JTTHECLOCKMAN

Say whatever you want Brad there will be no changing your mind you are right all are right and travel has nothing to do with his problem I am wrong as I always am Every answer I ever gave is wrong so do not listen to what I say I have a bucket full of holes You are right BRAD as always SIR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Love this too. Nice idea.Keep them coming.

I think we are all saying the same thing here. And yes travel has alot to do with it but it is his key words of the chuck hitting the wood leads you to believe the bit is too short. Being it is because it slips or started out as too short. Ray will answer.

Brad we all know how polite you like to be but you are not reading what I said and have no way to put that politely. So you are not differing with me but saying the exact same thing. But will ask you if you have 2-1/2" of travel and the space between the project and the tip of the bit is over 1 " before you start and all considered that the bit does not slip and the bit is 2" long how is that suppose to get to the bottom of the piece. You lost over an inch of travel before you started. I am not wrong but if he has slippage and or the bit is too short to start with than all bets are off. If you read his third post he answered Kevin when he suggested slippage but Ray went on to talk about the sarificial board and that is what led me to travel problem. I have a 12" table top Delta along with a floor model.

No his problem is in the travel. He is allowing too much distance between the project piece and the tip of the drill bit. He then spent alot of the allowable travel to just get to the project piece. If the bit is slipping I would think he would see that. May have to get him some better glasses. Others told him to check for slippage and easy enough to measure. If it is too short than shame on him and he is banned from the shop for life. Whenever I drill with a forstner bit I use the detent stops and allow the bit to ride along side the piece to the depth I want and then lock the stop down. No need to keep moving the table that is why they have the stop function. Not sure what the travel is on those small drill presses. I have a sacrificial board double sided tape on the table at all times. I also have it so it sticks out further on the side to give better support and also allows me to set up stop blocks when drilling multiple holes. Clamps and double sided tape work wonders.

I like it. keep them coming.

To the answer is in your travel. If you put the bit in the chuck and you measure its length it must be 1-1/2" or better to start. Now without the project piece there pull the handle down as far as you can with no stop detent holding you back. Should be a free fall. Now as you hold that there raise the table so that blade touches your sacrificial piece. Now let the arm back up Now measure the distance between the tip of the bit and the top of your sacrificial piece. If it measure and it should, over 1-1/2" means you have enough travel in the quill to do your operation. Now lower the table with the sacrificial piece still on it and insert your project piece between the bit and the table with as little space in between as possible. You are now good to go. I believe your travel is not allowing enough because you set the distance between the bit and project piece as too much before it enters the piece. Narrow that space up and it has to work. But if that bit is sliding up the chuck then you have other problems. But that is where your mystery is. Good luck.

For your reading pleasure https://www.whats-your-sign.com/celtic-knots.html

I like to see them in inches. Thanks.

Job well done.

That one did work. Thank you. Keep up the good work. love these.

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I like it and I make many Irish items including what we call in the pen turning world the Celtic Knot turned on a pen. Here are a couple I have done.

I think that is who I just bought the napkin holder designs from last night. I asked them if they could make into a PDF file so I can use on my home printer and they agreed. They were there this morning and later today I will download them all. I opened a few and they will work just fine. I always can enlarge them or shrink to fit my needs.

These are going to be added at my shows this year for sure. Love this idea.

Like the rocket idea and the bird is the one I was thinking of.

OK what do you say we make a list of some ideas for napkin holders such as what has been shown so far and maybe our pattern makers can do something with them. Here is what started it all. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32348-napkin-holder/ My ideas are not many. My ideas are birds like Turkey or the bird with the large fan like spread, Peafowl. The idea of doing a dress with a gal somehow is good. Upside down umbrella a flower a butterfly basically anything that can fan out

Yes I was looking at a site on ebay that sold many different colored ones but they are 10" square and was wondering if they would work.

Absolutely well done and beautiful. Well worth the effort. Thanks for showing. That bar just got a little higher for many.

Have you figured out what size napkins work best for these?? Thanks

What size napkins are best for things like this?? Thanks

What size napkins work best with these patterns?? Thanks

As Wayne said a pre conditioner will help. Also gel stains are much more controllable. Also the grit you sand the piece will determine the amount of stain gets in the grain. The higher the grit the less stain.

Thanks. I have done these in so many various woods and color combinations over the years. Have not done many in a few years now but it maybe time to find that thing again and break out some new designs.

I agree Home Depot and even Lowes carry oak dowels and also some larger oak used for stairs and railings. You can also glue a couple pieces together and do some segmenting. Stain a piece dark black and sandwich in between to lighter piece and so on. For a project as nice as that I would not skimp on using lesser quality woods to make up for cost. You will never be able to keep consistency colors throughout using light woods like poplar. Are you using a Beall wood threading tool? I have one burried somewhere in my shop that I used for cutting threads for bolt clocks that I make. They work well. Mine is used with a router. They do sell just taps and dies also.