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Lucky2

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Everything posted by Lucky2

  1. Lucky2
    MrT doesn't look anywhere's near this good nowadays, I saw him on the tv lately and did he ever look bad. Len
  2. Lucky2
    Yes Randy, I've seen the Excelsior saw, they look a lot like the original EX. Thankfully, I won't need to buy one, my EX21 is only a few years old. And it hasn't been used for over two years now, so it's almost like new and it should last me a long long time. Hopefully, I'll soon be able to start using it again, sadly, I'll probably have to learn to cut all over again. Len
  3. Lucky2
    Brag on Dave, your quality of work is well worth bragging about. Len
  4. Lucky2
    Jim, that's a lot of dragons, you must be seeing them in your sleep. I don't see a picture of the dragon with their heads looking up, can you post one? Len
  5. Lucky2
    I have a question, I hope someone can answer. Is there not going to be any more Ex's made, what happened that there's not? Len
  6. Lucky2
    Great review Randy, thanks for sharing it with us. I don't like the look of the top and back of the saw, it looks silly to not have the top cover the whole stand. I have a question, Is the saw mounted on the stand, or is it part of the stand set-up? In the picture it looks like the saw is part of the stand, and that it wouldn't work on a bench-top. I have a tilt meter on my saw, it's mounted on the side of the upper arm. I've been using the tilt meter ever since I bought the saw, Iliked how it was so accurate in setting up any angle I wanted. I have never had to replace the battery on my tilt meter, and I've been using it for years. All I do to preserve the battery life, is to turn it off until I need it to set an angle. Len
  7. Lucky2
    I don't charge any customer sales tax, never have and never will. I buy all of my tools and materials without claiming anything against my taxes, therefore I don't charge taxes. This is a hobby to me, not a business. And for the small amount that I sell, the government are in money if I don't charge taxes. Because if I have to charge taxes, I will charge everything I can against my personal taxes. Len
  8. Lucky2
    For a fix like this, I would use CA glue also. Use the thin type, it will seep down into the crack in the wood better then any other type of glue. You can buy special tips that fit onto the original tip of the glue bottle, they are fine pointed so you can apply the glue to an exact spot. Len
  9. Lucky2
    Gonzo, you should pretreat your plywood with a wood conditioner, using it makes it so that the stain doesn't penetrate so deeply into the wood. Actually, it's like a light coating of shellac, it stops all blotchiness. Len
  10. Lucky2
    Amber, is this photo in the right orientation, or is it sideways to the way it should look? Len
  11. Lucky2
    Outstanding. Len
  12. Lucky2
    Perry, if your going to get some poplar milled, you better be right there when it gets cut so you can coat the ends of the boards to protect them from splitting. Poplar is really bad for splitting and twisting, it takes special care to preserve it. Len
  13. Lucky2
    Don, I disagree, it doesn't need to be kiln dried IMO. The stock can be cut and left to air dry for a while, then it is the very best to use for puzzles and the like. I hardly ever use kiln dried lumber, I usually have all of my stock sawn at a small bandsaw mill.Yes, kiln dried lumber is optimum, but it's not always necessary to use it. Len
  14. Lucky2
    Sharon, the best way to do it, would be to use some tape to give you access to bare wood after flocking. Take a piece of painter tape, place it on the backer board where it won't be seen when the two pieces will be glued together. Once you've applied the tape, you can apply the adhesive and flocking. The flocking won't stick to the tape, this is what you want. Once the flocking has been done and given a chance to set up, you can then remove the tape revealing the bare wood. It is best if you bend the tape and fold it, so that there is a place to grab a hold of it to pull it off. I hope you understand what I'm trying to describe here, this is what works for me. Len
  15. Lucky2
    Dan, Dave's not looking to remove extra sanding paper, he's wishing the sanding paper was larger so that it would curl up over the edges. Len
  16. Lucky2
    My household insurance covers me for something like this, at least that's what my insurance agent tells me. He says that as long as I'm only teaching someone on occasion and not doing it full time, then my household insurance is all I need. Len
  17. Lucky2
    No Sam, you should keep it now, that you bought it, it will be a useful tool. If I were you, I'd just go out and buy the detail they don't cost very much. You should be able to get a descent one for around thirty bucks or so, and you won't be sorry that you spent the money on it. Len
  18. Lucky2
    Sam, I own numerous types of sanders, and I own both models that you mentioned in your post. I've owned both of them for years, and I couldn't pick one over the other for a favorite. Both of them are top of the line sanders, and one works as good as the other. Actually, I own three orbital sanders, along with the two I already mentioned I own a Porter Cable OS also. It is cheapest of the three, and it works as well as the other two. But, it isn't as nice to use as the other two, it just doesn't feel as good in my hand. If your looking for a sander to sand fret work with, you should be looking for a good quality detail sander. The type that has a triangular shaped sanding pad, it's the type I mostly use on fretwork. It does an amazing job, no matter how fragile the piece is. The detail sanders don't cost a lot of money, and they are great for getting into tight corners. It would be worth your time to look into the detail sander, they are the most gentle type of electric sander there is. Len
  19. Lucky2
    Todd, if the pieces are small, a good way to sand them after cutting them out, is to place them back into the piece of wood they were cut from. Then get yourself a detail/mouse sander and sand away, you will not break anything. I sand like this quite often, I find it helps protect my finger tips when trying to hold the small pieces to be sanded. Len
  20. Lucky2
    Todd, these NHL plaques look nice,but, they all have whiskers. You're not doing enough sanding, and really shows up on the painted pieces. Sorry buddy, but I think you can do better. Len
  21. Lucky2
    Yes, it is the old Berry Basket patterns. When the Berry Basket was being sold, the original owners sold CD's with most of their patterns on them. The people who bought those CD's, were allowed to do whatever they wanted to with the patterns. They could sell them, or they could give them away. The only patterns they ween't allowed to share, were some large clock projects. For some reason, they were not included in with the other patterns. If any member here wanted to set up a site to sell these patterns, there would be no issue with copyright problems. The only thing needed to protect themselves, is proof that they bought the group of patterns from Berry Basket. I bought the patterns from Berry Basket, but I lost all of them in a computer crash. I should have downloaded them onto CD's, but before I got around to doing that, I lost them. Len
  22. Lucky2
    Randy, it might be well worth your time to check it out, but, I've never heard of an 18" EX. Len
  23. Lucky2
    I think this is something best left up to Travis to decide, he's the one that has final say on all matters. The image might not bother most people, but there's always a chance of upsetting someone. To post a pattern on the subject is one thing, because the pattern can be posted in a special section (mature) that holds these patterns. People know before they look in that section that the patterns might be offensive, so they're prewarned. To post a picture of your finished work is different, people will not be prewarned that what they're about to look at may be offensive. Len
  24. Lucky2
    Tuner, if you have the funds, buy the Dewalt. These two saws are similar, they are not the same as each other. The Delta saw is built with lower quality parts, it was meant to be a mid-range priced saw. It was mainly built to fill in the gap, between the lower quality saws and the Dewalt. If you buy the Delta saw, you are buying a lower quality saw. You be the judge, is better quality worth an extra $80.00? Len
  25. Lucky2
    No Casey, blades don't generally go bad over time. I have some blades that are over twenty years old, and they work as they were meant to. Blades can rust, and that will make them break quite quickly. As long as the blades are kept reasonably dry, I don't think you will have any issues with them. I've tried using spiral blades, and I had happen to me the same thing as you describe. I couldn't stop the blades from breaking as soon as I touched the wood, I just considered it an inability of mine to be able to use spiral blades. Len
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