JTTHECLOCKMAN

Call RBI and they will be able to tell you.

https://www.h2ouse.org/sande-plywood/ I built my entire shop from Sande wood. Stable wood and back when I did my shop some 30 years ago or so. I got it at Home Depot very reasonable. One thing very different with BB(more layers and thinner layers) and Sande plywood is amount of layers. When they make plywood they alternate grain direction on layers to give stability and less warping and one reason you do not see as much grain raising as his problem.

That is end grain on plywood. It is swelling the grain because of the water based paint. Sealing it as suggested is probably a way out. Or use hard woods. Sande plywood is not the best plywood on the market. The top surface is fine but end grain will expand when wet.

Rest In Peace. The pen turning forum I am involved with started a thing where we try to keep tract of as many members as we can and if anyone comes across an obit of a member we pass it on to the owner and he has set up a program where he can have a "In Memoriam" notice attached to their sign-on names because over the years many many members have past through our site. It was founded in 2004 and most of the info has been saved even though we have gone through a few different carriers for various reasons. Lots of times examples or threads are referred to which are older members that have past and the newer members did not know but they can now see the marker next to their names. It also honors those that have past through the site for many of these members have left behind valuable info and their knowledge that still today rings valid and gets past down. It is a very close knit family on that site and everyone is always willing to share. membership keeps rising every year. This site is not like that but maybe there is possibility to incorporate some sort of Memoriam or list of past members.

I think we all have gone through the dulldrums. Just nature. I stop scrolling ever since my shows were shut down with pandemic and never returned. there are no shows in my area that draw big crowds because scrolling projects do not sell well any more. I took up pen turning and making my own pen blanks. It is a wide open field that lends itself to the imagination because there are no specific patterns to follow. Also pens are so easy to gift, use as raffles and just sell. They take up so much less space and can be put in highend Jewlers stores if you have connections. So much can be done with a pen and I also on occasion use my woodworking talents to make display stands as well as display boxes. I believe my tooling will have to be sold or given away by the remaining members of the family when I pass on. Will it be a burden yes but if they want the $$$$ work for it is my motto. My scrollsawn project inventory is quite extensive also. Someday I will move much of it through auctions and things but I can probably say I too am done with scrolling for a hobby. Been there done that. As we age it gets tougher to do the things we use to and yes it is a relaxing hobby but there are other hobbies as well. Good luck to you and your future plans.

Only because it fits in the thread. If stand alone and I still do not know if it says measure twice and cut once or measure twice and cuss once or something else.

That is beautiful. There is some talent there. Now that is worthy of a scrollsaw pattern but of course in English.

If I were you I would route your own in. Every shelf I made when I was selling I routed my own keyholes in. here is a few jigs I made for the shelves I made. They make keyhole holders for pegboards too that I hade to use a few times when I displayed in stores. My shelves that I used for displays all were hung with key holes. You have to route that bracket anyway or else it makes the top of shelf sit proud and has a lean to it. If you route them it is more professional looking and sits flush on the wall. They have different size key hole bits too. Now there are many ways to find these holes when hanging the shelves too. Some do alot of measuring and some use tape but you have to plan on your anchors too.

They came out real nice. I am thinking of using that pattern for a display box for any Halloween pens I make. I am gathering some objects to cast in a pen these days. probably won't be ready for this year but next, Thanks for showing.

And that was because you stained one side. It is like when you use veneers. To equalize the absorption of water and moisture to both sides of a project. The same goes for finishing. If you seal only one side you can open yourself to warping of the project. This why dipping is a great way to finish our scrollsawn projects. and why I never had a warping problem. Plus like I said fret sawing helps relieve stress points within the wood

Actually warping can come from a few different reasons. All boards have internal stress built into them from how the tree grew. So many times that stress is released as the boards are sliced. Also boards cut from various sides of a tree due to how the board grew facing sun and things like this adds to it. Moisture in the boards when they were cut can lead to warping. Stacking and drying can lead to stress of the boards causing warping. Weather kiln dried or air dried can lead to boards warping so my point is too many factors to pinpoint why your board is warping. No way of knowing if buying off the internet what you are getting but sometimes your better vendors take the extra steps to choose better material and thus can reflect in pricing. So do not judge a book by its cover. When you get boards that were shipped it is always good to store and stack them so that are stickered to allow air drying before use. Those woods can come through so many different climate changes and need to settle down to yours. So do not be in a hurry to use and plan ahead. As far as BB plywood, that too falls in the same category and especially today because harvesting is being rushed more so these days as opposed to yesteryears. But plywood in itself is a more stable material just because the way it is manufactured and I do not need to go into that because we should all know how plywoods are made. Now with this all said one advantage we as scrollers have over cabinet makers and others that build dimensioned objects is that when we scroll fret work into a piece of wood no matter what it is it will release stress factors within that wood. This is not to say though it still can not warp because it will. Sealing with finishes does help. Framing pieces with more substantial pieces can help also. I am not familiar with the product you are all calling " Project Panels" I may have to look into this stuff some. If you can get in various species of woods is a great thing and if as stable as you say then need to see what it is made of because if all plywood then it has the same aspects of warping as all wood products do. Now the talk of laser use. remember one thing too when you apply heat to wood you change the characteristics of it too and can subject it to warping in ways it was not designed to. Remember wood is a natural product and any altering its characteristics can do things This goes for laser work, staining and finishing, cutting and thinning, and even painting. Now I too have a shop full of tools and always dimensioned my own lumber. I use very little BB I like the look of wood grain BB is dull but if painting and coloring then it could be what you need. Hate to paint natural woods. But one thing I always had the ability to do was to select my own boards from reliable lumber yards. Both domestics and exotics. Breaking down woods for projects is all part of the fun and being able to call yourself a woodworker. ornaments are so easy to break down especially with todays tools such as battery operated saws and straight edge devices. You break them down to squares to fit your pattern. Not much waste at all. It is the same when doing scrolled projects. Lay patterns on top of wood and cut out. Maximize all woods very easily. We each have different needs and use what makes sense for what we do. If you are going through tons of sheets of BB for 1000's of ornaments then buy in bulk. and prepare for it. Store it in a manner that will stay flat. Again if we are to be woodworkers it takes more than a scrollsaw to get the job done. Happy woodworking.

Basically the same as Nitro or Deft spray cans. Now like all finishes, dry time is not cure time. Usually 15 to 20 minutes between coats to dry. To fully cure 21 days for water based lacquers and 30 days for oil based lacquers. Now if a project is not abused you can get away with sooner. but same goes for Polyurethanes. Finishing is a process. I never spray in Temps below 60 degrees. I heard 50 degrees is probably the cut off. The smell is nothing much but can not say nil. As far as finish quality with the stuff I use it is as good as Deft spray can. Now I also use Deft for smaller projects. You coat as you do with oil based lacquers. It melts into each other. Now one thing is needed is a air compressor that can keep up with air supply so when I do spraying with my air gun I have to do either in my garage or outdoors because my larger compressor is in garage. Now if you are doing small projects and not many at a time you could get away with a smaller compressor. I can not and that is why I will use the rattle cans for smaller projects.

This is the water based lacquer lacquer I have been using for many years. I spray with my HVLP gun and perfect finish every time. Now I use this when I have alot of projects to do at once. I always used for my desk watches because I made those in large batches because one of my top sellers. Also used it on my billiardball clock bases. One other large projects was these guitar CD racks. So much easier with a spray gun to get a nice finish and with lacquer no sanding between coats because one coat melts into last coat for easy build up. Easy clean up with water and then run DNA through gun to dry water up. https://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/water-based-lacquers/

There are many times when rules and tape measures are actually marked wrong. It is always a good idea to buy quality and to check the measuring device ahead of time and throw away any ones that are mismarked.

Well again my thoughts are this is not an answer. Stick with the cans and or get an airbrush. Ornaments are so small. I know price of Lacquer has gone up but it still a full proof way of finishing. Good luck.

I am confused. What are you wanting to use this for? Paint or finish? 2 different sprays nozzles and different pressures needed. Also different finishes need different nozzles and pressure. Another question what are you planning on painting or finishing? Have you thought of an airbrush. require a smaller compressor no air line needed outside of airhose off compressor, and way less noisy and control of product is spot on. if using water base materials then very easy cleanup. if you are talking ornament work why do you need such a big tool? Way too much overspray using cans, spray guns, or anything like that unless you do some sort of assembly line system where things are lined up and the overspray is not a concern.

It will become your go to saw. I love both mine and put many many hours on them.

I always had more than one project going at one time and still do this. I have at least 10 different pens in various stages of complete sitting on the workbench right now. It is just who I am. If I cut and dimension wood for a project I always would plan on other jobs for that size wood so thus more than one project at a time. Now If I have to make a certain project for a customer or a friend or family member than sure I will do till completed. That goes without saying. But if no sales then you just do not shut saws down. you start other projects. Doing one project at a time is soooo boring to me. My mind needs to be creating at all times when I am in shop mode.

On occasion a topic comes up here that makes me think back to projects that either worked on years ago and for some reason started but never completed. I must have at least 10 such projects either in various stages of cut out and never assembled or partial cut out. I have a large Dirk Boleman's Clock that all parts are cut and left unassembled or at least I think they are. (do not fully remember). Have a beautiful Dirk Boleman religious plaque (2 in fact) that all parts were cut, frame was built from beautiful rosewood and was going to use some beautiful stained glass as background. I cut the main body of the project out from oak plywood. But when I went to stain it, it turned out too dark and I did not like it so I set it all on the side. That was a huge amount of cutting but I did stack cut them. if I get back to it i will probably do the cutting again using different wood. Not sure. Then I have about 8 religious cross prayer boxes and religious crosses cut and ready for assembly. I put these aside because they did not sell well at my shows for some reason. But I really would like to finish and maybe donate them. Then I have various clocks and desk watches in various stages that I just was using for stock when they sold out I was that far ahead to replenish. But again just stopped selling and doing shows. I should really get all these projects together and take a huge group photo. Boy I would need a wide angle lens. I think back at the amount of scrolling I did over the years is mindboggling to me as I reminisce. My RBI saws owe me nothing because they were my main go to saws. But my main question is are there others that like me have over the years stock piled projects that for some reason or other never finished.? Do you ever think you will finish? What were some of your reasons for not finishing? if you want to include photos that would be nice. maybe did not come out the way you thought for some reason. maybe just lost interest in the project. I do this alot now with my pen making because I want to move onto next idea that quickly. Maybe some just stock pile stock for future shows or sales and leave in various stages but easy to complete when needed. Maybe because they are personalized projects and you leave off names or dates or sayings because of this. Please do not make me the only one left on this island. Help me understand my shortcomings.

I have done a couple projects and actually have a couple that I wish I had finished and maybe will at some time. I had bought many sheets of stained glass years ago and they hopefully are still in tact in basement. But here is one I did and you can guess when. It is a blue stained glass piece behind te scrolling to represent the sky. I also make alot of religious projects that I use various stained glass behind some of the elements. Tough to see on this one but behind the scrolled areas on the steps is red stained glass. Years ago I made many religious prayer box crosses plus religious stand crosses that I used stained glass behind the scrolled cutouts. I would then line the box with felt. meant to hold prayer beads and prayer cards. sorry I do not have any of the photos because they are all still film version. Those are another project that I have many pieces cut but never assembled and would like to finish them too. I think one of these days I am going to dedicate some months in a winter to just finish up some of my started projects and nothing but that. Sounds like an idea but who knows.

Hey you do what you want but to me at those prices what are you gaining? Paints and finishes need mixing and thus have that marble in them so may need to consider that. Any compressor will inflate it as you see they use a bike pump too. But what is regulating how much pressure is needed to spray different products. A pressure regulator on a compressor is not the same as pressure monitoring at the can by no means. I say this because I use pressure tanks in my blank making and see the difference all the time. i too have 3 compressors that are excellent rating and they have pressure gauges on them and safety devices. This is a tin can that says it can hold 100PSI. I highly doubt it. My tanks are rated for 80PSI and are better built than a piece of tin. The valves and threaded parts are not designed for that kind of pressure. Be careful. You would have to buy individual cans for each product unless you clean out each time. Is the can sealed well enough to hold pressure. Each product sprays at different PSI ratings so need to know this. I know about reviews but when the bad reviews are as many as on this I worry. Not all are idiots. That is how I guage a product. I needed a belt for my snow blower that I am reconditioning for this year and looked to buy at Amazon and could find them for half the price I wound up paying but all said junk. So I bought an OEM one and should be fine. As far as waterbased lacquer goes. I buy it in quart cans and always spray with a HVLP gun. Does not raise grain and sprays like Nitros. Good Luck.

I second this. Do not over think it. I personally just lay newspaper on my tablesaw with a plywood base on it and spray away. 3m77 spray.

To me not worth the effort Did you read the reviews on the link you posted? If you are buying quarts or gallons of lacquer then use a spray gun. Buy water base lacquer. It looks and reacts the same as nitrose. Easy to clean up. If doing one or two small items then Deft spray cans are the way to go. It is write-off so money saved is not a thing. Time to refill a can. The spray pattern can vary with the amount of air mixed with product. I just do not see an advantage. I put this in the Pet Rock catagory. just an opinion. Is there some sort of safety on this? Put an air compressor to it and wow. I use a pressure pot to make resin pen blanks and I always have to be aware of amout of pressure put in the tank. It has a gauge and safety valve that will blow if too much is used. I see nothing like that on a tin can. Man I would not touch this with a ten foot pole.

I remember this as well. I always thought that was pretty cool. Mainly portraits of fallen soldiers but also active members.

Do a yard sale. Give to charity. Do church raffles. The list goes on. get into Pen Making!!!!!!!!! Try new things that take time to either learn the process or takes longer to cut.