JTTHECLOCKMAN

I have used it for my projects that I have lacquered. I also use it to wax my tablesaw top.

How in the world do they police that policy. That is for people who get scared about the label on the mattress too. (DO NOT REMOVE) I paid for the pattern and will use as I see fit.

As I said also it is a feel good thing for you. There is nothing wrong with it and everyone is different. I have never done it and never will. I am representing my work I cut the piece out not the pattern designer. He represented his work when he made the pattern but did not list me as a user or buyer. That customer will have no idea and could care less who made the pattern. They are buying your work. This as I said is one person's view. Good luck to all who sell their work and continue to support the pattern designers wherever they come from.

I would be careful about this statement. Not all shellac is the same. Some reading info.http://www.vrg.org/blog/2010/11/30/q-a-on-shellac/

I too have never run into a pattern that I bought that the final piece can not be sold. That does not make sense. You are not reselling the pattern you are selling your work. You have no control of people copying pictures and creating a pattern. Now some pattern makers may put a limit on sellable items but come on be realistic please. This concept of idea copyright thing is and always be one of those topics that can be argued from both sides. You see alot of this in the pen making hobby. People design a pattern and then hundreds of people put out their version. Barry Gross of scrollsaw fame and now pen turning fame was one who put some sort of pattern on his what he called watch part design and beer cap design blanks and threatened to sue others that made them. They are now made by hundreds of people all over the world. No lawyer could defend his claim. Now the only way he had a claim is if the person used the same parts and did exactly the way he did his which is impossible to begin with so no basis for claim but he still goes arou nd telling everyone he was the first which was proven to be not true. No one gives him credit when they make a watch part pen.

Never. My Dad taught that to me when we were building our dormers on our house many years ago. I had to screw the screws in for all the hinges on the doors. No battery operated tools back then. By hand. Use to walk around with a bar of ivory soap in my tool pouch. Sold the house 2 years ago after my Mom passed away and every door looked like it was brand new as the day we put them up over 50 years ago

Ray I will post my thoughts and are worth what you paid for them When making cutting boards because they will get cuts and scrapes you never want to use film finishes such a poly, lacquer, danish oil, shellac and others. I like to use Butchers Block oil which is mineral oil and vitamin E and get it here. http://www.rockler.com/butcher-block-oil be careful if using walnut oils or even scented mineral oils. Alergic reactions. Now I make many baskets that can be used for center bowl pieces on a table and can be used to hold rolls, fruit, cakes and things of this nature. I always use Danish oil on most of my projects and these are no exception. Now film finishes will be non toxic after and only after when they are fully cured. Not just dry but cured and each product will take time with different woods playing a roll as well as temperatures when finishing. When I sell these baskets i always warn my customers about chips or splinters or cutting into the wood and would prefer they use a dolly in the basket before putting product in them. I always have examples set up with this. Fake rolls, candies, flowers wooden fruit which a sell. If things like that are used then no cares are needed. I used to make a fruit holder that had a banana rack built into it and I always coated those with Behlens Salad Bowl finish.http://www.rockler.com/salad-bowl-finish

I will say again , What does the customer care where you got the pattern from??? Sometimes too much info on a web site is not good. Has no bearing for a buyer. If another scroller wants your pattern then let them contact you or work out the deal. If doing for your own records why not just list on your master list. When a designer sells their pattern and you paid money for it they do not make a list of buyers on their site. If a pattern maker goes to your site they can recognize their own work I hope and if you altered it maybe not. For files I always use numbers. I keep a master list of items with the # and a description of what it is and what woods used. Also the current price and if I made changes in price I make note. This is for me to see only. I know everyone does things differently but I just do not see the need to always list a designer. I have keep checking this point because I am not talking about sites like this where we have great pattern makers and if asked here then you reference them. It is just a quizzical question and I mean no disrespect to what others do. I am guessing this is more or less a feel good thing. I can maybe understand it more if posting in the bragging section and wanting to give credit. Oh well let me have it. I am the bad guy.

I love how everyone says they give credit to the designer. WHO are you telling?? You do not say here when photos are posted in bragging section. Unless it is someone asking for the pattern and that like I said basically happens on sites like this. But other than that do you write it on the project, have cards made up and if so who is going to know who these people are. So when you give credit who are you telling?? Just curious.

First off I use alot of Pintrust photos to come up with some of my ideas. They are usually one of a kind thing. I never get asked who pattern it is so I never say. Places like this is where you get asked mostly where can I find that pattern and then you mention how you came about it. I would never steal someones pattern here or other scrolling places unless asked and allowed. I show pieces here and unless asked I do not say.

I run mine all the time around that speed. Only slow down for plastics and metals. Depends on the blade. If you are not using a skip tooth blade for 3/4 then you are using the wrong blade.

Kevin I use Danish oil on 99% of all projects I make. I always do the staining outdoors and like you I try to get 95% of my work done by the fall so that when I stain outdoors I can leave to dry for a good 10 to 12 hours. I also do most my staining as a huge group. Unlike you I do not sell during the entire year so I can stock pile easier. I bring in house and down to shop and stage either on the line as mentioned or on a drying plywood rack. The worse part of the smell is gone in 24 hours and I have used this for so many years I have gotten use to and actually like the smell . The smell does not permeate over the house at all which has not affected anyone else so that is a good thing. Love my Danish oil.

That is because it was a gallery that was on the old system and when Travis upgraded he was not able to bring those galleries over with it. I never had the chance to start a new one here. Sorry about that.

This is a very true statement. You can get away with the overuse of a blade in most projects but puzzles the cuts need to be true.

This is what I do and hang from a makeshift line in basement. I do this alot with things like wall plaques and wall clocks too. Nice group and good head start for the season. Never too early.

I do not do puzzles but my suggestion would be to stand the pieces on edge after wiped down. No flipping needed and take up less room and can stand on some scrap plywood designed for this. Just keep puzzle grouped together.

See other discussion about mdf here. Not a good choice for scrolling material. Solid woods is a better choice and poplar is a fine choice. learn as you go.

All wood products are health hazards so take nothing for granted. Solid woods can cause skin rashes if allergic as well as dust problems. MDF and particle boards are more highly dangerous because of the content of finely ground dust mixed with lots of glue that contains formaldehyde. Pressure treated lumber is even worse because of the toxins added to prevent rot. You have a new player that is used in homes today that is just as bad and that is lvl lumber and people use that to scroll also and is bad for you. Yes hardwood plywoods as well as Baltic Birch plywood is a hazard because of the glues used along with wood dust. Why MDF gets all the press is because of all things I mentioned that product produces the finest health hazardous dust and being so fine it stays in the air the longest, gets onto everything when working in a closed shop and hard to control even with the best dust collecting systems. It is used in the sign industry because of being stable and flat but great care is taken when used in shops. I personally would never use it to scroll with. I have used it to make sleds for my tablesaw as jigs because of flatness but take great care with dust control and try to cut outdoors. I do use BB and other hardwood plywoods but the dust is more manageable. The moral of this is always work safe and use dust collection at the source and if most of all a dust mask rated for the materials you are working with. Many other materials such as natural hardwoods to work with safer. my opinion.

Lots of cuts in that one for sure. Looks fantastic. You are right about challenging yourself and that is how we learn. Nice work and thanks for showing.

That did come out well. Nice combination of woods. natural colors is always good to see. Thanks for showing.

Brad once again this is what happens things get read and interpreted in each person's mind. I was making comment to a few posts ago and that is why i am tooting my own horn. My point was there are no experts here but very good scrollers and I happen to be one too. If you do not want to read my posts then don't what do I care. I think everyone here tries to help each other. This thread started out asking about the catagories written under the sign-on names and has evolved into what an expert is. That is all this topic was about.

I have done that one also. Used various woods. Many types of baskets weather scrolled or not.

There is nothing wrong in saying and accepting accolades for being good at something. Celebrate it and make it part of your business line. I will not back off my account of being good because I paid my dues and it took me some time to get good. I have not seen anyone call themselves an expert here. I do believe this thread has gone the way of a different direction than what was intended. There is in my eyes only one expert and that is The Good Lord Almighty.

Can you be more specific on what type of basket?? Open cell basket, closed cell basket, folding basket, solid basket???