JTTHECLOCKMAN

Every project is different and all look great. You have been busy. Thanks for showing. Always love seeing your work.

I have made the center wall hanger and a few others like it. Never did the Dome. Just no room to store it for display. They do look nice though.

How is it holding up and any regrets or I should have done ideas?? Who does the dusting of it??

I agree with Kevin on buying full sheets to a point. Just a point to add to that. If you are using alot of it this is the cheapest way for sure and if you can pick and choose, even better. But you need a system to store it if you do not go through it regularly because it will warp and warp it will. Now if you could buy large sheets and cut down to a size you are normally using then it would make it easier to store. I use to do this but have come to realization I do not use much of it so I just started paying a little more and bought what I needed in the sizes I use most. Makes for easy storage flat. I have started making small jigs with this stuff so I may have to rethink this again. But as mentioned there is an option from the big box stores and I have used the so called birch plywood and floor underlayment for things as well. Happy scrolling.

Have a yard sale.

Rocky never square any jig off any part of a tablesaw except the blade. Every measurement comes off the blade. Not the fence not the miter gauge, but the blade. Just a side note.

Ray we are all different. I live in a home so there is always work to do. I love building things and untill I can not do that then I may be like you. Weather you use screws or nails the main thing is to make it work. I like nails and screws and glue and biscuit joinery, dowels for joining as well and the list goes on.

Buy a framing gun to hammer a few nails is not where I want to spend my money. I have nail guns for smaller nails for finishing work. Not that old yet so I still build things.

No not when dipping. After I dip I let them dry in natural state and not pulled down. I wiped them off well.

I too am not seeing the photo but if I understand your question I maybe able to help. You will not like the answer but will give my thoughts. I use to make a ton of those collapsible baskets designed by the Berry Basket. What I had found is that the round circle ones are more prone to recoil when cut due to the grain stress internally. When pushing the basket down you need to turn the basket clockwise as you push down or else the basket does not unfold evenly if at all. Some woods were more prone to this than others such as oak and maples. Had little trouble with mahagony, walnut, yellowheart and canary wood. Being I sold to customers at a show I was able to show them the procedure and explain. I would have them do it there too so that they got to see what I was talking about. Nothing more you can do. At times some of them became relaxed enough due to being opened for some time that they became normal. As I said other shapes such as square, rectangle or heart shaped did not do this. As far as finishing again I always dipped in Danish oil so no problems there. I hope this answers your question or maybe I did not understand it.

I make jigs of all kinds all the time. I use various materials but 3/4" plywood is great. I make oak runners so they keep straight and can glue to bottom of plywood before I nail them.

As I said Ray you do not build anything any more. Nails are still used and I am currently redoing my home and use all size nails all the time. I built my shed hammering in nails one at a time. Frame work, roofing, jigs, Replaced cedar siding on the side of my house, one nail at a time. I n a couple weeks I have to replace a window sill and outside trim. Will nail one nail at a time.

Now that is different. Thought this idea was dead but good to see still alive and hope more patterns come out.

You evidently do not build anything.

I know what you are looking for. I have this router base system for a colt router that I use for precise routing and inlay work. They use to offer a small pen light attachment for a light source but they discontinued making it as it is stated in his write up so they went to a light ring attachment. I do not have this and it is pricy but these accessories are for a highend tool. The idea can be the same weather a small pen light used or a light ring of some sort. With those cheap bases you are better get a small single cell pen light and tape it to the base in some way. https://microfence.com/product/light-ring-kits/ Examples (think outside the box) https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mini-Pen-type-Flashlight-Portable-LED-3W-AAA-Battery-Torch-Lamp/656835749?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=14170&adid=22222222222107490132&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=75110454869959&wl4=pla-4578710025148308:aud-807615483&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=& wl10=Walmart&wl12=656835749_10000014596&wl14=single battery small LED pen light&veh=sem&msclkid=a170bac97e4f1a5e0b38e606664e7f2a https://www.amazon.com/Hatori-Flashlight-Battery-Powered-Emergency-Flashlights/dp/B01M24XPD6 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=single+led+light+battery

Won't answer. Store every way possible. I will tell you this I have ten times more small parts because I do more hobbies that scrollsawing and have a complete woodworking shop. You should see what it takes to store pen turning related stuff.

Is this you and if so what happened?? Never mind I saw your other post. Good luck with that.

I would think adding a light source would be easy. Here is an example of something to get you thinking in right direction. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Light-It-6-in-Silver-Flexible-Neck-LED-Clip-On-Battery-Operated-Multiplex-Task-Light-20010-301/204205348?cm_mmc=Shopping|B|Base|D27L|Multi|NA|PLA|InteriorLighting|71700000038718431|58700004243614128|92700035280812228&msclkid=126be7e9cb12189bab73bb247705ef3a&gclid=CLaoq6OkguICFYG4swod2XoCAg&gclsrc=ds

Good luck with the new saw and hope you make tons of saw dust.

Les take the two top rods off and turn them upside down. Spin those thumbscrews all the way down so not in the way. Put the spring between the thumb nuts and the top plate. As I mentioned in my last post on this. That main spring is fairly stiff. If you go to Home Depot or lowes and go through those bin drawers you may find a lighter spring. If you do and buy 2 of them it will balance the travel evenly and will not bind. You can also try that bottom spring because it is not as stiff. But maybe a little too short. I did not try that. As I said some tweaking and you can make work if you want to drill with it. You could take the 2 springs off that plastic gem and try those.

Kevin is spot on with that response. The one thing I would like to say to those that make their own version of Danish oil which is basically BLO, poly and mineral spirits. , is that you do not include additional driers that help the concoction dry quicker and more evenly in the wood. There are some driers in the BLO but all calculations are off compared to the original thing. Just in case people wonder why their mix does not dry evenly or quickly and you get clumps left in fret work edges.

I too tried to take a look at it but it loads too slow and too many pauses. I figured it was my old computer and slow DSL service. But it is one person's point of view. Everyone does things differently. I am sure there is some good info in there and seeing someone do something is easier to comprehend than reading it.

Lets back the ship up here one minute. No where did I say that this is designed to do drilling. I posted the link because it was referenced before. This is an adjustable router base. It is not a plunge router base. With full size routers there is a way to adjust the depth of the bit built into the router. With these dremels there is no way to do that. So devices like the toy you guys are playing with and this better made device addresses that. Now they make a device that allows for plunge routing that someone alluded to and yes pricey But accuracy is the key when dealing with tools like that. I can show you another plunge router system that is 3 times the price of that plunge router but is so well made and super accurate. With this said, this tool can be made to do plunging with some tweaking. But the main spring is pretty stiff so does not lend itself to drilling as you all are doing. Swap out for a less stiff spring and it can work. The smaller spring on the bottom might even be able to be used in place. Never played with it that way. So if you are buying to drill with do not waste your money unless you want to do the tweaking. I will say this again and again a drill press is designed to drill holes and is the best way to drill as many holes as we do. This playing around with that plastic thing is just asking for problems. The more that wears the more the travel becomes harder. But have fun they make plenty of them so buy a couple they are cheap.

Very nicely done. I like that alot.

Yey I get it. Many ways to do all things. If you like it that is all that counts. Have fun. https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Precision_Router_Base.html