JTTHECLOCKMAN

Glad it worked for you.

Did you try to turn the blade backwards and cut that way? May work. Or but an edge on it to work like a knife.

It is always good to post reminders and warnings like that. Sometimes we get complacent and skip steps but they can be harmful.

Look at air fresheners for cars and maybe get some ideas from them. You can do the velcro route too. Put a piece on visor and one on the back of the item.

Can do something with magnets. They sell very tiny drop-in magnets as well as magnetic strips where you can cut to size. Maybe a combination would work. Hang with a string. One thing I see a very weak point with that hinge detail. Wood does not bend like that. Open too far and I see breakage. That hinge design is meant for bending wood to shape that is not continuously opened and closed in my opinion. Design thoughts--- make the back solid and if have to a little thicker with a finger hole like you have on both top and bottom and use the magnet system as I said. Or make the back a pivot system in that it lays on top and pivots on a pin or dowel and again use a magnet to keep lined up. I mean there are many ways and designs that can be had depending how much work you want to put into them. another would be to make basically in 3 piece and have the back slide in and out of a slot.

Actually I was just reading there now is 5 different types. here is an article explaining them. One thing that is notable is that the inner material is basically encased in an outer shell which ads the protection and fade resistance. So it is not like a solid product. But it is also made up of scraps of plastic and wood. Also there are other products out there that mimic Trex but called by different names. I am not familiar with them. https://customdeckcreations.com/types-of-trex-decking/

Trex is a different product than polywood. Trex has wood fibers that are basically scraps and sawdust mixed in with a different plastic than that used in polywood. Trex is bad to breathe that dust. I have cut Trex with a saw blade and had sparks come off it. Besides there are 3 types of Trex also.

You are correct Bill. Amish have the market cornered as well as making of sheds. That was something they were known for before all this furniture stuff. They cornered the market on pressure treated furniture as well as sheds for a long time too.

Who invented Polywood. It may have been invented by someone other than the Amish from doing a few searches. But here is a link to some info. In it is a cool video of one plant that makes polywood furniture. It is very interesting. https://www.forbes.com/sites/jimvinoski/2022/03/30/how-polywood-turns-millions-of-pounds-of-plastic-waste-into-beautiful-outdoor-furniture/ My brother has his entire backyard furniture made of this stuff and he got all his from the Amish in Pennsy. He has been dealing with a company who makes them up there so he got info from them but they may not be the inventors of the process. The look is amazing and as I said very heavy but solid. Taking simple waste and make things like that is cool. As far as scrolling, if it is true polywood I doubt it is a good material to use because it probably will melt back together being a plastic. But being a high density plastic who knows. Give it a try and report your findings.

You have to be careful of the terminology. If you are talking true polywood. This is a plastic and done by the Amish. Their invention and probably the only place to get it. Now there is a product called Dymondwood but hard to find any more. The factory where that was made burned down and no one picked up the product that I know of. It is thin layers of real wood encased in a resin and put under high pressure to cure. Then there is spectraply which is wood layers and encased in adhesive under high pressure as well. Then there is a product called colorply which also is layers of wood oriented in various directions to show unique patterns. It too is encased in a wood adhesive and then stabilized in a resin. All look the same but are very different. Examples of spectraply. Easy to get in blocks or sheets. (baskets) Dymondwood (watches green and black bands) Any of these types are tough on scrollsaw blades because of both the glues used and the resins used.

I would say bass wood is right there with sugar pine when it comes to hardness. When scrolling soft woods like that you really have to go slow because there is really no resistance from the wood and it could cut too fast. Especially 1/16" thick. Good luck.

Just a note back to you, his very first post so I am not sure how many people would have known that. Good time to welcome him and say hello.

Welcome aboard Steve to our little world of scrollers. Your work and patterns have been received with great joy and with complete satisfaction. To do what you do for us scrollers is unmatched. I myself have done quite a few of your patterns with some adding my own touches. Your name comes up alot here as well as other scrolling sites especially when people are looking for specific themed patterns. I am sure you probably noticed that scrolling is not quite as popular as it once was. Over the years we lost some great pattern designers. Thankfully there are still some great designers such as yourself that still feed the hunger we scrollers have. Many innovations as well as many new saws have hit the market over the years. Along with that new tools and Guess AI is now added to that list. Seems AI will be involved in so many facets of our lives now and in the future. With that said keep doing what you are doing and using whatever tools necessary. You give a great service to the scrolling world and to us artisans that sometimes make a few $$$ from our work. Now being a little selfish on my part may I put in a request for some patterns in the future. At one time years ago I wrote to you asking to see more patterns dealing with the trades (being I grew up in them as an electrician for 43 years). I believe there is a great push and rightly so these days to bring back the Vocational training in the various trades and even the newer ones such as computer Techs. But the trades such as Electrician, Plumbers, Carpenters, Iron Workers, Steel workers, Bricklayers, Laborers all still are prevalent in todays society. Over the years I have made many of these type scrollsawn projects to attract potential buyers at my shows. I was fortunate to be able to use some of the talented pattern makers we have here for which I am thankful for. I have used a few of your patterns from this genre too. I guess what I am saying it is always great to see new patterns in this arena. But above all thank you for what you do and hope you continue for as long as you want.

Take some emery cloth and form it so you can fit in brush hole and spin the motor by hand. You should see nice copper color when done. Use a fine grit. Do not use sandpaper. Just a quick pass or two is all that is needed. They do make commutator stones for cleaning and setting brushes too. May have to cut to fit the hole. Also a quick pass or 2 on the brush to take the glaze off it. When installing brushes make sure you mark the brush the exact way you took it out and put back the same way. Also make sure the spring has enough tension to keep brush riding on commutator.

2 or 3 times I have read how aggressive Dewalt saws cut. This stem way back to when they were first made and I have show how that can be corrected to a more straighter up and down motion. There is also videos out there showing how to correct this. I know Rick mentions this on his site years ago. But it all comes down to raising the back of the table some to even out that motion and yes it works.

That is a huge difference in space required so that is something to think about. The difference in type of saws is huge also. As mentioned the Pegas is closest to what you worked with. Cost is a factor and then being able to get repaired and parts. Hegner is a tank and they are an industrial type saw.

So it is ornaments you want to display. Are they all different? How many are we talking about? I ask these questions not to be a smart ass but to get an idea what you are after. You evidently came up with something that sounds like it will work. There are a ton of ways to hang ornaments but many times the type of ornament dictates the hanging methods. Are they flat, are they 3D, are they all the same size, are there multiples of each, are these sold in boxes ( if so you may want to display with the box) and so on. Google is your friend. Pintrest is a good place to start looking for examples. Here is a link to one page. Good luck. One other thing that needs to be taken in consideration is are these available to customers to touch or are you only one able to access. Again makes a difference in type hanger. Your question is not that easily answered without questions. https://fr.pinterest.com/pin/10273905394303243/

Alot depends on the type projects you are talking about and if they have wall hooks and what type. What type wall are you talking about? Is this something you built to do shows with. is it peg board or plywood or wire. Give us an idea what you want. If you are talking ornaments then that is a whole different setup. So need more info to be of help. If you are talking portraits or things like that you still can use shelving and do rows. Show us what you do now and what you want to hang. Many ways to display projects. How much room and wall space are you talking about.

What makes you suspect there is a problem with the saw? Those testers are unreliable. If you touch both ends of the tester it lights up also correct? Did you try the tester on other tools? If you are feeling a tingle when using the saw, I highly suggest you stop using it and find out why. It is going to take some testing but with a better tester (meter style) in my opinion. You get lots of false positives with those type testers. I am sorry I can not help you any more.

I would suggest you start at the outlet you are plugged into. The tester linked above is a good starting point. You can have a floating ground. The ground wire at the machine can be well secured and all looks good but you have either a loose ground wire at the outlet or if spliced a bad splice in the box. Or the chord has a bad ground. The tester will test the outlet for you. Money well spent. If that is good you need to see if the ground wire from the male plug end has continuity to the ground wire in the machine. This is done with another type tester that can measure continuity. You would also need to move the chord around some to see if the wire is broken somewhere along the entire wire. Many times a chord gets pulled out of a outlet by the chord alone and this puts stress at the male plug end. Simple continuity tester from a good company. Sorry I could not follow your terminology so excuse if you mentioned you did this already. Disconnect the foot switch and run the saw without it and do that test. If still the same then follow what I mentioned above. If goes away then problem is within that foot switch. Lets check this stuff out first but you could also be looking at static electricity and those type tester can see this. But again should lead to a ground problem. https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Sperry-Continuity-Tester-CT6101/300348421?mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-2024&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-2024-21871116195-178489370548-&gclid=fec940dca26c17d35a1428f5f64a6f0c&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=fec940dca26c17d35a1428f5f64a6f0c I blew up your photo and a little confused with your set up. Wish I could see the back of that saw where the wires are going. What type of foot switch is that? That is not a sewing machine foot pedal is it? Is it a step to turn on dead man switch where you take foot off and saw stops or do you have to step on it to turn on and step on it again to turn off? The wire out of that foot pedal looks crushed. Could you explain this sentence a little more. I am not understanding what you mean. it gives electricity in 2 modes when the tray is running

Tried them. Do not like them. I found having a magnifying light works better because it is always at the same magnification when cutting. With head band that changes with head movement. I get disoriented.

Plywood such as BB will not warp as much but will warp. Just as all wood will. Wood is alive and will move. Now what things depend on is what type project you are talking about. Is it a scrolled photo that has a frame that supports the edges so then less warpage. Is it a project that has alot of fret work then less warpage. Is it a project that has a backer board than less warpage. So no definitive answer is possible except that wood moves and will warp. Being that thin more chances of it happening.

Many different type light strips. Mostly when you cut them there is a proper place to cut and is noted. Then you can buy connectors to connect the strips and extend or you could solder the connections but will still need a power source. But for about $15 you can build again. But if the strip was less than that it maybe more beneficial to just buy new. That is why you try to buy only what you need unless you plan on mass producing and buying parts can pay off. The LED light system has been a game changer for cars as well as homes.

Yes but we are both passionate with what we do and what we did in the past and there is nothing wrong with that. I respect what he does and his approach. I have told my story in different threads here many times so no need to go through that. I know there are others that it seems we are always on opposite sides of things but again we all can not be clones. What a boring world it would be.

You are right. Many times it comes down to right place right time. Also you are right about selling quickly because they need to unload either a passing relative stuff or they are moving and can not take. Also people who know saws more tend to spend a little more. The one thing RBI has going against them is the space they take up too. People like those saws they can put on a bench and be done with it. Hopefully he sells and gets his price.