JTTHECLOCKMAN

The very first thing I do with those cans is cut that plastic ring off. When a can of Danish oil gets gummed up I usually have other cans of mineral spirits or acetone that I empty and just save the caps. Those cans at HD do come with lids and can get in quart or gallon. I will usually put left over room paints in them and label. When I pour danish oil back in can I use a funnel designated for this. I am constantly pouring in and out of those cans. I love my Watco Danish oil. When Home Depot stopped carrying it and Watco stopped making it I was a maniac going from Homer to Homer buying up all I could and I still have some left which I am guessing maybe 25 years ago. The new stuff when they got so many people screaming for it and brought it back on line they changed the formula to meet certain guide lines and it is not quite the same but still good stuff.

Home Depot sells metal quart cans and I use those if I need to break something down or just need a smaller container.

That came out real nice and I am sure he will treasure it. I plan on making a few of this type and add them into my inventory this year. Thanks for showing and also Thank your Son for his service too.

I would think long and hard about the suggestion of spraying the wood. I mean sincerely. Those that do it may have good luck but what you are doing is getting glue in the grain of the wood and yes you can wipe with MS but now you are transferring that glue to the edges of the fret cutouts and that can cause problems. I would try heat gun or as I said a lighter tack tape. Not a fan of spraying the wood. Sealing the wood ahead of time can help too. But good luck and hope you figure it out.

Sanding sealer should help some. What is happening is the use of plywood and the small pieces left after cutting the frets is weak. Would not get that with solid woods. You can also try switching to purple painter tape or for even less tackiness the green but be warned the tack is far less than blue and may start to peel when cutting. I know nothing about shelf paper but it too has adhesive that can do what is happening to you.

Never would I use wood that nice for a cutting board. Too many other projects that would look nice on. Not a fan of using oily woods for cutting boards either. Contaminate foods and no way to seal them. That is why Maple is used alot. This is just me and my opinion. Nice work on the cutting though. Make a nice clock.

Many on craigs list all the time but I have seen Dewalts for $450 with light and stand many times before also. Of course never when you are looking for them.

It could be possible that shelf paper has something different in it and may change brand to brand. But also I notice if I do not finish a project I will always place a weight on top of some sort so that there is no warping till I get a finish on it and I have no idea sometimes when I will get back to the project. This can have a negative effect on the tape also making it harder to get off. I found a few years ago at a garage sale there was a painter selling tons of his left over stuff because he retired and was moving. I bought more blue tape than I can ever use in a lifetime so that is what I will be using forever. Bought a bunch of good quality brushes and scrapers and tons of razor blades and tarps and anything else associated with painters. He wanted to sell and I was willing to buy.

This is an issue and I believe I had mentioned this in another thread about tapes but the longer you leave tape on a project the tougher it can become to get off. I have seen it before with blue painters tape and others.

I do the same as this and use flat blades because that is all I need. If I need the veining to be wider I just use the blade as a plane and widen it. Usually veining is not straight lines but they can be so just need to take your time.

Can use some PVC pipe too. Buy some end caps. Use a painting code system or just put labels on them.

Very nicely done. I have one of Wilkens patterns and it is a mailbox clock pattern. I have not made it but it is on the list. http://www.wilckenswoodworking.net/images/patterns/clocks_mini/0084_big.jpg

I just can not see that being walnut and if so the closest that I know is Wattle black and not easy wood to get. There are about 5 or 6 varieties of walnut but black walnut is the American choice. Just need to clarify some points in this post. Kiln dried wood does not darken at all. Just dries wood faster that air dried. What people and manufacturers will do is take walnut wood that has alot of sap wood in the board and because walnut is expensive they will "STEAM" it to change color of the sap wood and darken it some. But what it does is wash out the heartwood and make the entire board look close to the same. If you let walnut air dry over time the heartwood becomes a very deep and rich color and the sap wood will darken also. Air dried lumber will be darker than doctored lumber. But people are in a rush so the steam and then kiln dry. I prefer air dried walnut any day. Yes walnut can have streaks of color running through it and you see reds alot. As far as that project all I see is the nose can surely be walnut but the ears and rest are a different wood if there was no staining involved.

Is it the lighter wood?? did you put any finish on it to change color. Never will be able to tell just from grain.

I will go with oak (white or red) or ash because of the grain. There are many varieties of oak too so always tough to nail down to one photo. It definitely is not walnut.

You are absolutely correct. The same can be said for masking tape or blue painters tape. It is the top layer that is coated so that the tape does not permanently stick to itself and unrolls easily.

Now the second part of this thread is one I can relate to. I have a piece right now and is probably 10 years old that took plenty of time to cut and I used red oak plywood because the piece is large. I combined some figured maple for some of the overlays. I stained the background a darker stain thinking the maple would pop. Then I cut stained glass for the boarders. Made a rosewood frame. Bought stained glass for the background to show through the frets. Put it together and it just did not look right. Can not put my finger on it so I took them apart and now all the pieces sit there somewhere in the shop collecting dust. Just one of those pieces but there is a ton of time in this and I actually made two of them. My most disappointing piece. This was a Dirk Boelman pattern. I have many of his patterns that I was to do and ones I have done. Here was the pattern I talked about. http://theartfactory.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/121.jpg

Old school Len. That is the way it was taught. Right now there is tension on my bandsaw blade. I used it about 3 days ago and will be tomorrow or the next day. Will be milling some lumber for projects. As I said I use my saws quite a bit during a week. We can get into many different practices in a shop. Do people leave the blade up on the tablesaw when done cutting for awhile?. Do you take the router bit out of router after a project or leave it in till next project and you need to change?? Do you leave the router bit exposed in the table when done or do you lower the router?? Do you change sandpaper after a project knowing the next project will need new paper or do you wait until you use the sander again?? I have a million of them Would need alot of signs around the shop.

Maybe a little OCD They sell glue for a reason, to put things together and todays glues are far supior to years ago

Looks like it came out real well. Nice to be able to work on full size projects like that also. Many of the skills can be transferred to scrolling too. Thanks for showing.

Good choices on the above methods and I will throw another in the mix. I like to use epoxy and in this case 5 minute epoxy is all that is needed. My go to epoxy is the System III epoxy line.

It is got to be hot in there all year round and materials and tools do not like heat as well as the operator. Not sure of your living arrangements but a shed of some sort would sound like a better option.

Not at all I have done it before. The glue joint is stronger than the rest of the project. If you do it neatly who is going to know except you.

It is more about causing flat spots on the rubber wheels or urethane wheels if that is what you use. Then you get a thump. This is if you are leaving the bandsaw for long periods of time. I use mine quite often so I do not untension at all. I always do to the scroll saw after a cutting sesion. Just habit and so easy to see when I go to use again. Do not scroll as much as I use to.

Here is my take and it worth what you want to put to it. Low speed is for cutting nonferrous metals such as sheets of aluminum or rods and things of that nature. High speed is for cutting wood. What matters is that your blade tracks well and the correct blade is used for the job and the feed rate of the wood presented to the blade is constant and slow enough for the blade to do the cutting. Bandsaw boxes are sawn on all type saws and most are single speed saws. Soft and hard woods have nothing to do with blade speed. Saw blade type is the key there. Plywood will cut differently than hardwoods so even though you are practicing with it you will not get the true feel when you switch to hard or soft woods. Plywood has so much grain differential within it I do not believe it is a good practice wood. But who am I. Give it a whirl and one thing is you will get to practice the cut directions. Look forward to seeing what you cut out.