kmmcrafts

I think a lot would depend on where you're trying to sell at and also how are they packaged if they are.. All of my ornaments starting priced at $15.97 + shipping ( I sell online so shipping is a factor for me ).. I also package every ornament in a gift box.. so they're ready to give as a gift if the customer is purchasing it as a gift.. if not the box gives a bit more padding for packaging in the mail as the gift boxes are cotton filled too. Shipping is usually right around $4 - 5 for ground advantage.. so they're spending a total of around $20 some of my ornaments are double layered so they're priced closer to $18.97 + shipping and then adding any type of personalized or custom design is yet more money.. I sell a lot of them too and being priced higher like this allows me to be able to run a sale, or do bulk / wholesale orders which is really the larger part of my income.. The lowest I will sell a bulk order is $10 each.. for a pretty basic design..and goes up from there.. Selling at a craft show or farmers market.. I'd probably price things similar to the others saying $10 - 12 if there is no gift box etc.. I just think the gift boxes are a must have as then if the customer does purchase they have a box to easily carry with them rather than just handing them a ornament in a bag or something.. Everyone will have a different idea of price and many times it's based on experience and the market in their particular area..

I made some slide top ones years ago that I think may have been Steve Good's design.. basically just angle cut the top and two sides to glue onto the box so they fit snug but not too snug or too loose to allow for movement of the wood. I did a couple where the inside was hollowed out with just a forstner bit too. If I used the CNC the heart shape would be real easy to just cut the foam insert and make a perfect fit to the box.

Yeah the CNC could make a batch of them up if one wanted to go into production mode with a large batch.. I'm not sure I'll go that route yet.. maybe in the future but for me to just make a handful of them I think the scroll saw would be faster than the time it takes to set up the CNC.. CNC is great if you have something that you want to repeat cut ( production) but most 1-3 piece projects it's just easier an quicker for me to scroll saw them.. It's also slower partly because of how I have the CNC set up.. Lots of the guys will create jigs and stuff so they can repeat or easily set up a job.. I just haven't done that yet. Can make perfect inlays with the CNC though.. so long as you're working with some pretty stable wood.

That's a different type of hinge set up from what I've seen before.. I'm also looking at the different style of hinges.. The ones I seen yesterday while researching were just some round insert type thing.. not sure what those are called but that's sort of what I was thinking about using for hinges.. I have a lot of Walnut and Spalted Maple to use up as neither wood looks good for fretwork type scroll saw projects as the colors in the spalted maple take away the detail of fretwork cuts and dark walnut doesn't show fine details well from a distance so I'm looking for some projects to use up this wood.. Any suggestions for hinges or anything about making some ring boxes is welcome..

Thank you, I'll send a message shortly.

Beautiful work as always JT! After seeing RJ's reply I started searching and I did see some foam insert options.. I never thought of foam with felt over it until I started searching..

Thank you RJ, Now you make me feel guilty .. Now I'm going to have to make my wife a ring box and get a ring for her... no I was looking to make some ring boxes to sell.. but not looking to make a nice box with crappy pillow inserts.. I want them to be nice boxes..

I'm wanting to make a ring box.. the box part I know how to make but my question is.. how does one make the little pillows (I guess that's what they're called? ) that hold the ring in the box? I don't want to make a box and have the ring rolling around inside of it, LOL Any tips on making these and what material would work for that? My thoughts was some soft leather strips and somehow glue it and roll it or double sided tape? I don't really want to take a sewing class just to make the pillow things, LOL

I know I've had this in my possession at one time and it was years ago.. I'm not sure if it was in a magazine or one I purchased from a website.. Back around 2014 ish I had a external hard drive crash that I stored all my patterns on and I lost everything that was on it.. I had a few of my regularly used patterns on my computer so at least I had those. Lesson learned, back-up your files and then back them up again.. I now have another external drive that I back up my files to but also back up to 2 other computers and also onto a couple different thumb drives.. some are stored in the house and others are in the shop.. thumb drive in fireproof safe as well, LOL But if anyone knows where to get this pattern I'd love to have it again as I never did get the opportunity to actually make one.

This looks great.. great wood selection and cutting too.. job well done. I love cutting wedding / anniversary type things as it's nice to make a special gift for a special day.. I've always wanted this pattern but have never found where it's from... I'm pretty sure it's from one of the many magazines I have but maybe not because I've searched those a few times looking for this exact design..

Closer look at the photos shows paint around the edges of the I.D. tag.. clearly been painted and not a Hegner but I do believe this to be a Hegner stand and then painted saw and stand to match is my guess...

We have a list here on this site.. not sure how updated it is but there is a list of places to get patterns etc.. it's at the top under the "Resources" tab. Here is a link to the list but there are other resources under that tab besides pattern makers.. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/pattern-shops/

IF he's starting with green lumber then 1" is probably about right.. You'd be amazed at how much lumber shrinks when it dries out.. a 1" green lumber will likely be around 3/4 once dried.. also how it's dried makes a difference Kiln dried or stickered and air dried.... then depending on the type of sawmill ( circle saw or bandsaw) and the runout of the blade on said mill etc.. by the time you get it milled down so the board is smooth you may end up with 1/2 - 5/8 finished lumber.. Of course this depends on how green and what species of lumber you're working with.. in this case poplar does shrink quite a lot..

Yeah I seen the I.D. tag but wondered if it was actually for the saw or if someone pieced together some different saws and stands etc.. I had never seen this model saw like this so yeah I really wondered if someone put the tag on a Hegner for some weird reason, LOL The one JT posed looks like basically the same saw and I have seen one that looked like it before.. which is now making me wonder if they may have removed some of the covers.. as the one he posted has a cove to cover up the upper arm which then makes it not really look so much like a Hegner.

This says it's a Central Machinery but sure looks a lot like a Hegner to me.. Thoughts? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1278946467113428/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A5852bab3-2a62-4789-bc60-7a082ae2fa2f

Well I have read post in the past and that's all I'm going by for mentioning it.. All my saws run on the style you have to hold and as I said.. doesn't bother me.. I used to have one of the click on / click off styles and it made no difference to me which one to use.. Some folks that run these saws are older retired and handicap etc.. so maybe they have bad or weak legs.. I'm not judging them just stating that some have posted they have trouble with the press and hold style so take that into consideration when buying one. As for safety, when talking scroll saws and these foot switches.. If a scroll saw was that dangerous to use they'd have a switch more accessible or other safety device.. some saws the power switch is clear underneath the table somewhere.. Look at the Hawks.. the power switch clear off to the side.. so in that case either style footswitch is safer than having to reach clear off the the side or other inconvenient spot to power it off.. I like the foot switch because it allows me to have both hands on the fragile project while still being able to turn on the saw.. some saws have a slight delay when powering them on.. most of the newer ones that I've used do not anymore.. so the foot switch is just a nice feature to have but not really necessary I suppose.. is for me after having used a foot switch for 20+ years, LOL

I don't know if those HF saws come with a foot power on / off switch but that's another very nice upgrade to make the scrolling experience better as well.. Harbor Freight sell those too.. two styles of them one is push it to turn on and push again to stop.. other is press in and hold it to run the saw and let up to stop.. I've used both and like both.. Some don't like the press and hold to turn on as the foot / leg can get tired of holding it on long cuts..

My favorite one is from my old 1998 Hawk that came with the saw as well.. I have 3 of them from Menards ( very similar to the HF ones). I often wonder what the brand is for those Hawk ones but likely not made like that anymore as that was 30 years ago, LOL... The Menards ones I ended up changing to a LED bulb after the original bulbs got too tired to come on.. This is the bulb I used and am happy with it but it is on the bright side so some may not like it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/222261066257

Makes beautiful snowflake ornaments etc too.. back in my early scrolling / business days I made a lot of ornaments with it. That said it is very easily breakable too.. Now days I'd probably use it for boxes rather than fret type projects because it's not very strong wood.. at least that's how I remember it.. had many that got broken or fall apart after cutting.

I bought a cheapy WEN 12" drill press for a second one so I could leave the forestner bit in my Delta drill press for drilling the clock insert holes and not have to change set-ups all the time.. I was quite pleased to be able to chuck up the #56 - 60 bits that I regularly use with the chuck it came with.. My Delta I always had to use a smaller chuck for small bits and it would wobble if you don't chuck it up in a certain spot.. like Wichman said.. once you find that spot mark it with paint and it's not too bad... no issues with it on my WEN though so that was good investment for me.

I also have the older HF dust collector.. as also don't have it plumbed to anything and just take the hose over to the plainer or table saw.. The DeWalt planer and table saw both have a blower already on them and then adding the dust collector hose in conjunction they do really well on those two tools.. I don't care for the bag style filter that mine has.. and the price to upgrade that to the filter like this new one has I'd be farther ahead I think to sell the one I have and just buy this one.. I'm not doing nearly as much woodwork as I did in the past so not sure I'll ever do that.. Agree with JT about using a better set up for at a scroll saw.. the seyco system I have on my scroll saw is just "okay" not great but better than having nothing too. I do run a box fan with filter by the saw and also a air filtration system that hangs from the ceiling.. My worst dust producer these days is the sanders.. I've heard mediocre results from a downdraft type sanding table.. I'm not sure how well the Festool sanders do for the dust collection but they sure aren't cheap to try to find out either.. plus I have no vac system like the Festool anyway.. one can spend an awful lot of money on those tools.. I was considering buying them but now heading off to the laser direction more and more so not sure it's worth going that route at this point.. I need to plumb the collector over to my CNC.. that machine makes a big mess in a hurry.. kinda like the planner does without hooking up to the collector, LOL.. I bought a boot hook up for the CNC but haven't installed it and don't use it a whole lot so I guess that's why I haven't done it yet.

My brother built something similar to this and he says it works great.. his is just a homemade deal with box fan and a box with filters on all sides.. I've not seen it being used as he lives in another state but he claims it works really well.. If it weren't for the space this would take up I'd consider building one myself..

I posted about the new HF dust collector back late fall last year and I just run across this video of it that I thought others might be interested in.. Looks like a pretty nice machine..

I got some Beech from my brothers sawmill several years ago.. recently needed a piece for a project and I couldn't find any anywhere locally.. Is it somewhat more rare of a wood species? You mentioned it and I've only used a small amount over the years and like you say.. not many people mention it.. It is nice to work with.. I just don't see much of it here in Michigan.

That's pretty cool! Now you need to make some glow in the dark ghost for Halloween, LOL Somewhere I seen glow in the dark paints but cannot remember where.. where did you find it at?