JTTHECLOCKMAN

As I said Ray you do not build anything any more. Nails are still used and I am currently redoing my home and use all size nails all the time. I built my shed hammering in nails one at a time. Frame work, roofing, jigs, Replaced cedar siding on the side of my house, one nail at a time. I n a couple weeks I have to replace a window sill and outside trim. Will nail one nail at a time.

Now that is different. Thought this idea was dead but good to see still alive and hope more patterns come out.

You evidently do not build anything.

I know what you are looking for. I have this router base system for a colt router that I use for precise routing and inlay work. They use to offer a small pen light attachment for a light source but they discontinued making it as it is stated in his write up so they went to a light ring attachment. I do not have this and it is pricy but these accessories are for a highend tool. The idea can be the same weather a small pen light used or a light ring of some sort. With those cheap bases you are better get a small single cell pen light and tape it to the base in some way. https://microfence.com/product/light-ring-kits/ Examples (think outside the box) https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mini-Pen-type-Flashlight-Portable-LED-3W-AAA-Battery-Torch-Lamp/656835749?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=14170&adid=22222222222107490132&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=75110454869959&wl4=pla-4578710025148308:aud-807615483&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=& wl10=Walmart&wl12=656835749_10000014596&wl14=single battery small LED pen light&veh=sem&msclkid=a170bac97e4f1a5e0b38e606664e7f2a https://www.amazon.com/Hatori-Flashlight-Battery-Powered-Emergency-Flashlights/dp/B01M24XPD6 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=single+led+light+battery

Won't answer. Store every way possible. I will tell you this I have ten times more small parts because I do more hobbies that scrollsawing and have a complete woodworking shop. You should see what it takes to store pen turning related stuff.

Is this you and if so what happened?? Never mind I saw your other post. Good luck with that.

I would think adding a light source would be easy. Here is an example of something to get you thinking in right direction. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Light-It-6-in-Silver-Flexible-Neck-LED-Clip-On-Battery-Operated-Multiplex-Task-Light-20010-301/204205348?cm_mmc=Shopping|B|Base|D27L|Multi|NA|PLA|InteriorLighting|71700000038718431|58700004243614128|92700035280812228&msclkid=126be7e9cb12189bab73bb247705ef3a&gclid=CLaoq6OkguICFYG4swod2XoCAg&gclsrc=ds

Good luck with the new saw and hope you make tons of saw dust.

Les take the two top rods off and turn them upside down. Spin those thumbscrews all the way down so not in the way. Put the spring between the thumb nuts and the top plate. As I mentioned in my last post on this. That main spring is fairly stiff. If you go to Home Depot or lowes and go through those bin drawers you may find a lighter spring. If you do and buy 2 of them it will balance the travel evenly and will not bind. You can also try that bottom spring because it is not as stiff. But maybe a little too short. I did not try that. As I said some tweaking and you can make work if you want to drill with it. You could take the 2 springs off that plastic gem and try those.

Kevin is spot on with that response. The one thing I would like to say to those that make their own version of Danish oil which is basically BLO, poly and mineral spirits. , is that you do not include additional driers that help the concoction dry quicker and more evenly in the wood. There are some driers in the BLO but all calculations are off compared to the original thing. Just in case people wonder why their mix does not dry evenly or quickly and you get clumps left in fret work edges.

I too tried to take a look at it but it loads too slow and too many pauses. I figured it was my old computer and slow DSL service. But it is one person's point of view. Everyone does things differently. I am sure there is some good info in there and seeing someone do something is easier to comprehend than reading it.

Lets back the ship up here one minute. No where did I say that this is designed to do drilling. I posted the link because it was referenced before. This is an adjustable router base. It is not a plunge router base. With full size routers there is a way to adjust the depth of the bit built into the router. With these dremels there is no way to do that. So devices like the toy you guys are playing with and this better made device addresses that. Now they make a device that allows for plunge routing that someone alluded to and yes pricey But accuracy is the key when dealing with tools like that. I can show you another plunge router system that is 3 times the price of that plunge router but is so well made and super accurate. With this said, this tool can be made to do plunging with some tweaking. But the main spring is pretty stiff so does not lend itself to drilling as you all are doing. Swap out for a less stiff spring and it can work. The smaller spring on the bottom might even be able to be used in place. Never played with it that way. So if you are buying to drill with do not waste your money unless you want to do the tweaking. I will say this again and again a drill press is designed to drill holes and is the best way to drill as many holes as we do. This playing around with that plastic thing is just asking for problems. The more that wears the more the travel becomes harder. But have fun they make plenty of them so buy a couple they are cheap.

Very nicely done. I like that alot.

Yey I get it. Many ways to do all things. If you like it that is all that counts. Have fun. https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Precision_Router_Base.html

That is where I bought mine from also. But I too have the one from Mike's Workshop and that works great in my full size drill press. That one does not have a zero clearance chuck on it. My 12" table top does though.

They run around $32 to $35 a gallon now adays. When I bought mine they were very cheap because Watco was dicontinuing the line and Home Depot was selling out. I bought all I could in my area of stores and have been working off that since and it has to be early 2000. I paid like $5 a gallon. The public screamed to have it back on the market so they started up production again but they did not copy exact formula. I think they needed to meet EPA standards. Just a couple years ago Lowes was selling out the quart cans of Watco so I again went around buying out the old stock. The stuff does go a long way and as I said keep in air tight container will last a long time. I have proof.

Got it. In all my 35 years of doing scroll work and all size projects I never ran into that problem but again that is just me. I understand the use and understand why they do it and more power to them and hope you all the best of success for it use. Here is wishing you many more drilled holes with your Dremel Plunge Router / Drilling jig. I do have something similar to this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wolfcraft-Portable-Multi-Angle-Drill-Guide-with-Drill-Chuck-4525404/303283380?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-100349264-_-303283380-_-N

No confusion here. Proper hole drilling tool. One hand to operate. No fear of drill moving and breaking small tiny bits. Maybe it is just me. http://woodgears.ca/reader/walters/delta_11-990.jpg

Ray, I believe we had this conversation before but my method has been the same for over 35 years since I started doing this kind of work. I have always used Watco Danish oil and love the stuff. I have 10 year old Danish oil that is still good so in my opinion it never goes bad. If stored in an air tight container. For somethings this large I use those plastic storage containers that you see in all home centers. 32qts. I use about 3 gals in the container. I dip the piece in as i stand on edge and then use one of those home depot 99 cent brushes to slash oil in places that I can not get because of the size. I soak it very well for about 10 minutes on a piece like the shelf or magazine rack. I then take it out and place it on the lid to drain excess off. After that I wipe down with a soft cloth as an initial wipe down. Now I set it aside on some plywood I set up in the shade and let drain and dry some. After some time I go back and wipe down well. By this time all oil has drained out of all the crevices and set it aside to dry for good. No need to wipe any more or touch for a couple days. After all pieces are dipped and set aside, I pour the remaining oil back in the gallon cans using a funnel and store for the next time. I do this over and over and if I use most of the oil up I open another gallon can and start over. Now if doing small clocks and only one or two I use a much smaller plastic container but the procedure is the same except then the piece fits easily in the container so no need to brush on. Now when I made the longer shelfs I used longer storage containers. The ones you store blankets and things in. I always leave the oily rags outdoors hung over some concrete blocks in the back yard. Wipe the containers out and do the same with those towels. As I said I have been doing this for over 35 years and have it down to a system that works well for me. I have made so many items of all size and mainly used Watco Danish oil as the finish. Now I have made many other items too where I top coated with lacquers. Then I use BLO only to pop grain and give the color but pretty much follow same steps. After dry I then lacquer. Now if doing large items or alot of items I break out the compressor and HVLP gun and shoot water based lacquer. But if items are small then rattle can Deft. I always finish outdoors. If I have to I can finish in the shop but try not too because of the smells. Any questions I am happy to answer. One thing I like to point out in case someone brings this up, is that shelve pictures are this past fall and i took those for my brother because he had someone who wanted a victorian shelf. Those shelves have to be over 20 years old because I had a few left from my shows. I stopped carrying them to the shows because they were taking up too much room on my space and they did not sell well any more. Notice there is no drying out in the fret work and the soft glow is still present in the finish. So yes Danish oil does hold up and does not need reapplying. Just saying.

I know what it is Kevin I have it. As I said you are using this for something it was not designed to do. Different plunge routers have different mechanisms to operate the plunge system You do not need to push with 2 hands to drill. Push in center. As I said the only time I use this cheap thing is for certain router jobs. It will break with all that movement up and down. A good drill press would have been the better way to go. good luck with it and all that use it to drill holes.

Again I know I do not grasp things well but you are an intelligent man why not just take the thing out all together. As I said you put that nut on there it will not lock at a certain height then. Simple fix and please do not tell me then you will lose it. . I know you are going to say you need the handle to push down. Why not just push down on the center object the drill motor. Then have at it. You do know you are all using that attachment for something it was not designed for. It was designed for routing.

OK now what I do not get, and unless mine is different than yours, putting that nut there does not allow the bolt to go down far enough to lock that travel. Even a washer on mine would interfere. That bolt pushes against a small stop that pushes against the shaft to keep it from sliding. Are you inserting something else to meet that stop??? Something is not adding up. Never had a problem with the knob loosening and as I said I router with mine and not drilling. A router would cause more vibration than a drill.

Very nicely done. I bet you could get orders for that. Question: Did you use spiral blades to cut this?? Just curious.

Thank you. Rick did alot of Victorian style patterns and back in the day oak was the wood of choice in homes for this style and that is what got me started with working with oak. I use to do this is natural and some people wanted it a bit darker so I would stain. I always used Watco Danish oil and that is what is on this. I made magazine racks which the light one was his pattern and the deer one is mine. But to show the 2 different colors I offered back then.

I believe you but I do not remember it. Probably never paid attention because I already had most if not all his patterns. If I chose to show all the projects I made from his patterns we would run out of web space I wish I had taken photos of all too but back then I did not even own a computer. I am going to at some time try to transfer my paper photos to a flashdrive so that I can save and share. Here is a couple shelves I made many of these over the years and this project alone he had so many different designs. Then I use to make them double shelves so that they were longer or even triple shelves some people wanted. Made from different woods too. Oh the memories.