kmmcrafts

My local lumber yard is $2.10 board ft.. I bought 118bdft in Dec. my total was $247 That said, I only get that price because of two reasons.. First being if you buy over 100bdft they discount the price.. and the other reason is if you spend a certain amount with them every year they put you in different price brackets for the year.. I spent $8000 with them so my price bracket puts me in at real low price points. Normal 1/8 BB ply runs near $16 per 5 x 5 sheet.. my price is $11..

I would call Bushton with the serial number and ask about motor and approximate year of the saw. Hawk saws are great saws.. parts can be a wait to get if you ever come to a point of needing parts as they are a very small family run business that are also farmers.. if you need a part during harvest time you might be waiting a month or two for them to be done with the farming things to get your part made. One thing about Hawk saws is.. you rarely need to order parts.. any hardware and bearings are available at a hardware store typically right on the shelf.. The two main wear points I know of are the wedge shape piece at the back of the saw.. It should be a fairly sharp point on the end where it contacts the upper arm.. Though they are cheap to replace.. this is a sign of how much the saw has been run if it is worn and has a rounded edge. The other wear point seems to be the tension cam.. When you put tension on the blade you flip that lever over and it should go down and lock right against the upper arm.. If worn it may pop back up some thus not really locking the tension.. I've looked at saws I run across on craigslist and they will have a rubber band or something over that lever to hold it from popping up and releasing the blade tension.. There is really not a lot to go wrong with these old saws. If that wedge piece at the back of the saw is rounded over.. you can reshape it by laying a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and sharpening that point buy sanding it flat from both sides evenly. Most wear parts for these could be made instead of buying them from Hawk.. provided you have a drill press and a grinder, LOL As for the WEN.. I don't know much at all about them.. or if parts are easy to get or not.. I assume they are made in China but I don't know for sure.. Not a very high end saw like a Hawk..

Would certainly be entertaining to listen to you all talk.. I'll have to ask my son about the whole zoom thing. He does it for school.. he doesn't have cameras set up on his computer so nobody sees him they only hear him.. more like a voice chat type for him anyway.. He has rigged his phone up to video himself as a camera and send the signal through wifi to his computer and then out to the zoom class.. He's good with computer stuff like that..

I didn't realize to be considered a production cutter you had to sit at the saw 24 - 7 365 days.. To be quite honest.. I'm nearly 900 miles from my shop on a vacation sitting on the beach in Folly SC and hoping the second half of my vacation isn't rain like this first half is, My website is in Vacation mode until I get back home in March. I will say the dang iPad thing is a pain in the behind to get used to instead of my computer. tiny keyboard thing on the screen.. I knew I should have brought my laptop, LOL. Must have taken me 2 hours for that last reply but who cares I get board sitting around not actually working.. I'm one that can't sit doing nothing.. I'm good to set at a computer but I cannot get into TV shows.. mainly because anything on TV is garbage anyway.. has to be action packed or I loose interest.. I think I could get used to the Hegner fairly quick.. I would think since the design is quite similar to the Hawk as they are very fussy about blade tension and many of the same things and I assume they are quite similar in nature. I'm not a top feeder either so that's not an issue.. and yes anyone can modify a saw to their own liking.. or build their own for that matter.. The dislikes or rather concerns about the short comings for the Hegner are small petty things and I get that.. also not everyone cares about table size or this or that.. I only brought those things up as they was concerns of "mine" after all I do set at the saw quite a lot.. I was comfortable with Hawk as I has been using one for 2-3 years before purchasing that new saw.. and I strongly looked at Hegner.. but wasn't about to spend nearly $2000 on a saw not really knowing if it'd work well with me.. as in comfort.. my last reply I mentioned you have to be comfortable setting at a saw if you're doing this as a business.. I'm a cheap @ss .. I only paid $100 for my first Hawk.. and not about to pay $2000 for something I have no idea if I'd like it.. Robust saw for sure and probably well worth every penny.. but would I really be happy sitting at it all day every day.. I suppose for $2000 I'd have to make myself like it.. LOL This is why I say I'm watching for a deal on one.. I want to try one.. never know.. after trying one I might sell all the Hawks and buy a new Hegner..

A lot of factors play into what a persons opinion is about a production cutting saw.. when I see these post topics I'm assuming they're looking for a saw that they don't have to replace every year.. In my mind " any " saw can be a production saw.. you can buy HF saw and just replace it every 3 months or buy a DW and replace it every 12 -15 months.. you can buy a Henger or Hawk and replace it every 10 - 20 years.. You need to buy what works for you also. Some people are not mechanical and don't want to fool with repairs.. others don't mined doing repairs and maintenance. As has been stated what is more important about running business is pricing and factoring in making enough profit to cover replacement saws and having the funds to do so at any given time.. What kills most crafters business is they get the money in their hands and pay themselves buy spending "all" the income.. and live a paycheck to paycheck life.. then when murphy stops by and takes a saw out of commission and no money to replace / repair they loose customers buy not getting orders out in a timely manor. If you are looking for that long lasting saw that you don't need to fool with.. most likely a Hawk or Henger.. You do pay up front.. but as has been mentioned.. You also need to run a saw you are in tune with.. one that is comfortable to run.. after all if a saw's cutting style differs from one type to the next.. If you're used to a DW and are comfortable sitting at it for 6 hours a day then I don't suggest going to a saw that you have no idea of it's comfort level or the cutting style of the saw.. If a Hegner is less aggressive and is 10% slower cutting that means you're going to be sitting at that saw for 10% more time for said work load.. You need to be comfortable with the saw you're using if that is what you will be running the most in your small business. I like the way my Excalibur cuts.. but I can't sit at that saw more than about an hour or I get cramps in my neck.. the stand sucks as there is no place to put your legs / feet as the stand design is wide and doesn't allow you to sit close and sort of straddle the stand.. The Hawk does cut somewhat slower and a less aggressive feel while cutting.. however I've found that it isn't really any slower to complete a project because of it being less aggressive I can go right into a sharp turn and turn it and continue on my cut out.. on a aggressive saw I might have to stop a sec. and back up slightly and then make my turn to continue on.. I get more done in one day on the Hawk than the Excalibur because I have to constantly move when setting at the EX to get comfortable.. always stopping to change position.. Yes one can build there own stand and design it to be comfortable to sit at.. doing so does take time away from production to fiddle with getting set up to be comfortable.. So with all that is been said.. from one production cutter to another.. My suggestion is have a main saw that you're comfortable with.. If you want to try a quality saw get a used one to see if the saw is comfortable for you to set at and get comfortable with it "IF" you can.. run it as a back up saw.. if you can't get used to it and would like a different saw keep trying different saws to see what works well and is in tune with you the user.. BTW.. yes some of the older saws are limited on features.. such as quick clamps and thing like that.. However the stands and the basic saws are still pretty much the same saw.. ( speaking on Hawk and Hegners designs ) If you like a used Hawk or Hegner then you can always have an idea if the new one would be comfortable for you to set at. Guess what I'm saying is.. you could buy a $2000 saw and hate it because it's not comfortable to cut at for long periods of time.. a cheap HF saw might be the saw that does work for you.. Just plan on having to factor in a replacement every X amount of time.. also have a back-up plan for broken saws.. Even high end saws break..at some point. I have 5 saws in my shop.. 3 Hawks a EX-21, and a very old Delta.. Probably over kill.. but I shouldn't have the need to rush to town to buy a saw to finish a project / order because of a broken saw.. I have full intentions to buy a used Hegner at some point to try and see if I would like one.. I went with a new Hawk a few years back because I had two used ones with less features that I liked.. I knew I would be happy with a new one.. I looked at new Hegners.. a few things I think I wouldn't like.. ( small table, arm doesn't go up very high, the front tension lever looks like it sticks up 2-3 inch and I could see me breaking Magnifier lights with that handle. The blade holders look like they could be cumbersome ).. I'd be ticked off to spend nearly $2000 and hate it.. When I find a deal on a used saw.. I'll learn if I like it and then possibly buy a new one if needed / wanted..

I do not know of any "kit" for the parts.. and it's been years since I done the DW saw and I've rebuilt a EX and a few others since then so I wouldn't want to mis-guide you on how many of each size bearing and sleeve you'll need to do a "complete" rebuild.. But for starters.. I'll say for the front portion of the saw you'll need these parts here.. and I know some of these are the same bearing and sleeve as in the back part of the saw.. but without looking at the diagram I don't know how many bearings and sleeves are in there. Here is the part numbers for the bearings in the front of the saw. You will also want to replace the sleeve (bearing insert ).. I bought the sleeves here. In the diagram you might be able to look at the part numbers to the sleeves and figure out how many bearings and sleeves you'd need for the back part of the saw. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dw788-type-scroll-saw-parts-c-1009_2631_207564.html Also if I was you.. instead of buying "all" of the bearings and sleeves.. You might consider just taking it apart and inspecting the bearings and sleeves before buying a lot of parts you may not really have needed. Since in most cases.. it's only one or two bearings / sleeves that are actually worn. Many times you can just clean up the old bearings and sleeves and re-grease with a quality grease. Please do note that if a sleeve is worn bad so is the bearing.. replace them in pairs. also try to keep the bearing sleeves with the same bearing when taking it apart.. 10) HK0609 bearings... mine cost $4.16ea.2) HK0810 bearings... again cost $4.16ea.

I'm thinking if you rebuilt the DW with quality bearings and new sleeves.. good quality synthetic grease you should be able to get your 3-5 year time from it.. I would try that first before jumping in on a new saw.. If you are used to cutting on a DW.. they are a bit more aggressive cutting saws than the other saws out there.. You can tune a Pegas and other types of saws to cut more aggressively which when tuned they cut pretty good and fast.. However the top speed SPM ( strokes per minute ) is only 1500 on the Pegas and like saws.. and the DW is 1750. As for quality saws.. built to last and production cut.. I'd agree with Paul and say a Hawk or Hegner with out last any of these other saws by a long shot.. however they are a bit slower at cutting as they do have a more straight up down blade movement.. Hawk has a adjustable blade angle which does help but you get it too far out there and it won't cut nice square corners as Charley mentioned about C arm saws. I personally went with a Hawk when I upgraded as I do just as you are.. "production cut" and I wanted the blade angle adjustment option because speed does somewhat matter for production cutting.. and I don't think Hegner offers that option.. But as others have stated.. repair parts from Hawk can take a long time to get if they don't have the parts on hand.. They are a very small family run business and they also Farm and run a couple other small business's so the parts could be a few months out before you get them.. If you go with Hawk.. a good idea to buy ahead of time some common wear parts. Most business's that production cut shouldn't rely on just running one saw anyway in my opinion.. I have 3 Hawks and a Excalibur. I have the Ex tuned to be a fast cutting machine for those " in a hurry to get done orders " Hawks are tuned to run precision.. funny thing is.. there is very little difference in the time it takes to cut the same projects from one machine to the other.. The DW has a noticeable difference in cutting time.. but it comes with the wearing out fast poor quality machine factor that only you can weigh your options.. Iggy sticks with his DW's and he has had a Hawk and a Pegas.. didn't like either saw very well so he just replaces a DW every year or so.. IF I was that stuck on DW I'd take the time to rebuild one or even pay someone to do it if I wasn't able to myself.. provided they would use quality parts and grease.. I got 4-5 years on my DW after rebuilding it once... I sold the saw because I got the EX.. but wish I had kept it instead.. But honestly, once getting used to the cutting style of the Hawk.. It's really my go to saw.. Been running it pretty hard for 3 years now.. not needed any parts yet.. and still running very smooth and quiet.. To do over again.. I'd still buy the Hawk.. or Hegner.. Even if you buy a new saw every year.. you still have time setting up a new saw.. and the hassle of having to take time to shop for another every year etc..

Maybe I push the drill too fast.. but for some reason I can't keep from burning the hole through.. which can ruin the project if you are doing veining cuts.. I use a lot of Cherry wood and it burns easily.. My plunge base "used to be" a lot less sloppy.. over time those upright guides etc will wear.. as it is just plastic. Something to prolong that is using PB blaster dry lube with Teflon spray.. I use the PB Blaster garage door dry lube. https://www.zoro.com/blaster-garage-door-lubricant-aerosol-11-oz-16-gdl/i/G3627915/?gclid=e34fa889ea0114725126c8a37934ba9d&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=e34fa889ea0114725126c8a37934ba9d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA_US_Bing_SSC&utm_term=4586131721644320&utm_content=All Products I use this stuff on a lot of things.. amazing stuff.. Lawn mower wheels and cables etc.. makes the mower roll real easy and smooth. door hinges in my house / garage / car etc.. LOL. I also use Johnson paste wax on the bottom of the router base.. glides right across the wood when drilling holes.. Anyway, everyone will have a different opinion and use for these dremels for drilling holes.. your system running on the one post looks to be a more stable unit than the plunge router that the base rides on two post and they can't be too tight on those post or it'd be hard to move the plunge part of it.. so brand new there is a little side to side tilt that "can" happen.. after plunging it a million times and it gets some wear it gets much more sloppy.. That stew mac site used to have a metal plunge base.. now it looks like they've made it from plastic?

I've seen you post this a few other times but I guess I never really read where you said you have 11" of space and can drill up to around 22" wide.. This is really a great idea.. I have the dremel plunge router base etc like the others do.. My issue with that set up is.. the plunge base is a little sloppy when new but after drilling maybe one or two million holes that plastic base is getting more slop.. Sloppy enough I can drill a hole fairly easy at 5 degrees off.. and many times if not careful I could probably drill straighter holes with my hand drill, LOL.. The other issue is the power of the dremel.. unless you have the thing winding way up there in RPM and burning up bits it won't drill through thick hardwoods as well as I'd like it to.. Needs more power / torque at a slower speeds.. This could be just the cheap dremel nock off I have ( WEN )? maybe a actual Dremel brand has better power.. I can see the dremel being great for thin stock.. but I mostly always cutting 1/2 - 3/4 material all times.. and the thicker material if you're plunge base is sloppy at all will really show on the back side of thicker stock.. really hard to drill precise straight holes with that sloppy base.

Maybe you need to design it with a hole and attach them to the saw stand or? close to the saw where the chain is long enough to reach the saw blade without unhooking it.. maybe you won't loose it, LOL.. Me.. I'd still loose it forgetting it was attached to the saw stand,

I think you meant to quote @Rolf as he is the one that was talking about doing a presentation..

Nice idea.. My daughters boyfriend has a 3D printer.. very small desktop thing.. don't know what brand or anything about it but we talk a lot about files and design work as that is what he is in college for. Those Gcode files etc is the same thing my CNC and laser run off of.. There are many free designs on a site called " thingaverse " or something like that.. I'll go look it up.. There are designs on there that'd work for scroll sawing too.. Anyway, I wonder if I would keep these longer than the wood ones I made a couple years back.. I did different angles just by taking 2.5" blocks and getting the saw at the angle I needed and cut into the block. I then wrote with my wood burner pen the angle etc on it.. However I did some practice ones too so to get the angle 100% correct.. anyway forgot about then and thought I had put them in my tool drawer.. turns out I didn't and when cleaning the shop I tossed them into my campfire with other scraps.. BUT, needless to say I rarely ever angle my saw so it was never a big deal anyway.. I did these about 3 years ago because I was experimenting with inlay work and thought they'd be handy but never did any inlay since.. Edit: Here is the site I was talking about. https://www.thingiverse.com/

When they first started coming like this it was mentioned that it was a marking to know which end is top... However I've had blades that don't have it at all.. some that have it on both ends and some just on the top or bottom.. That is why I say there is not consistency to the over all length.. nor is there any specific reason for the pointed end if it's not consistent to the top or bottom of the blade.. Maybe the last few I've bought over the last 3 years was bad.. they cut great.. no issues there.. and no issues when using the Excalibur as you can position the blade in the clamps where ever you like so long as it reaches both the clamping screws on both top and bottom.. The Hawk is designed to bottom the blade out in the lower clamp.. then pull the upper arm down and bottom the blade out into the upper clamp.. once setting the tension for said blade it's good for all that style and size blade.. But very annoying when the blades are all different lengths.. as a longer blade is tensioned too loose and you end up breaking it.. too short a blade same thing.. so every blade has to adjust the saws tension..

Rolf, I posted these pictures a couple years back when I had a bad batch of Pegas #5 blades.. The bad batch had that notch about an inch down from the tip.. But look at the tip of the blade.. It's not clean cut and flat on the end.. It has a thinner portion that is kind of pointy... This is how my #3 Pegas blades have been for the past couple years.. Maybe the blades I've been buying are all old stock and they aren't messed up anymore like this.. But anyway.. that pointed extension is longer and shorter from one blade to the next and some blades don't have that at all.. In the Hawk as you know you bottom out the blade in the lower clamp.. then pull the upper arm down to it comes to the stop pin on the upper arm.. that sets your tension.. you adjust small amounts for smaller / bigger blades.. but you never should need to adjust every blade you put in the saw provided they are all the same size.. in my case I mostly use the #3 MG blade.. none of them for the past two years or more have been consistent in length.. I buy my blade 2-4 gross at a time.. so maybe just have some of those from a bad batch they ran a while back.. I complained to Bear wood a couple years ago about the #5 blades shown in this picture.. and they sent me a new batch which was better because that notch was gone.. but all the #3 blades have been this way that I've ordered over the last couple years.. Maybe they have this issue fixed now.. I haven't ordered since late spring / early summer of 2020 when I ordered 3 gross of the #3's and all those was this way too.. I've since run about out of Pegas blades and have been using up old batches of the FD-UR blades that I've had for years just trying to use them up.. It's tempting to just stick with the FD blades as this gets old having to either cut the end of every Pegas blade to make it work in the Hawk.. Been nice to run those FD blades lately as they have been consistent in length..

All blades cut straight if the person behind the saw is cutting straight If you're used to the Pegas you probably wont like many other blades.. I know my previous post sounds like I don't like them.. but I do.. they are my favorite blade.. Now if they could make them all the same length I'd be much happier about them.. Maybe I just need to get rid of these Hawk saws as they are the only saw that gives me trouble about the blade length, LOL I do love the way they cut.. But it's really annoying that they are different lengths many times.. when other blades are all consistent in length..

I can't agree more with your statement.. and it's just like the scroll saw.. buy cheap and work your way up or buy a high end large one to accommodate your every need... I have a Nextwave HD4 CNC 24 x 24 inch work area router with water cooled spindle.. I went big on my first CNC.. well there is bigger and better.. I went with the K40 laser because I wanted power to cut through at least 1/8" material.. But the size of the work area of the K40 limited to 8 x 12 inch. I already want to go bigger with this.. More power isn't really necessary for me with the K40 at this point anyway.. There was talk on a laser group I'm in and one guy says he bought a 20 Watt Diode laser and then got a K40.. the diode laser took 30+ minutes to engrave a drink coaster.. same design in the K40 was 3 minutes.. and they was talking about fiber lasers.. and that would take about 30 - 40 seconds.. But that fiber laser price tag for a cheap one is about $6000 and that is a very small work area.. like maybe 8 x 8 inch.. LOL So I say buy the biggest and most power one you can.. They are addictive just like the scroll saw.. Do your research and get something you can grow into.. I've only used my K40 about 15 hours.. already know I want a larger work area one..

Yeah I have that chart too somewhere.. I suppose it'd do better if I'd print it and have it in the shop and by my computer..LOL

Don't get me wrong, I like the blades.. and I've had very little issue with them in the Excalibur and minimal issues with the Hawk.. Biggest complaint from me is the inconsistent length.. I like the cutting better than the FD blades.. but I'm not sure I like it enough to have to keep trimming off the ends so they actually work in the Hawk saws..

Believe that is how they are made ( I think ).. I see that blunted one on my larger blades.. What gets me with these Pegas blades is they are never consistent.. (ie not every blade I use has that blunt ( I don't think ) and sometimes it's only a portion of the blade that way while other times the whole length is that way.. I don't get it.. BUT I never looked at them so closely either and it could be my old eyes messing with my brain, LOL. But that said.. they still are not consistent as in the length.. some have a pointy tip like they didn't get snipped correctly.. some don't have that and sometimes the longer snipped part is on the top of the blade while other times it's on the bottom of the blade.. at one time it was said they made them that way on purpose to distinguish the top / bottom of the blade but they need to make up their mind on which end is going to be marked and keep it that way.. Many folks may not notice this stuff because they run a saw that clamps the blade differently than the Hawk saw does.. most times I have to take a pair of side cutters and cut off a portion of the blade for it to fit into my saw.. had one the other day that was only 4" long instead of 5" LOL what the heck? While they all have always cut really well for me.. I do tend to break more of them in my Hawk than the Excalibur and also never break a FD blade in my Hawk so they aren't as strong of a blade they do stay sharp a long time for me.. I like them... but I'm also more impressed with the consistent FD blades.. Never had to fuss with cutting the blade to get the right length to work in my saw.. always know what the top of the blade is with the mark that they stamp on the FD blades.. I think I'm close to being done with Pegas blades.. I've mentioned it to Bob in the past and there was always a excuse reason for the inconsistency.. Great cutting blades but can live without them as FD blades are just about as good of cutting blade too.. and consistency matters.. at least to me it does.. Another peeve for me is.. hardly any sellers of the Pegas blades mention what the smallest drill hole should be to use for a said size blade.. Any selling site for FD I've been on list that size drill bit for the said blade size in the description.. While all of these are kind of petty things to some people.. I guess I just find it annoying to have to cut the blades to length to make them work in my saw.. The Hawk is designed to bottom the blade out in the blade holders / clamps and then adjust the saw tension and after that you have the correct / same tension every time you change a blade.. But when the blades are not consistent length that screws that all up.. and you never really get it right cutting the blades too. This is not an issue with saws like the Pegas, EX, Dewalt etc.. as you don't bottom out the blade in the holders..

Do a google search of the UPC numbers on the bar code that they use to scan at the register.. sometimes you get lucky and find other sources besides the dollar stores..

I see wood items from time to time in my local dollar tree.. Here is a link where I just searched "wood" and they have a ton of stuff I never seen in my local store.. I didn't go through all the pages but there's a lot of stuff.. https://www.dollartree.com/bulk/Wood

Cutting 1/8 BBply in the video.. but I have cut 1/4" Cherry and Oak ply as well.. 1/4" is about the max limit with my 40W laser.. The power output is different between laser types too so do you research on what you intend to do or use it for.. a 20W diode laser is less engrave / cut power than a CO2 laser.. then the same for fiber laser.. though I'm doubtful any hobbyist is going to buy a fiber laser.. LOL Not cheap. Lower powered ones can engrave but may not be able to cut.. time it takes will be different as well.. Just to do a logo maybe a branding iron is a cheaper option.. Guess you have to weigh out what you want to do with it. One could probably put a vent over the top of this like a exhaust range hood and vent it outside.. Not sure how much one of these cost.. I see used ones at restores and garage sales from time to time fairly cheap.. I would be reluctant to buy a new one as it may not have enough air flow to extract the smoke effectively. An enclosure would work well with a air flow exhausting out the smoke as well.. I want a larger frame laser like this.. and may buy this one.. however I can get a laser unit for my CNC and save room in my shop as opposed to buying a whole new unit to take up space..

Here is a small clip of me making some engraved ornaments.. Pay close attention to the smoke being exhausted out toward the white colored rectangle opening right at the top of the project. That is the built in exhaust on my K40 laser that has a hook-up for a 4" hose connector like a drier vent.. Right now I just have it set up by a window and open window and set the hose to blow out the window.. But I will soon be adding an actual vent system as some smoke can blow back in.. I set up the laser up in my upstairs loft of the garage and when I run it.. even with the exhaust going out the window I can smell the smoke downstairs etc. I now have air assist and some other upgrade goodies.. But at any rate.. I cannot imagine trying to run a open framed laser without some sort of exhaust.. no matter what I'm engraving / cutting. Here is the video,

Something similar might work well but I think hooking to a dust collector will just make the dust collector eventually stink and then even if you aren't running the laser the dust collector may smell up the shop like a campfire.. The best solution would be to vent it outside.. I guess my real point might be how much money would one have to spend to rig up a venting system.. might look into a better enclosed laser with more speed and power.. My K40 running is vented to the outside via a laundry drier vent type system that is sort of a built in system.. ( though weak powered fan that needs upgraded ).. It pours smoke out like a outside wood burner or a old coal powered train.. I can't imagine running something open framed like this if it smokes as much as mine does.. May not be bad just doing small names once in a while but a larger work area that this has I could see lasering photos and a lot of things where the machine might run a few hours on a project.. that's be some serious smoke in the shop. LOL

How does one deal with the smoke from these things? I don't really see a exhaust for it or since it's all open framed not really a way to exhaust the smoke.. Not a very healthy thing to breath in all the smoke from running one inside.. especially if working with acrylics.. I like the size of the machine as opposed to my K40 but I don't like that it's open framed and no exhaust.. I'd have customers complaining about my scroll work smelling like smoke if I did this in my shop area where I store my scrolled project inventory etc.. That would be a no for me on this unless there is a smoke extractor..