I believe what counts alot is the aftermarket customer service and parts dept. You get that with saws like Hegner and RBI. Just a observation from your post.

Thanks! I agree that sometimes people need a reminder.

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After a long, cold winter I'm again able to do some scrolling out in my scroller shed without freezing my .... Here's a Russ Beard design cut into 1/4 inch Baltic birch with Pegas 1 & 3 MGT blades. It was stained white, added a black backer and placed into a frame made from scrap 3/4 inch pine stained gray. Finished size with frame is 10.25 x 13.5 inches. I really like Russ Beard's designs and have already started another. Lots of holes, but easy to cut.

Welcome to the Village Vern from Australia. Marg

Great sales. I just bought some aspen. I use this in my pen turning as well as other things. Should be good quality. I always had great luck with this company. Last winter I bought a bunch of BB plywood from them and all were excellent quality. Thanks for the heads up.

Welcome from Southern Europe!

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

Welcome from Delaware. Steve Good has a few bee patterns you may like.

Scrollernation, I agree with most of your post. I have and use a 22" Hegner that I bought new. I would like your thoughts on the use of spiral blades in a Hegner vs a parallel link saw. The way I am seeing it is my Hegner has 13" from the blade to the arm bearing; a typical parallel saw has about 2" to the first bearing. It seems to me that this would cause more wear and tear on the Hegner not withstanding the superior bearings in the Hegner, if spiral blades were the primary blades used. Thoughts?