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Wanted to do something to remember the beautiful Pheasants, which used to be plentiful in our area. Now it is very exciting to see one. Been hearing on but have not spotted him yet. This is a Mike Williams pattern, 1/4" BB. Both straight and spiral blades were used. Got to take a day and make frames, I have 4 pictures waiting for frames.

Dog Portrait - Abby pattern by Gayle at the Scroll Saw Cafe. I enlarged the pattern to fit the wood. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 12" square and backed with black mat board. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. I kept the large pieces in place for sanding the fuzzies off the back side. After sanding, a light coat of spray Shellac, another light sanding with a Mac Mop, and a final coat of spray Lacquer Clear Gloss. Comments welcome.

I enjoyed cutting the last lighthouse pic, so I made another one.

I have seen several of Steve's patterns uploaded here, whole and in part, in the past. This is just a reminder that he doesn't want the patterns uploaded to other sites. See today's blog post.

Wedding Rings pattern designer unknown. I used 1/2" solid Hard Maple. The object is 6" high x 6 1/2" wide. Cut on the Pegas scroll saw using Pegas #1 and #3 MGT blades. The #1 for the letters and numbers. After sanding, one coat spray Shellac and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Satin. Comments welcome.

2 people ordered my hats. Both orders are from ex-co-workers. One wanted Red Oak ! He wanted a symbol called Ahm. Being one with the universe. Flat brim. The other guy chose Padauk !! This guy wanted a bear showing claws. Brim curved. If you bend Padauk let's form a new discusion. It did not bend like other wood did. So I had to experiment. Me. Mark Eason

Thanks for the reminder. This is also a reminder that only patterns you have designed yourself can be uploaded to SSV. Please don't post other people's patterns, even if they are free. These talented artists are gracious enough to share their work, but they want to be able to control how their patterns are distributed. Reposting just strips that away from them. So, if someone is interested in a pattern you found somewhere else, point them in the right direction and provide a link to where they can download it for themselves. With that said, if anybody sees that one of Steve's patterns has been uploaded here on SSV, please flag it for me to review so I can remove it. Thanks all!

Ray: The simplest way to do it is behind the scenes Ask if anyone is available to help with your request then the 2 of you can P.M. or email each other. Fab4

Well I had plans of going with a medium blue and that didn’t work out. I had to go with plan B.

Got it done. Only needs a dip in BLO . I am very pleased with the result. Happy dance.

I asked chatgpt to give me a list of categories of this village. then I wanted it to add tip and tricks into each section. I had to tell it a few it missed. pasted below.... **Categorized Tips & Advice for Scroll Saw Art Forms** --- ### 1. Intarsia - Use woods with natural contrasting colors (e.g., walnut, maple, cherry). - Shape pieces using a drum sander or Dremel for depth. - Dry-fit often—subtle changes can throw off alignment. - Use reference photos to inform contours and shadows. - Avoid plywood—solid wood gives better shaping results. --- ### 2. Functional Projects - Reinforce weak joints with dowels or glue blocks. - Choose durable woods like oak or maple for longevity. - Use templates for repetitive shapes (e.g., handles, brackets). - Ensure all moving parts (e.g., lids, drawers) are sanded smooth. --- ### 3. Portrait - Start with high-contrast photos and simplify in photo editing software. - Use #2 or #3 blades for fine facial detail. - Use a lightbox or tape over a window to align multi-page patterns. - Back portraits with black felt, matte board, or velvet for depth. --- ### 4. Fretwork - Drill small, precise pilot holes to reduce tear-out. - Use fresh blades and slow speed for intricate cuts. - Tape top and bottom of the stack to reduce splinters. - Clean up fine cuts with needle files or micro-sanding tools. --- ### 5. Trivets - Use hardwood for strength (e.g., maple, beech). - Avoid excessive inside cuts to maintain stability. - Round over edges for a finished look and safer handling. - Apply heat-resistant finishes or leave unfinished for safer use. --- ### 6. Puzzles - Use softer woods like poplar or Baltic birch for smoother cutting. - Number or mark pieces on the back before cutting. - For name puzzles, slightly round edges for easier handling. - Add pegs or knobs for younger children’s puzzles. --- ### 7. Ornaments & Seasonal Decor - Lightweight woods like basswood or thin plywood are ideal. - Include a small hanging hole or loop in the design. - Seal with clear coat to protect delicate areas. - Consider stack cutting for efficiency. --- ### 8. Layered Art / Segmentation - Paint before assembly for cleaner results. - Use a numbering or labeling system to track layers. - Slightly round exposed edges for depth. - Use flat spray adhesive to tack layers without glue seepage. --- ### 9. Inlay & Marquetry Cut both the inlay and background at the same time for tight fits. Use veneers or thin woods for better layering. Apply thin CA glue or wood glue with a toothpick. Clamp flat during drying to avoid warping. Use an angle calculator or bevel gauge to precisely match angled cuts when inserting thicker wood into a base—this ensures flush, clean seams with minimal gaps. --- ### 10. Lettering & Signage Use bold, clean fonts for better readability. Sand and seal inside edges to prevent fraying. Layered backings can improve visibility on light-colored walls. Use double-sided tape or mounting tape for easy hanging. --- ### 11. Finishing (Including Dye) Sand progressively up to 320+ grit before applying finishes. Use wood dyes for vibrant color that maintains grain visibility. Test dyes on scrap wood to preview results. Apply clear coats like shellac or polyurethane to protect and enhance. Use steel wool between coats for silky-smooth finishes. Avoid oil finishes under water-based topcoats—they may not bond well. Use painter’s tape to mask off joints or areas not to be dyed. --- ### 12. Compound Cutting Use stacked patterns—glue side and top views on adjoining faces of a square blank. Drill entry holes before interior hollowing. Use aggressive skip-tooth or reverse blades (#5 or #7) for thick cuts. Cut one side, tape the offcut back in place, rotate, then cut the second side. Wrap the blank in packing tape to reduce friction and heat. Sand inner curves with files or rotary tools. Practice on pine/poplar before moving to hardwoods. Use CA glue and blue tape to temporarily rejoin pieces between cuts.

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There is always talk on here about spiral blades, some like, some hate. I think a lot of people are thinking in terms of you use them, that is all you can use. I use them often as well as straight blades. When I first started scrolling a lot, I used only spiral blades, mainly because I wanted to do intricate pictures. I watched videos of Charles Dearing scrolling, and that is what he used. So I thought that was what had to be used. And it was pretty much all he could use, His pictures were measured in so many feet x so many feet. Anyway, after some time, I decided to try straight blades. I agree that they give a cleaner cut. So long story shortened. I now use both. There are times when straight blades are best. The last picture, I did, the pheasant one, I used both. Sometimes I used both to cut out one piece. In the picture below, I show some of the places where I switched to spiral blades. In real small cuts, I want to shape as opposed to just drilling a hole, because a drilled hole looks like a drilled hole. I do not like that. I circled where I used a spiral because where there were small cuts, and using a straight blade would mean having to move the wood a lot to make a very small cut. I put lines with arrows pointing to where I switched to spirals, because again more convenient for making the jagged lines for hair, feathers, or tree branches. There are times when you do not want a clean, smooth cut. Instead of having to turn the wood for every little bump in or out, you can just slightly move the wood side to side. One other place (not required in this Picture) that I switch to spirals is to increase the kerf when veining I first cut the vein line with a straight blade, then switched to a spiral and cut it again. The spiral will follow the straight blade cut if you let it do its own thing and don't try to force the cut. The reason I make this post, mainly for newer scrollers to understand that it is not either/or. They both have a good purpose. This is my opinion only. Take it for whatever it is worth.

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Been a woodworker for 50 years but new to scrolling this year. These are my first two Sheila Landry designs I did in 1/2 inch cherry

I agree, I think that's your best bet. We just want to make sure we're not inadvertently sharing patterns that we didn't design ourselves.

I see this is basically a testimonial for the Hegner saw which is fine. I had one and yes they are built to last. They are a saw with the scroller in mind. never heard of people doing the modifications you mention but I assume it is possible. You read many times here how many people take saws apart to fix, and how many times questions come up about how to fix. I agree with you if something breaks repair with OEM parts. They were designed for the saw. I do disagree with you as far as stay away from RBI saws. These saws fall in same catagory as the Hegner. They were built for the scroller. yes they probably went through more changes over the years but I have 2 early 1990's saws and they work as well today as they did when bought. I have a ton of hours on them. and did no heavy maintenance on them because they did not need any. I did replace a few parts that wear out but no big deal. The parallel arm saws are all so much alike and probably many are built in the same plants. I agree they have a greater tendency to break down more and quicker. But these are mid range saws and are still a step up from many cheap lower end saws. They fit the needs of those who are not in the scrolling business but still enjoy the hobby. They are affordable and maybe do not bring high resale value they serve their purpose. Take care of any tool will allow it to last longer for sure. I believe what counts alot is the aftermarket customer service and parts dept. You get that with saws like Hegner and RBI. Just a observation from your post.

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Wordle 1,409 6/6 Can you believe it. Not one correct letter the first 4 tries. I thought, boy you are a dummy. Just a "WAG" to get it.

Yea it is finally finished. It has five coats of spray lacquer.

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I have not been on here for a while. This discussion caught my eye. We all end up with a saw that hopefully meets our needs. When I joined our newly formed club in 2004 most of the "seasoned" scrollers had Hegners the rest of us had an assortment. My wife bought me a New Delta SS350 simple great clamps, A year later I bought myself a Hawk G4-26. Still have it. For me the clamps were easier to use than the Hegners, you could easily top feed the Hawk. I still have it but it is going to my nephew shortly. I now have a used EX-16 with Pegas clamps (travel saw) and a new Pegas 21". I like and prefer the tilting arm vs table for bevel cutting. I do maintain all of my own saws. The Hawk is and has been awesome. and so far the Ex and the new Pegas are behaving themselves.

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Here it is with the top ring done. Now it just needs a finish. I am thinking spray lacquer.

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Spring sell some very good prices. https://ocoochhardwoods.com/sale/

Very beautiful piece. I think these "Basket weave" turnings are my favorites. I can see where that could make you cross-eyed! Check this one out. This was done by my Turner friend, and I find it pretty amazing. Segmented with a twist. I have been thinking of joining the Turner club. It is very active, and I like to being around woodworkers, no matter their discipline. Been to a couple of their meetings, and it was fun.

This all sounds like the old Ford/Chevy argument to me. The saw that works best for you and you get the most enjoyment out of is the right one for you.

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I was going to suggest the same.

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This is also a Steven Good design. Made this for my grandson who loves all things truck. He is thrilled with it

Look on Amazon for Crafter's LED lights. All different styles, lengths and colors. Not much to them.

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My daughter recently lost her pet of many years. I made this for her as a memento. Murphy.pdf

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Sparkey, that is a beautiful piece, Paul that's funny I was thinking of joining a carvers group, because there is no scroll saw club here, RJ

I have both an EX-21 and a Pegas saw. I don't care if I have to rebuild them once a year. The speed and simplicity of the blade changes and tensoning (set once and forget it) wins for me. It is why I purchased the EX-21.

Use what works for you and brings you joy. As long as the saws are working as they should its all the same. Hegners don’t have arm bearings. They have bushings that get lubricated thats part of why they run so smooth and are so reliable and that design can handle thrust loading from the side well. Also a reason they are less maintenance and lower operating cost. What I like about the EX series though is that the motor is adjustable so you can get that blade perfectly vertical! Excellent for those blades. But again you have a Hegner so you have that blade stroke already and a removable plastic insert that you can chew up instead of your nice table!

To see all of the projects, scroll to the end of this post At the end of December, a friend gave me a collection of hardwood cutoffs including maple, mahogany, and poplar boards that varied from 1", 2' and 3" in thickness. I was overwhelmed by all the choices and couldn't decide which project I wanted to do next. I studied the selections in the Scrollsaw Village Pattern Library and found five patterns that would be great for carved fretwork projects. I have always worked on one project at a time and decided to try something new and work on all five projects at once and vary which piece I was working on. Start by adhering the pattern to the wood with 3 M Super 77 adhesive. Drill vertical pilot holes with a drill press. Cut all scroll work with New Spiral 1 and 3 blades by Flying Dutchman. Carve the scrolled fretwork with a Foredom Rotary Carver using various bits and cutters. Add color with artist oil and acrylic paints. Sand and finish with Minwax Wipe on Poly. Backers for pieces 2,4,and 5 were made from 1/4" luan sprayed with satin black paint. This first project, Tiny Kitten, was designed by Steve Curtis and cut on a mahogany board 11" x 11" x 2" thick. The other 4 projects will be posted on the forum each week. Thanks, Dick Mira

Last Christmas I made set of Gnomes, they became popular, so I decided to make a big set of holidays gnomes. Set includes 24 patterns: 3 gnomes for each of 8 holidays: Christmas, Thanksgiving Day, Independence Day, Easter, Halloween, Valentine's Day, St Patrick Day and Labor Day. Size of each gnome is about 6,5 x 4 inches, consists of 4 layers, stand and hanging ring are optional. Video of making one of gnomes Holidays gnomes pattern