kmmcrafts

What sizes are you getting at Lowes? and is it in stock or do you have to order it? I mostly use 1/8 and it's seems much harder to find 1/8" good on two sides.. I can get 1/4" in stock at a lot of local places and cheaper than both Lowes or Menards.. I don't have a Home Depot real close and they don't even stock the stuff I do get from them, however it is free shipping so it works out to be fairly priced.. Last time I looked which has been a while.. both Lowes and Menards charge delivery and I don't think they offer to ship to home.. They just have a bunch of independent truckers that deliver but it's freight charge. Or pick up in store is a option.

Yeah it's customs for sure. They sent me a UPS tracking number within the next day and later the same day UPS said they had the package in their possession.. about 3 days and it was scanned into the sorting warehouse in New York.. it gets scanned twice a day ever since.. once in the morning and once at night saying still in warehouse.. They've had the package in NY since the 8th of September. They don't seem to scan anything over the weekends so maybe this week it'll move out of the warehouse. NY being not too far from MI I usually get my orders within 2 days.. or if I'm sending something they get it in 2 days over in NY area. So once it moves it should go pretty quickly..

Hmm, Still sitting in the warehouse in NY... I don't understand it but any time I order from any Canadian place it takes me 4 - 6 weeks to get it.. I won't be ordering more of this from these guys.. Shame too because there are several places I would order supplies from that are in Canada

Good to see you're back at it again. I too have been away from the scroll saw for dang near 2 years because of some health reasons but now I'm able to get back into it however, because I was down for a long time my shop has been the catch all for anything the kids and wife don't want.. I can barely move in there and so I'm about to get me a dumpster or something.. So bad I don't even know where to start, LOL While my scroll saw work area and laser work area isn't too bad if I had boards already sized but if I need to use the planer, chop saw or basically anything other than the scroll saw it'd be a half days work just to size a board.. My CNC router has so much junk on the table I can barely see the machine, LOL.. Sorry I guess I turned that into a rant.. I just came in from the shop and was going to do some scrolling.. open the door and looked around shook my head and said to myself.. NOPE.. not today.. came back inside and checked in on here and seen this topic,

I can see where this can be useful and have done it many times on the bandsaw... and I guess it's way safer than not taping it to a board and using the table saw with your hands or push stick on that tiny piece.. I'm just saying there are many safer ways to achieve the same end result.. no bandsaw? cool try a jigsaw or Sawzall.. heck, tape it to the board and use a hand plane, sander or grinder, lol.. lots of ways to achieve the same thing. There were times I needed to bring the thickness of a very small piece from 3/8 down to 1/4 and I just used my belt sander.. goes pretty quick with a 36 grit belt on it.. While I understand you're a experienced woodworker and I see you mentioned you weren't stupid to stand in the line of fire should that tape fail and shoot the piece back at you.. You knew what you were doing.. some people do not have any common sense and lack any fear of running machines.. they may see this post and give this a try because it seemed like a great idea and end up in the ER. I'm not a experience woodworker as far as running table saws.. and that is probably a good thing that I'm a little scared to use it for certain things.. maybe scared is the wrong word.. maybe I should say I'm scared enough to be extra cautious of what I'm doing when I do run it.. because I'm not really scared to use it.. I'm just not too comfortable running it when there are other ways to get a job done in a safe way. Wood is cheap compared to a ER visit.. I do the best I can to use up all the small bits I save and have laying around but there comes a time where that just isn't worth the price.. Plus saving some of those bits and pieces makes for a nice campfire and a tasty roasted marshmallow or smore.. and that is way more fun that the ER waiting room in my opinion..

Much braver than I, LOL.. Of coarse I don't even like to use my table saw if I don't have to.. If I can do the job on my bandsaw or other tool even if it takes longer I do it.. Guess I'm a little scared of the table saw and probably for good reason as a school mate had a kickback in shop class in high school that scared the crap out of me because the board just missed me and almost made me get hurt while I had my back to him using a router.. never got over that I guess.. luckily nobody was hurt or anything other than just scared.

Hmm, I guess I don't have any other suggestions.. I suppose it could be a bad bearing or something.. Did you loosen the motor and try adjusting it after making the arm level to the tabletop like I mentioned in my last comment? You could try holding both arms, well hold one and wiggle the other to try to see how much slack is in the bearings but I don't know how to describe how much is too much etc. as they all, even brand new have a slight amount. Only other thing I can suggest is maybe you'll have to call Ray or I think Mike is the name of his son at Seyco as they know these saws inside and out. I think they have the phone number on their website. Seyco.com Good luck and let us know if you figure something out.

I'm not sure if this is the problem but I would start off by measuring the distance from the bottom of the upper arm to the saws table top, it should be the same distance from both back to the front... if it's not then adjust the knob on the top at the back of the saw until you get it parallel to the table.. Then I would loosen the bolts on the motor just enough to be able to turn it in the slots.. turn the saw speed all the way down and run it while turning the motor ( with blade installed and tensioned ) and see if it quiets down.. You can place a small machinist square or something with a straight edge on the back side of your blade while doing this and you'll visibly see changes in the forward / rearward movement of the saw blade while turning the motor in the slots. Try adjusting the motor so you have minimal movement in the blade. You may need to remove the motor bolts and move them to different slots to get more adjustment. I suspect the motor alignment is off but you need to also have the table parallel to the upper arm first. I also suspect you're going to need to remove the motor bolts to other slots to get enough rotation to get it adjusted if this is the issue, in fact. you may need to do that a couple times if it's that far out of whack to be hitting the bottom of the table.. I been there once that's how I know this. LOL Let us know if this makes it better.

I wondered about that color as well as the older Chevy engine paint might be close. Was going to try that but thought maybe someone knew of a color so I don't have to guess at it, LOL.. If it's not a very close match I might just paint the saw too since there isn't much too the saw. That stand might take a couple cans as there are so many angles to get a good coverage on. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion..

Yeah that had crossed my mind too but I wasn't really wanting to spend $40 for a high end single stage paint when a $10 spray can would hold up fine on a scroll saw stand being inside and out of the sun etc..

I agree it's not going to really add much if any value but it can make for a easier sale.. When ever I was looking at used Hegners before I got this one I personally didn't have much interest in the ones that looked rough, especially when asking price is at the higher end. I wouldn't even have looked at the one I got if they hadn't had it priced at $50 and almost passed on it but the guy gave it to me so who could refuse that.. LOL There are many of these like this because they must have some sort of paint peeling issue.. Rarely see a Hawk or most any other saw brand like these Hegners.. heck even the cheap entre level saws have better paint. So anyway, I figured I got it running good and cleaned up other than the stand looks bad and figured it's worth $10 can of paint to clean it up even more.. I'm sure there are more people that feel the same as me when searching to buy a saw.. who wants to buy a saw that looks like it had fell off a truck going down the highway, LOL.. especially when asking top prices.. so I guess I do feel it would add some value.

Any of you Hegner owners repaint your crappy looking stand? Saw looks pretty good but as most of these you see on Marketplace the stand always looks as though it had fallen off a mountain or dragged behind a car for 30 miles, LOL I'm wanting to clean up my saw as it looks terrible and might add some value or make it easier to sell when that time comes.. I do need to sell a couple of my saws but which ones I'm unsure at the moment.. and may list all of them and the first couple that sells might be the decision maker for me, LOL Anyway, anyone know of a spray paint that is a very close match? I didn't see any touch-up paint on their website but maybe I missed it. I know there is a guy on FB that rebuilds these but I can't seem to send him a message.. maybe either he doesn't accept messages or something in my FB setting not allowing me to send a message.. Either way, if anyone knows of a paint brand and name / number that is a close match.. Maybe rather than trying to match old paint I'll just paint the stand black or something.. but would like it to look like they did from the manufacture..

If I like the plywood offered by KJP I'm not certain it'll be a good source until I find this same stuff in the USA.. or I order well in advance.. My order has been in the USA now for over 10 days sitting in a customs sorting facility.. No movement at all.. just scanned everyday showing it is still there.. Then I wonder if I'll be required to pay additional tax before they'll deliver it. It's terrible to have things shipped in from Canada who is supposed to be our friends yet I can order supplies from China and most anywhere in the world and get them within a few days which has never made sense to me. Anyway, placed my order on the 2nd and it was shipped out same day and arrived to a UPS facility in NY on the 5th.. and still there today the 17th..

If you don't mind sharing your YouTube channel drop a link to it.. I'm always interested in construction type channels. Maybe I'll learn something from your channel.

Makes me wonder if your circuit board issue is somehow related to the ground issue you had back in May where the plug wasn't grounded and your saw table was charged and shocking you.. Normally there's not a lot of board issues with these saws but I have seen a few, but we never know the situation to those few either.. could be another grounding issue or improper cords etc..

I'm not a fan of stains but I might be biased because I can never get plywood to take a "good stain job" and I also look at stained pieces and to me they look fake just like they are. Don't get me wrong as I have seen some beautiful work that was stained and or painted.. Dave Monk does wonderful work as does FrankEV and probably many others but I see a lot of stuff that just makes me cringe at because the project would look so much better had they not went the stained route.. I also understand that some projects do better being made from a more stable wood so as the others said.. might depend on the project at hand. I vote for solid lumber if it's doable. Also gluing layers with stained plywood or painted the glue doesn't like to hold together as well on those surfaces unless you use some sort of epoxy or something.. maybe strength isn't a issue here?

Yeah, I recovered most stuff but it was recovered from about 5 weeks ago so the more recent researching I did and bookmarks I had saved were gone unfortunately.

I forgot about Rockler.. how could I do that, I've ordered a lot of stuff from them in the past.. another I forgot about is woodcraft store.. there's a woodcraft not too far from me too... hmm, I guess I better do some checking on these.

Yes they will, I asked about it a few years ago.. at that time it wasn't cheap and I still don't know the quality of the ply.. Hate to do a bulk order on something I don't like or don't know if I'll like it.. Laser work is quite popular in our state and many of them mention LL Johnson so maybe they offer it now.. BTW the wood expo is tomorrow and Saturday and they have awesome deals on lumber so it's a great time to go buy your lumber and plywood needs.. or new tool deals.. they do demonstrations and a lot of big stuff going on.. I haven't been there in 2 years because of some health things I had going on.. I've sent my wife to go pick up some BBply for me so I can try to keep working. I'm feeling pretty darn good now.. might be able to go get me some deals on plywood.. could use some Cherry lumber but otherwise I'm stocked to the hilt on most anything else that I normally use. If you go I wouldn't get any walnut as I'll hook you up with that hopefully in a couple weeks.. Daughters wedding is another week away and after that I might actually have time ( maybe not energy after all this wedding prep ) to start digging the stuff out of the rafters.

I had a whole list of different places to check out plywood from and one had just opened a brand new location right here in Michigan not too far away.. almost seems like it was KJP Hardwoods.. My computer crashed and I lost my bookmarked sites that I had done research on and was going to check out. Yeah KJP Hardwoods has some more options and I also placed an order from them last night of the sample pack of craft plywood. They also offer larger sheets and free shipping on orders over $185? or something around that price.. IF I order I always liked ordering bulk so the shipping might be expensive for them.. they'll need a semi truck, LOL.. Anyway.. will see how their sample pack is.. says it's usually good on both sides but back side could have small blemishes.. at least it's the same species on the back.. Pretty easy to find good plywood on both sides for 1/4" thick material but 1/8" seems to be hard to find.

I've always been on the lookout for plywood suppliers that sell thin (1/8" ) plywood in other species than just Birch, that is good on both sides.. Always been impressed with the quality of the project panels from Home Depot, however they're only 1 side good... which is okay for many projects but I sometimes have a need for good 2 sides.. I'm not sure where one would find good 2 sides even if the back was not a A or 1.. probably a B or 2 back side would be fine.. but like the Walnut from H.D. has some light colored wood for the back.. maybe looks like birch.. I run across a site that claims to be good both sides and guaranteed to be flat so I ordered some a few days ago and just received my order which is nice because estimated not to be here until Thursday.. so I'm impressed with the fast shipping. The plywood is prefinished which is another thing that I like.. open the box and it looks like decent plywood for sure however the Walnut appears to be maybe stained maple or some other stained wood.. looks great anyway but me being a woodworker I know the difference so to me is a turn off.. To be fair they did not claim it to be walnut and it is mentioned it's "colored"...so I knew this before purchasing.. tell tail is the good 2 sides prefinished is cheaper than the H.D. single side stuff, LOL.. Well worth the money.. I've seen it being highly recommended among the laser forums so I was going to buy a couple sheets of each species to see how it was. Guaranteed to be flat.. the name is called TruFlat.. certainly was not 100% flat when I open the box.. looks like the box was setting on a smaller box as the bottom few sheets were bowed in the middle.. Flat plywood is a big concern for a laser machines as the curve will make the laser beam out of focus if it's closer or farther from the laser head. While this is bowed it's not a deal breaker for me because I'm able to use it with clamps etc.. just the idea of them claiming it is guaranteed to be flat and stay flat.. maybe it'll flatten out after setting in the shop for a while.. as it was just delivered about 40 minutes ago, LOL Anyway, thought I'd share my experience with the plywood as it may be of some interest here in the scrolling community. Back when I was scrolling a lot or portrait style cuttings etc.. I always wanted some other species of thin plywood to work with as for some project the BBply is / was just too bland sometimes. I think the TruFlat plywood is sold by a few different companies but I ordered from MakerFlow and was shipped from Arizona.. I ordered on Friday and got it today ( Tuesday ) and that was over the Labor day weekend so very timely shipped. Ideally I'd like to find 1/8" stuff like this locally where I could pick up a full or half sheet.. my laser can run a 24 x 30 piece of plywood and some of the projects require larger than the 12 x 19 that is so common. Shipping cost for those larger pieces kills any great deal on the wood.. so local is probably my only option for the larger sheets. MakerFlow

I've always bought my parts from Seyco because they seem to have most of them on their website and usually they have them right in stock and ready to ship out. Other sources have always had to order the part in or ship direct to you which I don't like.. https://seyco.com/product/ex21-a06-power-switch/ Good luck..

Who says the puzzle has to be square and smooth edges? Back in the beginning of my scrolling days I cut everything on the scroll saw.. if you can't cut a nice straight edge then make them scalloped edges.. I mean yeah I get it for the dollar bill puzzle and certain other times but just a photo you can make the edges anyway you want / need. Once the plywood has absorbed moisture putting it in a oven to evaporate the moisture will not fix the lifted swollen wood fibers.. I think sanding is about the only best option from that point and as I said.. no need for a expensive power sander.. Something like a few different grits of these is what I did for a lot of years.. https://www.harborfreight.com/aluminum-oxide-sanding-sponges-coarse-grade-10-pack-63918.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=22877870283&campaignid=22877870283&utm_content=186422612369&adsetid=186422612369&product=63918&store=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22877870283&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4eUxG6KRQwIaxIXVdKxfFz-G&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_L_FBhDmARIsAItqgt5Z185CJDt0hvSVBDDDx_Vf8aZG2GtSbb7PKC2Xtp3F8TNda8JxpvYaAgCYEALw_wcB

I'm not certain about the sanding before gluing the puzzle.. when I did a few puzzles about 15 years ago I did sand the plywood first so there was a good smooth surface to glue to and to make the surface of the puzzle nice and smooth too. I suggest to sand first but is it really needed? I don't know... some might depend on the quality of the Baltic Birch.. I've bought it and had real smooth surface and I've also gotten it where it had some rougher sort of raised grain.. which may mean it was a older piece that had sat out and absorbed some of the humidity out of the air.. I say that because I started purchasing it in larger bulk quantity several years ago for cheaper prices and the older stuff does start getting a rougher surface over time.. so you may want to have a random orbital sander or some type of sander to smooth them out when / if needed.. Though you could just buy sandpaper and use hand sanding too as it doesn't usually take a lot of sanding to get it smoothed out good. There are different methods I've seen over the years of being on these message boards for attaching the picture.. I used regular wood glue and spread very thin even layer with a business card the lay the photo down and them used a roller to press it down good. I then always top coated with triple thick clear glaze https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-I00500A07-Krylon-Triple-Thick-Crystal-Clear-Glaze-Clear-High-Gloss-12-oz-Spray-Paint-Multi-Surface-1-Piece-1-Pack/22301320 Then I'd cut the next day with the Flying Dutchman Puzzle blades.. never needed sanding as JT said. I also seen where people will use the 3M 77 spray adhesive and spray the back of the photo and the plywood and they say it works well.. I've never done that method myself. It'll take a lot of blades per puzzle as the glues in the plywood really dull blades quickly so when getting blades be sure to get more than you think you'll need, LOL. Pure Bond Project Panels from Home Depot seem to be a bit easier cutting and not quite as harsh on blades.. is another thing I've read.. I've used them some but not really for puzzles so might be something you could look into though a bit more pricey depending on where you get your Baltic Birch as I said I buy full sheets in quantity so it's quite a lot cheaper than mail ordering like a lot of people do.

Welcome to the Village!! I'm not much of a puzzle maker but the few I did make I did all my sanding before cutting. After cutting if you have some fuzzies on the back you can take a small propane torch and carefully burn them off holding the torch way back and slowly moving closer while also continuing to move it around so not to keep the heat in one spot too long.. takes a bit of practice bu you'll get it if you take it slow and hold it far away while gradually moving closer. I suppose you could use the sander method too, but I'd be worried to mess up the face side of the puzzle cause from vibration etc. from the sander. Maybe someone else will chime in on this topic that is more experienced with puzzles since I've only made a handful of them over the years.