Lucky2
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Everything posted by Lucky2
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Nice plague Troy, thanks for your service. Len
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Brett, I would use pine or poplar, either one would do a good job. For anything 1/8", I would probably use baltic birch plywood unless the plywood edge is to noticeable. Len
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Frank, you've been busy, nice reuse of the table top. Len
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Brett, if you a seriously thinking of cutting this ship out of 1/8" walnut, I want to wish you good luck. 1/8" Walnut stock is very fragile, I think you will have a lot of breakage. A backer would help prevent some of the breakage, but you don't need to use anything birch or expensive. For a backer, you should use the cheapest 1/8" sheet material you can find, meranti isn't 1/8" but it does a good job as a backer. A #1 or a #3 blade would do the cutting, and I use a scroll reverse type of blade.
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Iggy, there wouldn't be that much difference in hardness of poplar between the two stores. As mentioned above, there's a scale that rates the hardness of the different types of wood. You had to have gotten a different type of wood then poplar, was there a label on the piece of wood to state that it was poplar? Len
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Monti, isn't there any contact info on the book you bought, that info is usually on the books. You could do a google search for them, something might show up on that search. Len
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Aggie, for me, I usually pour the finish over the project to finish it, no matter if it's plywood or solid wood. What I do, is I use two parts ployurethane, and one part paint thinner mixed together. I lay the project flat in a large cookie sheet, then I slowly pour the mixture over the whole thing, making sure to fill and cover all of the project. Then when finished covering it with the mixture, I take it out of the mixture and let it drip off the excess back into the cookie sheet.After allowing the excess to drip off for a while, I wipe the extra mixture off with a rag. Then I hang it to finish drying the mixture, I will check it out every so often to see if there's any finish bleeding from the open spaces. This may seem to be a lot of work, but it really isn't once you've done it. Len P.S. I only use this dip or pour method on flat surfaces, I've never tried it on 3 demensional projects.
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I use Elmer's spray glue, I've used it for years and I've never ever had a pattern lift on me. There is a shelf life to these types of glue, I don't recall what it is but there is one. So, maybe you people are buying old outdated glue. When it's time for me to buy a new can of spray glue, I always buy from the back of the stock. The store clerks are supposed to rotate the stock, this means they are supposed to put the new stock (glue) in this case to the back of the shelf. I don't know if the store does rotate their stock, but I know I've never had an issue with any spray glue. So, maybe I'm onto something, try buying your next can by picking from the back of the shelf. I do this with most things I buy, I have done for years, ever since I was a store clerk. Back then, I was taught that glue and other types of woodworking products do have a good before date also. Len
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Ray, either your tension is not set right, or you are forcing the cut. You can get results like this from both these issues, but I would think that this is from a slack blade. Len
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Impressive! Len
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I don't know about most you guys, but when I buy the cheapest I can find. I usually end up paying more in the long run, it's one of those Murphy's Law type of things. It's kinda like, when you buy the cheapest, you end up with the cheapest. Which in turn means, that you'll probably have to buy more new ones in the very near future. I no longer buy the cheapest of anything, if I can't afford quality I wait until I can. Now, if the bearings being talked about are all from the same manufacturer, and they all have the same numbers that match up. Then hell yeah, go for the cheaper ones as they're all the same. But ,if the numbers don't match up perfectly, then you will be getting poorer quality for the lower price. Len
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Are these the ones that Steve Good was talking about, if not, they're exactly the same? Len
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Dick, we anxiously await your return to the Village. Hopefully, you'll have a safe and happy move from one place to the other. Take care, and get back to us as soon as you can. Len
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Hmmmm, he looks how I feel since my wife and I separated. Len
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Steve, you did a great job cutting this one out, but that's the norm or you. One thing I don't like, and that's your choice of hangers. The brass wire takes away from the cutting, personally, I think a sawtooth hanger would be better. If the wire was connected to the cutting where the lure is, then it would look more normal or like it should. I'm sorry if you think this critique is to harsh, it's meant to be constructive not mean. Len
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Outstanding! Len
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For a project like this, I always use sawtooth hangers. Len
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Nice job Ray, especially as how this is your first one. I generally use a #5 blade, and I cut at a slower rate then normal. I find that by cutting at a slower rate, that the blade does a better job on details in the piece. A reverse tooth blade would be the reason for the piece to keep jumping around on you, you would be better off using a different type of blade. The wood getting hot is normal, it's from the friction. I find that it is better to have the blank that is a bit longer then the pattern, I like to have at least 1/4" of wood above the uppermost cut line. For the base, I like to have the blank bottom be the bottom of the project, so make sure it is cut true. Len
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A clearcoat or oil finish is what I would suggest you use now that it is glued together. If you intended to stain it, you should have stained it before it was assembled. If you really want to stain it now, I would suggest that you use a product called Minwax Prestain. Brush it on in a thick coat. or even better spray it on, that way you will get an even coating on the open sections. That should stop the endgrain from being much darker then the flatgrain on the face of the item. After prestaining it apply the stain color of choice, it should apply evenly over the project. Len
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Aggie, you just can't go wrong, when you use one of Gayle's patterns. Nicely done! Len
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Oh so true! Len
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Steve, by doing it this way, you are just distributing the fine dust throughout your whole shop. The fan will keep the dust off of the pattern line, but it also puts more dust into the air you breathe. Sure the box fan will pick-up a lot of dust, but it will not take a lot of floating dust out of the air. It picks up the majority of the dust falling from the saw, but it does little to nothing for dust that is being continually blown into the air. If this is the set-up your going to use, please make sure to wear a good quality respirator. Len
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Ray, if your just starting to cut 3-D compound items, the best thing to do is to start out with some 2x2 stock. With 2" being the maximum amount any scroll saw can cut, 2" stock is perfect as it's not a true 2". If what you want to cut doesn't require that amount of thickness, then you can always glue up whatever thickness you need. Pine is an easy wood to work with, it might be the best wood to start out with. As to what to buy on the net, you can compound cut most any type of wood. The issue is to get the wood the same width as thickness, so almost any thickness of wood can be used. It can be glued together to get the final thickness and widths needed, doing it this way you can sometimes make patterns in to glued up blank. Len
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Holy smokes Dan, that's an incredible outcome. There is one change I would make, I wold paint the enclosed trailer either silver or white. I think it would look more realistic, if painted one of those two colors. Do you have any pictures of the interior, I can see a bit of the work but not much? Len
